First off, I'm sorry if I am posting this on the wrong board, it seemed to be the most appropriate one. I just swapped a TPI 350 into my 91 RS conv. My car is a 5 speed and the other was an auto. What is the difference between a auto and a 5 speed chip. The car is running and driving now. Is there a need to change the chip. I am planning on changing it sometime i the future in order to get rid of the top speed cutoff. The problem is I have a Paxton supercharger for it and would like to wait to get the memcal burned after I get a chance to install the supercharger. Any imput will be greatly appreciated.


Aloha,



Jason

 

I may be missing something, dude, but what are you asking?

Are you wanting to know about changing you bin for your engine swap? OR do you want to know about tuning for the supercharger?
In my opinion, get the stuff and start making your own chips. Its not very expensive, its interesting, and you will learn a lot about what makes the FI tick. My first cars were all carbed and my camaro is my first " new" car. I almost trashed the computer and FI for a carb, but after reading so much about on the DIY prom board, i figured i could do it to. Try it out and i bet you'll like it.

 

What I really wanted to know was weather a 350 auto chip would cause any problems when used with a 5 speed. I want to get into PROM burning. Is it that difficult? How much does it cost for the equipment? I'm sure these are fequently asked questions so I apologize.



Aloha,



Jason

 

Hey,

I ran a 88 auto PROM for 2 years with a 5 spd, and a supercharger. This was very ignorant of me.

I'm running the ARAP bin right now, with lots of modifications, manual transmission selected, etc.

I think you'll find driveability wise - the correct prom is gonna make you happier. There was a lot of little quirks with the 88 PROM I was running that I've already gotten rid of. Aside from messing with fuel and timing a bit more, I'm almost happy.

A lot of these guys swear by the 730, and in my honest opinion I bet it is better for a N/A application. I think you're gonna go nuts with that supercharger however. I hope it came with an FMU and a BTM. Otherwise plan on spending the next few months prom tuning for next year. I know if I cut over to 730, I sure as hell will.

To answer your question about prom tuning, you should first read traxions article. He did a pretty good job..

Generally, Your gonna need the burner. I bought the pocket programmer II. It was $149.00 shipped.

You're gonna need some proms. I used the 29C256's, they're $5.29 a pop from JDR. Might as well get
an ARIES ZIF socket for $8.16 while you are ordering, since they're gonna charge you a 5.00 handling fee, plus 7.25 shipping.

Then you're gonna need a tuning program. Tunercat
is nice. You'll also use winbin from time to time, trust me. Tunercat is gonna run you $90.00 with your DEF file.

Then you're gonna need to modify your mamcal. You'll need to carefully unsolder the Prom, solder in the new ZIF socket. Once you soldered it in, use a multimeter and do a continuity test accross each pin to ensure correct soldering, and make sure no pins are crossed to each other.

Once thats set, you'll want to download a 730 bin from ftp.diy-efi.org/incoming/ . I think AUJN is what these guys recommend as a base for that.. Start by selecting your transmission as manual, disable EGR, and write the prom out. That image is 32k, so you can leave the default of 00000-7FFFF
when you burn it.

Go check your prom. A solid check engine when the car is started means the car is in limp-home and your prom didn't burn right/solder right/etc. Otherwise, give that a try down the road. Make changes gradually.. Don't do too many things at once! - you'll get lost.


-- Joe

 

It's amazing what we run and think is "okay" until we get into eprom burning. I always thought my GTA was nicely tuned UNTIL I got into eprom burning and discovered how overly rich I was running.

A lot of guys find that auto bins and manual bins have difficulties when running them on the other. The IAC just doesn't seem to work the same. As a 350 never came with a manual, a lot of guys find better luck modifying a 305 5-speed bin over a 350 auto bin.

I had one buddy with a 305 5-speed that tried the ARAP, loved the performance but found driveability problems in traffic. So he went back to his original BIN, grafted the ARAPs MAF Scalar Tables and then tweaked the spark tables (more aggressive than stock but toned down from the ARAP) and liked it much better.

It's just a bin...might want to give it a try.

 

Hey Glen,

> It's amazing what we run and think is "okay"
> until we get into eprom burning.

No kidding huh.. I'm still tweaking things though.

The bin your buddy is running, what year is it based on? I chose the ARAP because of the cold start deletion, highway mode disabled, etc.

I havn't really noticed any major driveability problems yet but. I havn't got it tuned to the point where I want to take it out on a saturday afternoon either. At idle, and when off the throttle quickly it leans a little too much for my liking (like .200mv)

I'm curious to compare the differences between an
AUTO and MANUAL bin in reference to what tables are modified and why.. The auto bin in a standard
car just drives like crap. And when your other
daily driver is a standard (1998 1/2 ton) you KNOW
it drives like crap.


-- Joe

 

Just curious to what you guys think. I changed my car from a manual to an auto(th350). I began with the 305 TPI bin as the base. THe car barely ran. I changed a few things, injector constant, cylinder cc, target idel vs coolant temp, etc. the car runs ok now and i will start to play with the spark and fuel tables. Do you guys think another bin from the diy-ecm site would be a better place to start tuning for these things? By the way the engine is a 383, TH350, 730 ecm. Thanks.