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DFI and ECMDiscuss all aspects of DFI (Digital Fuel Injection), ECMs (Electronic Control Module), scanners, and diagnostic equipment. Fine tune your Third Gen computer system for top performance.
I didn't want to hijack the last thread so I better start my own thread now
Last year I converted to the HP Efi Setup which was a good choice in my opinion. My GTA was running better than with the stock ECM , but I didn't drive it much and haven't had the time to dial in all settings as it should have been.
So until now, I was driving with a more or less pre-made configuration, no big changes were made to the spark advance and target AFR table or the AE tables.
For this year I'm planning on optimizing the configuration for my engine to run best possible in terms of power and fuel economy. My last drive was really disappointing, i was out of fuel within 140mls, that is just too much with gas prices of around $7 per gallon for just driving around without flooring the pedal....
Here you can see the tables I was driving with. I think at least the Target AFR Table is set to be pig rich. I edited some cells in the cruising are to be a bit leaner, but that doesn't do the trick
My old Target AFR Table
My old Spark Advance Table
So now I went on and read alot about tuning the afr table etc. and came up with this one:
New AFR Table
What do you think about it? Is there something you would think "don't flash it, you will ruin your engine!!" or would you suggest to try this if it works?
Next: As far as I read, if I go leaner , I will have to advance timing due to slower burn rates. Do you have some suggestions for me which parts of the timing table would have to be altered and by how much?
This dyno run was with the stock ecm, intake and hooker headers with stock catback, and the tuner who calibrated my bin has misinterpreted some data which was set, such as the initial timing...... so I had around 10° less spark advanced than I should have had.
After correction of all the mistakes the tuner had done, I was able to do some enhancements for myself. Still without altering any of my setup, the engine made around 380hp and torque increased as well to around 410 lb/ft.
With my current setup the engine makes around 380-400hp , 420-430 lb/ft .
Looks like my injectors are a limiting factor at the moment, but this could be fixed by raising the fuel pressure which is currently at 43.5psi or less (my fuel pressure gauge broke , the new holley pressure sensor has been ordered and is now on it's way). Logs show 85-100+% duty cycle in the 4000+ rpm ranges on wot.
Datalog - WOT run 2nd Gear
Hope you may have some suggestions for me to get it running properly.
I'm curious, why did you go with 30# injectors and that cam? Whats your compression.
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I had a 355ci with the HSR, AFR195 and Dyno Don combo.. 1.6rr's but with a 36# injector and CC503 Cam (which is a bit similar to your cam) and it make 327rwhp/331rwtq on the dyno with around 9.5:1 compression. Now I went up to the 383 game and upgraded to the XFI-280 Comp cam, 52mm Throttlebody and 10.65:1 compression and it should be around the 430-450rwhp game.
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Got my hopes up for using some of this info haha switching over the the Holley HP EFI right now. but appears there is a giant difference :x
That was the idea of my engine builder , I trusted him to build a proven combo for nice driveability.
First I had some LS1 injectors but he changed them to those 30s he had laying around.
If the camshaft is such a limiting factor, I could drop in another one maybe next year.
Compression ratio should be 10.4:1
Your air/fuels are all over the place. Too lean can be just as inefficient as too rich.
Post your "new" timing map as well. 30# inectors at 50psi should be fine for your power level.
My guess is it makes more power than before but probably doesn't drive any better?
Haven't tried it yet. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have my new fuel pressure sensor in place and at least dial in a proper pressure.
For the spark table, I'm totally lost at the moment.
But a friend of mine had the same engine ,but he has a TBI on top of it controlled by EBL , maybe there is some way to translate his SA Table, as far as I remember his car had no issues with power or efficiency.
I'd save what you got now, then Id' reset the tune and start fresh, maybe even update your firmware on the ecu to latest. Get everything set back up, make sure that your distributor is sync"d up with the holley ecu. If not your gonna have troubles. Redo your tps autoset, cycle the key and fire it up. Let it idle until the learn has turned green on the software then take it for a slow drive.
Seems that my fuel pressure didnt match the values I used in the Holley setup.
It was just running at around 25psi , I now raised it to 45psi , edited the fuel tables in the idle area and after that let the ecm do some learning at operating temperature. Test drive felt alot smoother than before.
@Thatsupnow : Thanks, I flashed to v4 last week, reverted the Spark and Target AFR Table to Holleys Stock Tables, so it was a fresh restart more or less (I kept my Input&Output Config and DFCO settings ) . TPS autoset was done , Ignition Reference Angle is set to 10°, this does match the mechanical advance.
Unfortunately I never really understood that inductive delay setting. I currrently have set it to 258 usec , but cant tell if this was set to the most precise value. It was hard to see if the timing actually advanced or retarded with raising rpm on a static timing of 30°.
I'll do some test driving tomorrow and check if my mpg increased ... filled it up today and had around 12mpg calculated from the last 80mls driving (most was on the autobahn @70-80mph feathering the gas pedal , just floored it 2-3 times for some datalogging ).
And if the street is dry, I maybe give it a try and do a small smartphone-dyno-run (Perfexpert @ Android)
Btw@ Thatsupnow : Did you hook up your VSS signal to your HP Ecu? I'm currently uncertain about how to wire it correctly. VSS buffer to programmable input? Does this look right to you?
No I didn't hook my vss up to the holley. I ended up buying a used gm buffer box GM#25071437. It's used for many applications not just for 3rd gens. Anyways I hooked up power to the box and connected the vss input to it then used the 4000 ppm needed for my speedo.
Holley hp tunes are setup to work with holley hp injectors. The voltage offset is calculated into the tune. Other injectors may be different. Go to the holley hp board. Danny over there is a wiz with these.
Think I should be fine with this.
Hopefully I can to some test driving today or tomorrow, for the moment I can just say the engine feels as smooth like a completely stock L98. But it also feels that there is some power that wants to be unleashed.... streets are still wet and slippery, so I'll have to wait a little bit more before testing how it behaves at more aggressive driving.
Can you give me some feedback on the holley hp efi system please. Do you like it, is it user friendly, any complaints? I have a very similar setup to yours in my camaro and I really want to upgrade my computer to a system that will make it easier for me to tune myself. Any input would be appreciated before i make this purchase, thanks.
I would say it's much more user friendly than having a stock ecm with ostrich emulator and tunerpro.
You can download the holley software and take a look what you can do there.
Wiring harness integration was about 2-3 days of lazy working.
Getting a base config for a first startup was about 5 minutes . Getting it right is a completely other journey
For now my 383 feels very strong, but it still is very thirsty. Lets say around 12-13mpg average. Havent tweaked the AE tables yet, but since I've been driving barely 300mls this year, there was not much time for me to do this.
Thank you for your input. A couple of other questions for you if you dont mind. Did you use the holley hp efi computer and harness part #550-601n in your car? How driveable was your car after it did its "self tune"? After playing with it have you discovered that the self tune was pretty far off? Also, have you used holley tech support and if so how has that been in your opinion.
Not exaxtly, I ordered the kit with a Bosch WBO02 instead of NTK.
After self tuning I'd say it is driveable. I had to modifiy the startup enrichtment tables as I had problems with starting up and driving immediately. Had some popping noises / stalling. I think I had to increase the enrichtment %.
Other than that, there were not many issues, haven't used the tech support, but I was minimal active in the holley forums. ~10 posts in 2 threads solved most problems I had. The guy over there, Danny, is a very nice and helpful person.
Some thing I didn't understand for a long time:
Self tuning is far away from having no work to do anymore
It'll help achieving a baseline.
I will do some checks in the following weeks , how much impact the AE tables have on fuel economy
You might want to check what exactly you upgraded your firmware too. V2 is about all you would need. V3 and v4 are more for the hemi and fords. Dont know if that would interfere with the tuning.
You might want to check what exactly you upgraded your firmware too. V2 is about all you would need. V3 and v4 are more for the hemi and fords. Dont know if that would interfere with the tuning.
It shouldn't interfere. In fact if you call Holley they recommend the V4 for just about everything as it has some of bugs worked out. But imo not enough of them.
04-23-2016, 03:17 PM
