I’m about to start a new 383TPI, what are the initial ECM constants and tables that should be changed in the EPROM assuming the following set up:

Super ram
30# injectors
AFR 190 heads
CAM motion 225/231 @ .050, .554/.560, 112 centerline
1.6 rockers
180 DEG thermostat
165 ECM, MAF for an 87 IROC TPI (originally 350)

I have the EPROM burning equipment, CATS program and WinALDL, I'm starting with an ARAP bin. The motor is in the car and I want to start with a chip that will not damage anything. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

If you mean start as in to break in the engine, I'd say use the stock bin. with the Injector Constant corrected and the fan On temp reduced. The last thing you want to be doing is figuring out the chip while trying to break in a cam.

There are a bunch of threads with the tweaks you need to do to use an ARAP in a retrofit. You might just cut and paste your spark table into the ARAP, and start that way.

 

Yes, I mean to break in the engine. When I got the car It had an
ADS superchip for 87 350TPI, I don't have the original GM bin.
Shoud I use the ADS chip?

Thanks,

 

Without knowing what exactly is in the ADS, I'd say use it as a paperweight.

There should be a bin file around that's stockish.
Might do a search here, or poke around the DIY-EFI.org site

 

The ADS Superchip for my car had horrible spark tables - worst than stock. A blind monkey typing haphazardly on a keyboard would get better results.

The only thing good about my ADS Superchip, I was able to pull the eprom and replace it with a Flash Prom for future programming.

 

:lala:

 

Nope, they aren't even good for that, not enough weight to em.

 

How about small sheets of paper in low wind conditions?.

 

Well, I suppose if you maybe encased it in a ball of glass or some such it would make a good paperweight and a good conversation piece.
I noticed ADS's injectors didn't do so well either, I think that co's rep ruined most of their new products. Never heard anything good about any of their chips other than if you got one for free you had a nice prom carrier.

 

I'm in the same boat as Primo.

On the injector constants, the single fire and double fire would both be set to 24 if I'm using 24 lb/hr injectors right?

 

Correct.

 

Is it desirable to have the cooling fan to come on a few degs after the thermostat opens and then turn the fan off after the thermostat closes?

 

I have mine set 5 deg to either side of the thermostat temp. That is a little narrower than the factory setting but seems to work out fine.

 

I would recommend that you turn off just a little before the rated temp of the T-stat. ie, if you are running a 180* T-stat, I'd turn on the fans at 185+ and off at 182-183.

Depending on the weather and ambient temp, even if the T-stat is "perfect" (but in reality they all are a little off), the T-stat will cause your H20 temp to be higher in warm weather than colder weather.

For example in summer, while cruising @ 60 mph on a level road on a hot day, my coolant temp often doesn't drop below 182*F while in winter the coolant temp under the same conditions may drop to 176*F. T-stats are not perfect. I definitely recommend monitoring it with a scan too.

If you set the fan off temp below the rated temp, your fans might not turn off on a warm day just because the T-stat keeps the coolant a little warmer on a warm day than a cold day.