I did an LT1 intake swap on my 305 last year and got a chip from Ed Wright. The car runs rich and idles rough. I have checked everything I know to check. Everyone I talk to says the chip needs reprogrammed. Problem is I can't find anyone with the equipment to do it.

So anyone form the Dayton/Columbus area that has the know-how and equipment to do some programming?

Thanks, Ron

 

This board is to learn how to program eproms, not a referal service. You've already wasted money on buying an aftermarket eprom and you will continue to wast money UNTIL you start to burn the eprom yourself.

You will NOT get the results you are seeking by simply having someone hook up a scan tool, take a quick drive around the block and then burn a new eprom. When you make a drastic change (and an LT1 intake is a drastic change EVEN if everything else is the same), you need to do LOTS of data logging and modify all the Fuel and possibly the spark tables to get optimal performance. This will involve a time committment on your part, but once done you will be VERY satisfied with the results.

Anyone that really knows what they are doing with eproms will say the same thing as I do - if they disagree, they wither don't know what they are talking about or they just want your money. You wasted your money once (would have paid for the burner), don't waste your money a second time. Get the equipment and burn your own. You won't be sorry.

 

PS: When I went from my TPI and went to a Miniram with ported Aluminum ZZ3 heads (cam still stock but to be changed shortly), my stock bin ran like crap. I had made a "draft bin" using various "projections" based on computerized "dyno programs" that compared VE of my original setup to the VE my new setup.

I then modified the Fuel Tables based on the change of VE for the "draft". After a few "tweaks" of the Injector Constant, it ran quite well - good enough to drive around and run smoothly. Better than most aftermarket eproms you'd be able to buy, but still far from optimal. Once I started to do "data captures" and review the results, I was quite surprised with how well this method worked to "draft a bin", but I still found a great room for improvement. After spending a few weeks driving around and "tweaking", it now performs beautifully.

Now, I plan to install a better cam and expect to do this all over again. But, since I have all the necessary equipment and have been practicing a lot on my car through all the changes, a new cam will be no problem to tune - choosing the cam is more of a problem.

But, if I had gone your route, I'd be purchasing another new eprom and no where near the state of tune I've achieved. Think.

 

Well, as you say, I have already spent a good amount of money on a chip. And now I don't want to spend another $300-$400 dollars buying my own "burning stuff", let alone spending who knows how much time trying to learn and figure out how to program chips. I don't have the time, thats why I bought one of Ed's chips, hoping it would be right. Unfortunetly it's a little off. Ed isn't returning my emails so I kindof said "F" him I'll try to find someone that can tune chips. I wasn't trying to solicate help from a Information board, sorry about that. Glenn, you have helped me in the past and I appriciate everything you and everyone else has done to help me out. I didn't mean to **** anyone off, which it kindof sounds like I did. I'll ask on another board.

 

Well, if Ed took your money and now "runs", what makes you think someone else won't? How much more do you have to spend before you realize that you are wasing money? In accounting they refer to that as a "sunk cost".

The total cost need not be $300-400. With all the "freebies", the total cost can be under $200 easily. Depends how much "do it yourserlf" versus "store bought" programs like scan tools and Bin Editors you use.

As for time, there is an initial "up front investment" on your part to learn. But, how much time did you spend on learning on how to modify your motor already? Surely you didn't pay someone to do all those modifications.

The actual time you need to spend to learn the "mechanics"of burning can be shown in 15-30 minutes max. It is that simple. The actual time to learn WHAT to change in the bin takes more time - but that is what this board is for - to help tuning. This boarding is more about learning about "tuning techniques" once the simple mechanics of "burning" is learnt.

And those tuning techniques are applicable to basially ALL internal combustion engines - getting the mixture and spark right. Yes, the mechanics of it chagnes from engine to engine or from induction method to induction method (or even ECM to ECM). But the principles are remarkably similar.

In all honesty, all of my "tuning knowledge" was learnt on motorcycles 30 years ago. I've just learnt to apply it to an EFI car, and in particular SD F-body cars. And the best thing of all, once you learn it, you never have to relearn it again. It's strictly a "one time investment".

It's just that a some of the guys (myself included) chose to keep "tweaking and tweaking" trying to make the "tune" better and better. It truly does become a "labor of love".