drop these guys a line.


www.pro-flow.com they can do custom sizes calibrations etc.

 

For 3rd Gens?
I looked all around and all I saw was the LT1 and LD1 MAF stuff.

There are some chuckles thou in reading thru their material.

 

Oh horrors!,
PLEASE excuse the typo, it should be LS1 not LD1.

 

no give them a call they will make one at your request.

 

Are you stating this as fact or speculation?.

 

as fact.

 

Well, golly they can.
For $100 they can change it to compensate for an injector change.
Maybe more, but at that price is just seemed obvious it wasn't going to be cost effective, compared to just editing the .bin.

The MAF sizing and suggestion page at their web site is also interesting.

 

Well if you were to use the PRO M 80mm you would be tripling the airflow capcity of the MAF sensor.That could offer alot of benifits. you guys are always ragging on and on about what a restriction the MAF sensor posses. here the solution. the PROM 80mm is also on sale if you looked around the colored ones ( other then black) $250 meter and filter. they have a box that drives the voltage up to GM standards Pull downs as the Ford electronics arent cpabale. still its cheaper then a stock replacemnt.

i dont know the price on the box but ill give them a ring and find out for sure,.

 

The Pro-M MAFs are good stuff. I've been using them for years on my Fords without any major problems. Had a few come out mapped wrong on the flow maps which threw off the dyno tuning for a bit, but they issued call tags to ship it back to them, then back to me at no charge on those instances. Customer service is great...

Their sampling tubes are easy to swap out too, but not nearly as easy as the C&L MAFs are. With the GM stuff... does anyone know if they use the same voltages as the thirdgen does? Nevermind... I don't want to know... building a MAF table from scratch is to time consuming...

 

Guess you can appreciate then my putting the 3.5 GM MAF guts in a 3" housing, and doing a from scratch MAF calibration. I had more time in that then my from scratch VE table. Both were using a 148 ecm.

 

Yes... we did a 80mm MAF swap to a supercharged 3L SVT Contour running on reflashed factory OBD-II ECU. 70mm MAF, non supercharged 2.5L from the factory. He was maxing out the MAF voltage at something like 4,500 RPMs and it needed to spin to 7,500... Let's see... cam duration, RPM of engine, flow of SC, multiply by this by square root of that... holding at steady RPM's on the dyno to get as many RPM points right as we could. Only took 80 hours of dyno time... to get a base map... Fun isn't it? I was only watching and helping and I don't want anything to do with it ever again!!!!!!! LOL! :hail:

 

I cheated, once I had things close enough for the engine to run, I was able to see a pattern emerging, and then used the ecm bench to rough things in. Then some serious in car time, working out the ripples to make it really nice and drivibile.

Not to be restating too much of the obvious, but it can really help to jump in when possible and get totally confused. Then try to make sense of what happened. Especially if on someone else's dime. It really does get easy with time.

 

Almost half of our time was spent positioning the MAF away from the blower to get it out of turbulence (no pattern forming at all in the early stages, which is how they knew), then finding out the race port head 4 valve per cylinder 3L could pull in more air than the SC was trimmed for, then upgrade the SC trim, which throws off the MAF tables we've already built...

 

We could debate the power losses of maf sensors themselve al day. in a draw thru Forced induction setup the gains wont be nearly as large as in a N/A setup.

As for rebuilding the MAF Tables. If the proper sensor is used for the apllication and its properly calibrated From the supplier then the MAF tables themselves shouldn't need work( note Shouldn't)

I only posted the information for guys who are planning on sticking with MAF but would like to free up whatever airflow is left. yes for a really big MAF the tables wouldnt need to be chagned unless the curve was screwy but other calcualting factor might need to be. Its all up in the air as to what would really need to be done. as soon as i can collect some info ill post it up.