Alright... It's down to build time finally, engine is getting yanked and sent off to the machine shop... Race engine design... to get worked over. Below is a list of mods, parts and whats being done.

Taking the stock L-98 block and boring it 30 over, align bored, new cam bearings and freeze plugs.

Heads are getting cleaned, 2.02 / 1.60 valves with Comp springs installed. 3/8 studs and clearanced.

LT4 Hot cam
Comp magnum 1.6 Roller tip rockers
Scat rotating assembly, flat top coated pistons with 2 valve reliefs, forged rods and series 9000 crankshaft. ARP main and head bolts
New Comp Roller lifters
Hedman Elite coated headers, Hedman Y-pipe and Magnaflow catback
Comp Roller timing set
MSD billet distributor and coil
SLP TPI Runners, intake and plenum is getting ported
Holley 58mm TB
180 thermostat

And I'm doing a T-5 swap as well while the engine is out. Got a centerforce DFX clutch but will be reusing the stock 92 305 flywheel since it's in good shape. After being resurfaced of course.

My question is... I'm sure the engine will start and run with the stock tune. But will it run like total **** or will it be ok enough to get the engine broken in? I'd rather take the car after the engine is broke in, after a 1000 miles or so, and dyno tune the car so the tune will be dead on. I'm used to the LSX platform too, being easier to tune and not having to use a chip. Or can these mail order tuners get the tune close enough to be almost dead on without having to spend money on dyno time? Trying to be efficient with my money after spending a ton on parts.

Thanks

 

Some would say run put a carb on it temporarily for breakin. Another option is to hook up WB which you will want anyway and run open loop modify fuel pressure till you see 14.0/1 on WB during breakin.

I added heads and cam but engine already broken in. Engine ran fine at 2000 rpms or so for cam breakin(flat tappet). Not sure what the A/F was but oil temp and coolant was fine.