servo2055chevy

how do i reset the timing on an 83 crossfire tbi, its all electroically controlled. also if anyone could tell me how to lean the car out, im not exactly sure if its running real rich or too lean but i know theres alot of soot in the exhaust and when i realy rev the car black smoke comes out the exhaust, not much but a little. and now the car runs choppy when it idles and revs, it goes bub bub bub bub when it idles and sounds the same when it revs. obviously its louder but it bub's when it revs like it wants to cut out. I realy appreciate the help

gheatly

iTrader: (2)

Black smoke is definitely running rich. The best way to know how rich is to pull the plugs. The darker the plug, the more rich you are running. The darkest you want is chocolate brown. Black is definitely too rich.

I would start by making sure all of the sensors and vacuum lines are good. At what RPM does the car idle and why do you think the timing is off? Is this something that started happening recently or did you just buy the car and is was like that when you bought it?

Are the air cleaners clean? Take them off and look at the fuel spraying out of the fuel injector. Does it come out as a fine mist or is it coming out in a stream? If it is streaming out, your injectors may just be dirty or they may need to be replaced. Try running a can of fuel injector cleaner through the engine first.

You need to get ahold of a code reader or and ALDL connector and some software to read data from the ECM. You need to know if the ECM is generating any trouble codes. This is how you will find out if you have any bad sensors.

I bought my '82 crossfire not too long ago and have just started more advanced tuning. You really need to be committed to getting the system working.

83TransAmRECARO

Personally, it took increasing the spark on my cross-fire to prevent it from running rich... I added a msd ignition system and distributor and havent had any rich problems...

servo2055chevy

ya, i changed the plugs wires cap and rotor last month, the plugs were black. i know the cars timing is off because i had it in my high school and my shop teacher said he was going to fix it for me, well he made (ME) check the timing which is at like 28 degrees and its supposed to be 6 or something, well i told him and he just said "ok, well idk how to fix it. so now im on here looking for help with it and i appreciate the replys im getting.Thank you, anyways it had the problem of taking 2-3 seconds to start since i got the car last year, when i turn the key it spins 2-3 times and fires over, it still does that problem, and now it realy hessitates, and did that since i got the car, when i had it in my school i brought it in for the timing and it had now power and wouldn't rev past 2500 rpm, well the catalytic converter was completly deteriorated with carbon and such, and it wasn't getting enough flow through the exhaust and it was clogged, so i gutted it out. but the thing with how my car is running now, im verry low on gas, and that maybe why its really bumping when it idles and i rev it, but the pattern out of the injectors is a cone mist, the spray is like - - - - - - - - - - that,on each throttle body. I use prestone octane booster with 93 octane in the car, the octane booster cleans out gum and stuff. let me know what you think man, and tell me more about the computer program and how i get it and what it will do and if i can fix the problem by computer or by mechanic work. I appreciate this. thanks
-MIKE
I knew that something was wrong when i was running my car out front of my house and I realy got on the gas and it just flooded out, and when i let off the gas it would barely stay running, It doesn't even smoke the tires when i floor it, I know these cars could deffinitly spin the tires from a standing stop, the car just doesn't do that.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

To check/set the timing there should be a connector to open. This puts the distributor in bypass mode. Then set it to the 6* BTDC. You will know if the correct connector is open as the SES will light up and code 42 will be set.

I don't know if it uses the small cap or large cap HEI distributor. A small cap distrib usually has a single tan/black-stripe wire with a connector to open.

A large cap distrib usually has a 4-pin connector off the distributor to open. Although that is for CCC cars. Which won't work on an EFI car. It will also stop the injectors from firing.

After setting the timing, turn off the engine and re-connect the bypass. Then re-start the engine. I would also check the fuel pressure. It should be between 9 and 13 psi.

RBob.

servo2055chevy

I don't have a scan tool, it has the large HEI Distributer. And what do you mean, connector to open? do you mean unplug? Im sorry, i don't know much about this stuff, like i said im in high school taking up auto shop, we didn't get to electrical and ignition yet. haha

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

I believe it is near firewall near the brake booster. black/tan. you disconnect to set timing. dont forget to reconnect.

a failing coolant temp sensor can also make car run very rich.

pull codes. i recall some auto part stores can pull for you.

servo2055chevy

cool, so I just unplug the black and tan wires then do what? and how do i know if my coolant temp sensor is bad, the gauge works on the dash? but I was driving at my girlfriends house in her back yard where its dirt and very bumpy, well as i went over bumps the gauge went up and down like 3 times, its fine now.... again everyone i appreciate the help

servo2055chevy

but from what i said that is the problem tho right, the car is too rich?

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

disconnect. set timing to 6 deg BTDC. reconnect. disconnect battery to clear code. reconnect battery.

again check for codes. coolant temp sensor I believe is code 14. when in aldl mode(jumper at aldl link) you will see a code 12 one flash pause 2 flashes. three times it occurs. that tells you in aldl mode. then error code follows. one flash pause 4 flashes for coolant sensor. three times it will report. OR better yet see if auto parts store has a scan tool.

servo2055chevy

the car idles at 7-800 rpm, and when i put it in drive it idles like 500

servo2055chevy

but how do i set the accual timing tho, I understand to disconnect the wire but what do i do then, im pretty sure i don't set the timing by moving the distributer

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

rich is a symptom of an issue. you cannot run car lean or rich as EFI. unless you swap proms.

Most likely a sensor issue.

I would verify timing. As stated should be set at 6 deg ADV(BTDC). Most likely is there. Someone may have advanced it a little. You need to clean the timing plate on engine and same with the vibration damper so that that can be read. Then use a timing light to verify..

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

You set the initial timing by moving the dist.

gheatly

iTrader: (2)

Here is the procedure from the 82 shop manual (which I highly recommend you get. I got mine on ebay.):

Make all adjustments with engine in "closed loop" operation, normal operating temperature, air cleaner installed, air conditioning off and all hoses connected. Set parking brake and block drive wheels.

1. Put EST in bypass mode by disconnecting lead at EST bypass connector (GH - as discused in the posts above);

2. with an inductive timing light connected, observe the timing light flashes on the pulley in relation to the indicator (GH - i.e, the timing marks on the balancer and the timing tab attached to the timing chain cover) and adjust timing to 6 degrees BTDC at 500 RPM.

3. reconnect lead at EST bypass

You adjust initial timing in step 2 by loosening the distributor hold down bolt (passenger side under the distributor in the intake manifold) and turning the distributor. Works best if you have a helper to move the distributor while you read the timing. DO NOT grab ahold of the spark plug wires when turning the distributor or you may get a nasty surprise.

servo2055chevy

Hey, guys. Ijust wanted to say thank you to everyone. Yesterday I filled up my car with gas (93 Octane and Octane booster) as usuall and I started it up and after 20 mins of driving in rain and doing burnouts the problem with the bogging and rough idle stopped? it idled smooth and all! I don't know what it was, maybe like I said in my post it was because my gas was verry low, or it could be a fuel pump going, because i was in the road in front of my driveway burning out and cars were coming up quick and I didn't want to get into trouble so i quickly backed up and it was hopping real bad and the wheel was spinning it made the car shake violently, so It could have been a fuel pump going and it gave it a hell of a wake up call. But in a way im kinda worred that the problem got better and I didn't do anything... Let me know what you guys think. Again Thank you. Either way I will replace the sensors, the timing is still off though.

gheatly

iTrader: (2)

On a crossfire car, the EST bypass connector is behind the passenger side valve cover. On an original harness, the black stripe may have smeared off (it was painted on) and the wire may appear more brown that tan. The tan/brown wire is not tucked into any of the wiring harness cover, so it should be easy to see. The wire goes into a small black one-wire connector.

If you don't remove the connector, the computer controls the timing and you will see the commanded spark advance (i.e., the 28* you saw). When you disconnect the connector, the computer no longer controls timing and you will see actual initial advance. So you MUST disconnect the EST bypass in order to set initial timing.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

Any updates?