Originally Posted by Ronny

Only experience I had with a overly sensitive KS was on my snowmobile. Fix was to add a hard plastic(nylon?) washed under it between my head and the sensor. Mine was threaded. Now some sensors are less sensitive than others or read diff frequency. I head once the V6 KS from a full size platform car was less sensitive. Not sure on that..

Or fix the issue with what is causing the noise.

Originally Posted by Ronny

On older cars(mine) mechanical noise sets off the KS. I ended up reducing the spark retard in .bin but did not disable. It appears in logs but with minimal retard shown. Lately it shows no retard yet I am more aggressive on SA.

Is adding a remote blower(I forget the terminology aka Procharger/Vortec) a given to produce knock retard? I would think the mgf would say it will not cause that issue.

Originally Posted by Ronny

If you remove the drive belt from blower will K cease? I would give that a test unless K occurred day one of blower install and car did not show KC's in logs before.

Originally Posted by Recaro trans am

Well I just installed the knock sensor and module for my DFI gen7 only just this past weekend. So any prior log I have no clue, besides that its not a knock. Its only at idle and like I said I can hear the blower whine change pitch at the same rate as the sensor detects a "knock". So its really just picking up the harmonics that the blower is generating, not an ignition detonation.

Stand alone systems like holley have the capability to take the factory one wire GM knock sensor system and adjust the sensitivity as well as how much timing is removed with RPM vs Manifold abs psr %. If I can just figure out how to adjust it in the Accel DFI system I have I think it will be fine and the blower can scream as loud as it wants. lol

Originally Posted by project89

u can get a brass 45, or 90 degree fitting and screw it into the block then screw the knock sensor into that , which will desensitize the sensor a good bit at low rpms

Originally Posted by Tuned Performance

it is 1/4 npt to 1/4 npt, or a Ron Francis knock sensor adapter to go on the oil pan rail.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rf...FY87Mgod6xMALw

Originally Posted by efiguy

Go to "Ignition", then "Knock". You will see an 8x8 table referenced by load and rpm.
At whatever KPA you're getting the idle noise at just 0 that area. If the value is not set to 0 and it detects a "knock" for more than 15 seconds it will default. Therefore the fault code.
And if you have a Pro key you can adjust how quickly it retards the spark as well as how quickly it restores it.

This system has had this programming since '04. Funny how people say the Gen VII is old technology. Simply not so, others are still catching up in a lot of ways.

Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by efiguy

Go to "Ignition", then "Knock". You will see an 8x8 table referenced by load and rpm.
At whatever KPA you're getting the idle noise at just 0 that area. If the value is not set to 0 and it detects a "knock" for more than 15 seconds it will default. Therefore the fault code.
And if you have a Pro key you can adjust how quickly it retards the spark as well as how quickly it restores it.

This system has had this programming since '04. Funny how people say the Gen VII is old technology. Simply not so, others are still catching up in a lot of ways.

Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by project89

this is why i dislike so many of the aftermarket standalones or ecm systems , the features are there but u have to pay more to unlock or use them, make the dam system a single price with everything unlocked

Originally Posted by efiguy

I completely disagree!
I can't tell you how many times I get someone who fooled with stuff that they had no idea what they were fooling with. It happens all too often.
I applaud Accel for doing what others should do.

That's why the Thruster is perfect. Has just as many features as most but is basically a Gen VII with different software.

FYI BS3, Motec and a few others have different levels as well. It's only the FAST's, Holley and a few others that don't limit the accessibility based on the programmer skills. And trust me, there are a lot of "tuners" out there that have no business doing what they're doing.
If you've done as many as I have I'm very sure you'd agree.

Originally Posted by project89

i can see ur side of it , but its the persons fault for not reading the manual and not understanding what everything does

Originally Posted by efiguy

Exactly!! Guys change stuff just because it's so easy to do. I get cals emailed to me and sometimes I wonder how it even ran, they're that bad.

Originally Posted by Recaro trans am

It seams I may not be able to run a knock sensor with the Procharger. No matter where I am im seeing a trigger from the knock sensor, small about 2 deg but enough to remain constant that the light comes on.

On a side note, what table do I need adjust the IAC so that when I snap off the throttle ( like when coming to a traffic light) the idle will come down slower and not drop down to 300RPM and want to stall before it recovers back at my set idle of 750RPM? Thanks again.

Originally Posted by efiguy

Throttle follower. Plus make sure you have the throttle plates set correctly. You should see IAC counts around 8-12 when hot and in neutral.

Knock - Zero all the higher vacuum areas and see what happens.

Originally Posted by Recaro trans am

For the Knock sensor 8x8 my car is boosted but the Map axes goes from 0.00 to 87.50. Why? Should it not go from -(neg) numbers (vac) to positive being Boost? I'll check, they've changed the software and have now gone back to the 6.1.5.

The throttle plates are set to factor spec, what that was I don't remember but I remember having to set them, increase their opening, reset low TPS setpoint and see what your IAC counts are. then the distance for the IAC.
The throttle follower table, What exactly am I looking to move to get the car to idle smooth? That has nothing to do with the throttle follower. The throttle follower is strictly for the return of the throttle to idle. IAC position is on the Y axis and TPS position on the X. Mine right now starts at 18% and tracks up to 30.0 around TPS % of 30%.

Originally Posted by efiguy

Smooth idle will be obtained by having the correct air/fuel and timing then setting your "Idle spark compensation" table correctly. The IAC is only for A/C activation, into drive etc. It actually does very little for idle quality.

Based on your info, once you properly set the TPS low setpoint and throttle blades your throttle follower at a base of 18 will probably be pretty close to optimum when hot and in neutral.

Originally Posted by Recaro trans am

Right, Perhaps that was a poor choice of words. What I ment by "smooth idle" is when it returns to idle from a quick release of the throttle, usually when coming to a traffic light. When I release the accelerator the RPM's dip down to about 200 and then slowly recover. If I dont heal toe, or down shift it will almost stall. The car itself idles beautiful, if the damn super charger was not so loud you would never know what lurks under the hood. The throttle follower table is a bit confusing to me. Should I increase the IAC % or should I shorten the TPS % slope? If you still have my Cal file it may make more sense what i'm saying.

With the engine idling, go to "Target Idle speed", look in the lower right. What is the IAC count? Hot, in neutral it should be roughly 8-12. If it is your current setting of the throttle follower should be decent.
But it may not be obviously. So make sure you have the counts down around 8-12. If they aren't then you need to open the throttle blades slightly, then reset low speed TPS until you have the counts mentioned.
If it still stalls then just go to the "page up" key on your keypad. It'll raise the whole graph.


Also, I zeroed out all the vac region of the table (if they are indeed vac) and now the light wont trigger at idle and light cruise. I am still getting a knock signal on light load highway driven and enough to set code 36. I'm starting to wonder if it would help to move the knock sensor to the Passenger side away from the procharger. Any other suggestions?

Originally Posted by efiguy

0 the next line. You'll probably just have to 0 everything except the bottom 2 rows.

Originally Posted by Recaro trans am

So you were 100% right. Of course I was.
I can not change the knock table while driving but even with the top 4 rows zeroed out I'm still getting code 36. By the time I'm done the whole table will be zeroed out. Theres got to be a better solution.

Originally Posted by efiguy

The top 4 rows are all high vacuum situations, you typically wouldn't need spark retard there any way. Go down 2 more rows.

Originally Posted by efiguy

Ok was it in light load or under boost? You said both.
Make sure your configuration screens are correct, I.e. injector size and fuel pressure.

Originally Posted by Recaro trans am

I currently have 36 lb injectors and think Its time to up the size. I think im just on the edge of them being adequate. If i calculated it right I should have around 47lbs.

Originally Posted by efiguy

That's why your VE numbers are so high. I had a feeling you didn't have enough injector in it. What is your anticipated Hp?

Originally Posted by efiguy

If your pump will handle it up your pressure to 55-60. Then change the config screen.
Always use the smallest injector possible with the highest pressure. It'll drive better.

Originally Posted by Recaro trans am

So I have an Aeromotive 11106 700HP EFI fuel pump. It can be run to a max pressure of 65psi. I need to get another gauge for my accel fuel pressure hose gauge. I took it off for something and now cant find it. lol

Remember as you increase pump pressure you decrease it's output.

I have to ask, Why is it better to run a smaller injector with the higher pressure? Not that the injector I have is small, its just border line for my combo.
Normally a better spray pattern, better atomization of the fuel.

Originally Posted by efiguy

We were headed the EMC a couple years ago with a normally aspirated SB2 making 840hp using only 55# injectors.

Originally Posted by Recaro trans am

So If I increase the pressure im going decrease the flow. Isnt that bad? Dont I need flow? What pressure would you suggest I start with. I still have to check where mine is but I seam to remember it being around 45-50psi. But just like everything else you told me to check Ive been wrong. lol

Originally Posted by efiguy

All pumps are rated to supply a certain amount of fuel at a certain pressure. Some pumps will still work well above that but when you increase the pressure out of the pump to the injectors, the injectors will flow more, but the pump will pump less volume at the higher pressure. You need more flow out of the injectors so if the pump will still supply enough volume at the higher pressure then you're good to go.