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DFI and ECMDiscuss all aspects of DFI (Digital Fuel Injection), ECMs (Electronic Control Module), scanners, and diagnostic equipment. Fine tune your Third Gen computer system for top performance.
Since my factory ECU has the knock module built in I don't know if an external GM unit would be compatible with my sensor. There are several part numbers, not sure which one would work if any.
I plan to write up some docs for people who want to use MS on their TPI, either in the stock F/Y Body or in a swap. Hopefully I can list exactly what to do right the first time so they don't have to spend as much time as it has taken me...
Since my factory ECU has the knock module built in I don't know if an external GM unit would be compatible with my sensor. There are several part numbers, not sure which one would work if any.
Not sure what wells # your factory knock sensor is, but that article should help.
Originally Posted by kurtis72
I plan to write up some docs for people who want to use MS on their TPI, either in the stock F/Y Body or in a swap. Hopefully I can list exactly what to do right the first time so they don't have to spend as much time as it has taken me...
I did that a couple years ago, but I based it on the Microsquirt MODULE.
I stuck it inside a stock '165 ECM case, and developed the wiring schematic so it mimics 90% of the factory wiring for plug and play. The only thing you have to do is unplug the maf, and wire in a MAP sensor.
I even have starter project files for a stock L98.
But everyone wants to buy a pre-built MS2 and do it the hard way
The Microsquirt MODULE is a far superior board than the MS2. Less components, it's not as susceptible to interference/noise. It's what most of the commercial MS PNP ECU's are based off.
Tried to do some more tuning, I seem to have inconsistency from one startup to another. I had it idling great around 14.5 AFR. Then I shut it off and re start and it is over 15. So I take some fuel out at idle and it is fine again. I shut it off and wait and now it is really fat (13 or less)
I think it might also make a difference if the laptop is connected.
Just a quick update: I have the car running on MS2 with the Extra Code. There is still more tuning to be done and I have no emissions or speedometer, but I am making progress.
The most important thing I learned:
SKIP THE B&G FIRMWARE. Go right to the Extra 3.4 firmware. It is way more complicated, but it actually works...