Ok
We put the car back together after repainting the engine bay and now the car won't start not even trying to start. I have the fast b2b wide band ECM and we didn't have my laptop with us but we were able to determine spark is good and fuel sytem is working fine and the computer is telling the fuel pump to turn on but we pulled one of the injector plugs of and there is power to the injector but the FAST computer is not grounding the injectors so no pulsing. I will be going back out to hook my laptop up and see if It can tell me anything. I made no changes and have been running the car for 2 years. One note is I did have a bad ground wire of the msd 6a box that was not grounding due to new paint. My electric guy seems to think the bad ground may have back fed into the fast box and burnt out the injector drivers and thats why the computer won't ground out the injectors and let them work. Electronic are not my area so I'am relaing what my mechanic and I found today and he is very good but never messed with anything but factory computers. We also pulled a plug after cranking and its bone dry. Any thoughts would be helpfull

 

I hooked up my laptop. Everything is working fine. Does the ignition module on the distributor control the injectors? My mechanic seems to think the ignition module controls the spark and the fuel injectors. Could it be a bad ignition module?
Is there something I can look at while I'am cranking the car to see what the injectors are doing. All I know for sure is the computer is not grounding out the injectors at the connector to the injectors itself and so the injectors are not opening up and spraying fuel, hence no start.

 

The ignition module sends info to the computer telling it how far & fast the engine is rotating. The computer then adjusts the timing and the fuel injector on time. Your mechanic is correct.

Inside the computer is a little electronic switch that closes and connects the injector ground to a real engine ground. The computer should have multiple ground wires. Make sure the fuel injector ground wire that bolts to the engine chasis from the computer has a good connection. If it doesn't, when the computer closes the swtich to ground the injectors it will not have a complete path to engine/chasis ground.

If you want to see what the injector ground is doing at the injectors then connect a voltmeter red lead to the injector ground and the black lead to a good chasis ground. When the injectors are closed the voltmeter will read 13 volts (battery voltage). When the injectors are open it will read about 0 volts or a little higher. When you crank the engine the voltage will drop less than battery voltage but not to 0 volts because it is turning the injectors on and off real fast so the voltmeter reading is sort of an avarage voltage.

Check the computer injector ground and/or check for broken wire and broken injector ground wire going two the injectors.

Very important, make sure you have a good engine to chasis ground wire. It may be that this wire was not re-connected. It happens fairly often after engine mod/swaps.

 

Ok very helpfull I will go over the grounds again. I talked with fast today and the relay on the FAST harness he said may be shot it controls the injectors and 02 sensor. He also said make sure your grounds are all working. He also said check your rpm signal under cranking and all rpm on the dashboard reads 0 under cranking?

 

The FAST info all sounds good. Another quick & dirty way to check the injectors are opening is to use an automotive stethescope(sp??). Put the probe on the injector. It will be making a loud click if they are opening/closing. Ford injectors are really loud.

 

we checked them there not opening. I just spoke witha guy on turbobuick and he said no rpm signal means there is a problem with the HEI and so the hei is not turning the injectors on to pulse

 

That is correct. What FAST told you to do/check will verify the HEI.

 

I am curious. Was it the HEI having a problem or an ECM ground?

 

Fixed it
One of the 4 wires that goes to the ignition module came apart probably got pulled on when I was preping engine bay.
So I fixed it and car runs fine almost. After a day of running the car no issues I drive it down the road and it dies suddenly like some one pulled the plug. Well sure enough I have no fuel or rpm signal from my FAST. Well it is either another bad wire in the 4 point connector to the ignition module or a bad ignition module or a bad distributor. Well wiring is fine and I have a extra accel ICM and its ok so I guess I will pull the distributor and replace it its the only thing left. It seems like maybe the pick up coil went bad I just seem to be having bad luck car was fixed and ran great for 2 days. My MSD 6a box also took a dump last week

 

You might have pulled the wires to much going into the HEI module to cause the problem.

I have heard that the MSD 6A box quality has gone down and a few people have had problems with them. My next ignition module will be a Crane unit. Check out the Power Adder board for the ignition module info.

 

Well I demolished the timing chain and timing gear into 4 pieces.

 

I had a very similar problem with the injectors with my holley commander 950 pro. It just died out and wouldn't start. It was getting power to the injectors but they were not opening. turned out the fuse was corroded and the amount of current needed to actually OPEN the injectors was not flowing.

 

I have never seem a gear come apart. What was the manufacturer? How many miles. That sucks. I hope it shut down early enough before stuff made its way to the rest of the engine.

 

Its a stock l98. I think I may have bent some valves so it looks like its time for a forged motor

 

Wow, it sounds awful, to go from one problem to another that quickly. Sorry to hear about the timing chain. Time to pull the heads and upgrade them, eh?