Much has been discussed about the 33 error code and what causes it. For those who have done the normal things, such as, change out both relays, buy a new MAF sensor, check all of the wireing, and the code still presists, then you still have hope.

The only solution at this point is to have a chip burned. Only two things need to be changed, one in the switch table by unXing the MAF 33 code box, the second is to set the MAF 33 threshold value in the constants table to 255 (its stock at 45).

These two changes will get rid of the dreaded 33 code for good.
A fellow thirdgenner had the 33 error code after all of the usual advice (as I had done 4 or 5 years ago). As a test case, he came to me and I burned a chip for him with those two changes only. He drove the car back home (about 200miles) without the code coming back. This method was the only way I could get rid of the 33 code also, for me it was done by buying a custom chip from CARPRO. This was before my chip burning days.

 

Ahhh, what's up doc?

It's times like you mention above, that it makes you wonder how in the heck you ever survived without eprom burning?

 

Yeah, that's a nice little trick to know..


There needs to be a quick reference guide for problems & solutions when burning proms.

 

Yea, Glenn,

You would not believe all the trouble I had with that 33 code and the fustration that went with it. I do not understand why GM set such a low threshold value for the 33 code in the constants table.
The friend I help has a 305 with mild porting of the plenum but does have the SLP runners. That is enough change from stock to set the 33 code even if all the relays and MAF are just perfect fine.

I must have spent at least $200 on new parts to get rid of the code, and I ended up having to buy a custom prom for about $250 to get rid of it.

Anyway, I wanted to share this experience with you guys, it was an excellent before and after situation. Our fellow 3rdgenner is very happy with his car right now.

BTW: $32b is backwards compatable with the $32.