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Trying to understand injector constant editing?

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Old Apr 19, 2002 | 06:11 PM
  #1  
kyrenegade's Avatar
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20 Year Member
 
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 95
Likes: 3
From: Lexington, Ky
Car: 91 Camaro Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi Disc
Trying to understand injector constant editing?

Hi! Thanks for helping a newbie!
I have a 91 Camaro (1227730ecm) 355, flat top pistons, Sportsman II cylinder heads, Competition Cams Camshaft for modified 350 TPI, 30lb injectors, AFPR.
Edited eprom for CC change, disabled Vats, 30lb injectors, lowered fan temp.

Engine runs rough at idle, running rich. Here is the data from the scanner.
Throttle Sensor- 0.84v
BLM- 118
Spark Advance- 12.6deg
Idle Air Mtr Pos- 0 steps
Injector Pulse- 2.6ms
O2 Cross Counts- 1
Rich Lean Flag- Rich
Integrator- 128
Knock Retard- 0deg
MAP sensor- 2.84v
Throttle Angle- 0deg
Oxygen Sensor- 740mvolts
Block Learn Cell- 4 11

What is the best way to get the idle smoothe and the BLMs to 128? Do I adjust the fuel pressure or change the injector constants for a shorter pulse time?

Sorry for so long but I thought the more information the better you could point me in the right direction!

Thanks!!!!:hail:
Kyrenegade
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Old Apr 19, 2002 | 09:19 PM
  #2  
Grumpy's Avatar
Supreme Member
 
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 7,554
Likes: 1
From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
How does it run else where?.
If it's just idle then get in and lower the VEs in the idle area.
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Old Apr 20, 2002 | 03:15 PM
  #3  
Warlock's Avatar
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 50
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From: Aliso Viejo, CA USA
I think you also have a couple mechanical problems that I would fix first. Your TPS and Idle Air are both off. I thin the TPS should be @ .54 volts and your idle air steps should be around 40. The IAC (idle Air Control) is really a controlled vacuume leak. With the steps at 0, it has closed completely to limit the incoming air but it is still not enough.

Leave it idling warm with your scanner attached and use the throttle body adjustment screw to close the opening until your Idle Steps show about 40. Then adjust your TPS sensor until it is close to .54 volts.

Once that is fixed, I would start looking at changing yout programming to improve your idle.

Also, if you close it all the way and still have 0 steps, you have a mahjor vacuum leak somewhere.
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Old Apr 21, 2002 | 09:40 AM
  #4  
Grim Reaper's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
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From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
I think Warlock is right. Though Warlock's numbers are more common with a MAF system, SD is fairly close (though not exactly the same as MAF).

The TPS on SD cars is generally a little higher (since you can't adjust it), but with a properly adjusted IAC you should be in the .54-.69 range. You are too high right now.

Also, your IAC counts is WAY OFF. Go to the "Tech Archives" on this board and find the article on "Adjusting your IAC" and follow it's procedure. Until you get the IAC properley adjusted, you really can't "tune" the idle. FYI, my IAC counts are 60-70 on a "fully warmed" engine in closed loop with the tranny in Drive.

Also, remember that you MUST drive the car first to get it into closed loop. It will not go into closed loop just by sitting and idling with SD. Also, Cell 4 is a special cell and you will ALWAYS be in Cell 4 for Idle (also WOT and when "Closed loop goes out" like prolonged idleing or prolong deceleration down a long hill....I've observed)

But do a little searching on the "MAIN PAGE" for this Web Site and find the "Tech Articles" or "FAQs" and locate the article on the proper procedure to adjust your IAC. Then you can tune from there.

Also, remember that you will NEVER be able to get the Engine to idle > 800 rpm when you put the car in gear unless you find the specific instructions (there are two) that control this. I know they are there, I just forget where...and no one has posted them either. If you "think" you found them, let me know, I will tell you if those are the proper one.
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