I've been watching the boards for sometime now and they have been a lot of help. Now I have my own problems. I just recently obtained an 89 RS camaro where the check engine light has been out and after replacing the bulb I ran the codes (gotta love paper clips). 13 o2 sensor, 15 coolant temp sensor, 32 EGR, 33 MAP sensor, and 54 Fuel Pump circ low voltage is what I got. I'm not sure where to start in fixing these. Currently it idles rough then tries to die, the temp guage isn't moving, slight miss in high RPMs, and is running rich as heck... among a few other things. A tune up is due for it but i was hoping to get the engine light out before I did that. All I can plan on doing now is a full tune up once everything is fixed and saving the EGR for last. Any advice? (where to start, what to look for, Common problems associated with the codes, Best parts to replace with, ect...)

Thanks

 

Welcome to TGO Ranscod

I would start with getting a DVM - any basic (low cost unit) will do the job.

Fixing her-up
1) Usual suspects first - ignition system (check or replace), fuel filter, etc.

2) Start by measuring operational voltages first. Code 54 is the one I would look at first. This might be due to a bad FP relay. I am guessing that it takes more than a few engine turns for your engine to start when cold. If this is the case then oil pressure switch is providing the only current connection to the fuel pump! Corroded FP relay socket contacts, hacked harness are another possibility.

3) Code 15 CTS - this one is very common. CTS fail due to age - usually resulting in very rich condition (open circuit = very low temperature). Use search to find operational values (either ohms or voltage). Open ground is another possibility (black wire).

4) Code 33 MAP - MAP sensors biggest enemy is moisture. Verify that PIN A is ground and PIN C is +5 volts. At idle (stock engine, idle vacuum around 16-18 in-Hg) you should see 1.5 to 2.0 Vdc on pin B. Use search for more details.

5) Code 32 EGR This is one is a PITA - fix 1-4 before chasing this one.

6) Code 13 O2 sensor = low O2 sensor voltage or open O2 sensor circuit. Code 13 is common for single wire O2 sensors installed in headers. O2 sensors need heat (about 600F) to provide operational voltage. Post your exhaust configuration for further discussion.

//RF

 

The exhaust from what I can see is basically an assortment of pieces and parts running straight to the muffler and tail pipes. There is no cat and from what I see no o2 sensor under the car.
I noticed today when I got home that my fuel pump was running and all I had to do to shut it off was a quick start (Took a few turns for it to start) let it run for a little while then shut the engine off.
There appears to be a hacked harness. I looked through the engine and found a few wires that were spliced in. They bypassed the fan relay and ran under the dash to a manual switch. As for the Fuel pump relay I didn't see anything that was evident of hacking around the wiring for it. I haven't had the chance to get any further because the rain started coming down but from what I've seen with the relays on the car most of them are probably bad. The hatch motor relay was shot and so is the electric fan relay.

 

1) Stock O2 sensor is mounted in driver side exhaust manifold just above oil filter flange. It should have a single purple wire.

2) What you have is a classic hillbilly troubleshooting - solution for basic electrical issues. Before you can go any further I would strongly suggest getting the following:
a) EFI wiring diagram for your car - there are couple of them available on line. Let Google do the work.
b) Harness assessment state. Make a list of hillbilly hacks.
c) Cooling fan override. This is a common hack due to thermal switch failure that controls fan relay.

3) Verify POST - ignition key from off into run position - SES light should turn on solid, blink off, turn solid. During this time Fuel pump should turn on for about 2-3 seconds and then shut off.

Post your findings, take pictures -

//RF