Alright, I have EBL Flash and ive been using the proper BIN and doing VE learn. I have tunerpro and see how I can change the different settings on the BIN file.

But im almost positive this has been posted somewhere, but I cant seem to find it.

Based on the mods I have [in sig] can you guys tell me what setting I should change and too what?

Also seeing the mods I plan on getting [also in sig] could you guys tell me something that will work with them when I get them done so I can drive it straight from the shop and further tune it with datalogging on the EBL.

I know this is prolly an annoying question that has been asked before. But I would really like to know, especially for when I get the new cam, heads and throttle body so I dont damage anything with a heavy foot.

Thanks guys.

 

EBL comes with the .bin that coinsidentally is the stock .bin for your car. How does it run on that EBL.bin? Did you do a VE learn? That will create a EBL_new.bin. You should see the fueling changes that it created in VELearn.

 

It ran very rich when I first loaded it. Its running better now after 8 VE learns.

I dont have a WB sensor, so I cant really tune the upper RPM's...... thats the settings I would need the most. Im almost certain someone has to have posted them somewhere on this site or online. Just cant seem to find them.

 

First item to be be sure that the distributor base timing matches that of the BIN's Initial SA setting. Can change either or both but they need to match.

Then for your current setup the VE Learns is the next to do. Which you have done. You can now play a little with the timing along with checking/setting the VE tables for high RPM/hgh load operation.

Now, for the upgrades:

For changes before you even turn the key, it will depend upon the BBC TBI unit. If the injectors are larger then the BPC vs VAC table needs to be changed. With those values close you should be able to drive the vehicle. Then do some VE Learns right off to get the fueling closer.

With those heads & cam the timing requirements will also change. The EBL_F_1001 BIN is for a vehicle with the ZZ4 heads. The cam has a tight LSA at 108 deg. You can try the Main & Extended SA tables from that BIN and see how they are.

For WOT AFR: 12.8:1 is safe for the engine. If running a cat then need to douse it with some 11.5 AFR at mid RPM. Can then increase the AFR to 12.8 as you reach redline on the engine. Change these values in the PE/WOT vs RPM AFR table. Then change the VE table so that the commanded AFR matches the WB reported AFR.

RBob.

 

I have been watching this thread, and trying to learn from it. One thing I dont understand, is, what exactly does the "VE learn" do? I understand that it reads the datalog, and writes a new .bin for you, but what settings does it actually change?

And Tim, maybe since you have the 180* t-stat, have you tried tweaking the fan-on temps, the warm-up routine, idle speed, and closed-loop temperature? I have a 180 in my car, and those are some of the things that kinda mess with the stock ECM.

 

Thanks Rbob, whenever the car goes to the shop to get that stuff done ill let you know exactly which injectors I went with and stuff.


And slow_90firebird, fan is always on [its been wired up that way] havent messed with any of those settings.

VE Learn as far as I understand it is the efficiency that your engine burns the fuel/air. But im prolly wrong and Rbob will correct me, lol.

 

Well the reason I ask, is because I was wondering if the VE learn was a way, that you could get the ECM to basically self adapt to changes and become drivable, after a decent size cam swap or head swap or something.

My buddie had a cam with .500ish lift, tight LSA, aluminum heads, SLP base and runners, and exhaust all on his TPI motor. He was able to do all that work, and within like 2 days of driving, the stock ECM had completely "learned" for all the changes. I wish we could do that with TBI, but we dont have a MAF sensor.

 

Ah, im not to sure man. Im more of a newb then you are, hah hah.

But you should go grab the EBL flash, easy install, takes literally 15min to put it in your car, load the proper BIN and start VE learning. Well unless ya dont got a laptop.

But I wonder if when you unplug the battery if the EBL Flash keeps its settings?

 

Yeah, well I already know where the computer goes. I had it fall out on me once when I took that hush panel off.

I really dont need the EBL yet, because I have absolutely no engine mods. When I start modding, and I get a VAFPR, I will have to pick one up.

The main reason I really want to get good at tuning, is so that I can do mods, and keep the excellent gas milage I have on the highway. I would really lean out the cruise, and all that, then throw a ton of fuel into PE and AE.

Did you notice any difference in drivability just going from stock to the EBL? I read on the site, that it is supposed to be better in a few ways

 

What is VAFPR? lol

My gas mileage isent so good. EBL tells me on most of my trips im only getting 13 to 14mpg combined. Highway cruising I get around 20-21 though. Pedal to the floor gives me 4mpg.

With the EBL in and tuned somewhat, I cant really notice anything. Its just one of those small things. Its when things start adding up that you notice a difference, ya know. Like intake + thermostat + exhaust + computer. Then you start feeling a difference.

 

VAFPR is vacuum adjustable fuel pressure regulator. It allows you to adjust the fuel pressure the injectors get, with a turn of a screw. Also, allows you to connect it to manifold vacuum, and the less vacuum it gets (ie more throttle) it applies slightly more fuel pressure, so that you can remain leaner during cruise, but still get nice fuel for WOT and high load. I am sure RBob would be able to recommend if it would be a good thing for you to get or not. I really like this setup:
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/general-discussion/performance/117719-external-afpr-added-tbi-pics.html

I think maybe you need to start playing with the TunerPro a little more, after you finish doing those VE learns. That way, you will be able to get some definate changes. Does the ELB let you see your current A/F ratio at all? Or do you need the WB02 for that feature? Because if you can lean out your cruise mixture, but keep the PA and AE and WOT mixtures nice and fat, you should notice better gas milage.

Another thing is, does the EBL let you see current Knock counts, and degrees of KR you are getting? You can use data like that, while running 87 octane gas, to find the most advance you can run before hitting KR which is bad.

One of the things I would personally change if I got an EBL would be the idle stuff. First off, I hate the warm-up routine. I just want to turn the key, and get a nice 500RPM idle like my buddies carb'd car. Another thing I hate, is the way the IAC hops up the idle while you are rolling. Its nice sometimes, but I hate pressing the clutch in at like 5mph and having the RPM's shoot back up. I think, I would keep the IAC tables basically sotck, except below 10mph, where I would set them to 500RPM. Finally, I would change the fan-on temp to 195* and change the closed-loop temp to ~140*. That way I could run a 160 T-stat and not worry about driving around in open loop.

But thats all just what I would do. You have an automatic, so you can be more lazy in some places. Does the EBL let you increase the shift points, and tranny line pressure? That would be a nice difference you can feel - my buddy tuned the computer in his pickup and it made break-neck shifts that would take the front wheels of the ground!

 

All very good questions and I hope Rbob answers them.

All i know is yeh it keeps track of your knocks.

But yeh maybe I should change how it loops.... because when its real cold it was acting a bit weird. But its getting warmer outside so i wont have to worry about that til next winter.

If I could change where it shifts that would be great! Once I start building it up maybe have it rev a little higher til it shifted at WOT

 

Make sure that the MPG injector flow value has been set in the BIN. You may need to tweak it a little from there. I tell folks to check the Trip MPG against the pumps to double check that it is correct.

RBob.

 

To really take advantage of a VRFPR the WOT fuel pressure needs to be over 18 psi. This is so the fuel pressure doesn't drop too low during high vacuum conditions. The reason the VRFPR works so well is that at cruise with the lower fuel pressure the injector PW is larger. This provides for better fuel distribution.

The commanded AFR is shown in the EBL data logs. To see the actual AFR a WB unit is required. That value is displayed right on the main What's Up Display (WUD) screen and on some of the other screens. It is also inlcuded in the performace and diagnostic graphs.

Sure does. Check out the WUD screen shots on the web site. The Knock screen shows where, how often, how much retard is occuring. The RPM/MAP display matrix matches the RPM/MAP matrix of the SA table. Makes it easy to match up where to change the timing.


The EBL has MUCH better IAC routines over the stock GM stuff. And you can set them up however it works best for your vehicle.

The stock ECM doesn't control the cooling fan. It is controlled by the A/C and the temperature switch in the passenger side head.

You can have the EBL control the fan by wiring the fan relay to the ECM.

The 700R4 is hydro-mechanically shifted. The only thing that the ECM controls is the TCC lockup.

RBob.

 

Oh, I must still be thinking too much OBD2 in my head. My last car was FWD with the 4t60e hydramatic, and between putting spacers inside the accumulator springs, and using the PCM to change the line pressure and shift points, you could get the 3.1 to spin second and chirp third!

Thats pretty cool about the other stuff it does. Good luck tim, I cant wait to get some mods, and order one of these things up in the next year!

 

Quote: I dont have a WB sensor, so I cant really tune the upper RPM's...... thats the settings I would need the most. Im almost certain someone has to have posted them somewhere on this site or online. Just cant seem to find them.

I did not either when I put car on dyno. Underlying VE tables were apparently OK so my commanded 12.5 for PE turned out to be 12.1/1 on dyno WB. I was understandably nervous about the resulting WOT tune. I understand the PE is a calculation done by the ECU off the VE tables- BPC etc. Godd info in-good PE A/F results.