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Can I run the ARAP Bin without changing it?

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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 07:41 PM
  #1  
Twilightoptics's Avatar
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From: Seattle, Washington
Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
Can I run the ARAP Bin without changing it?

'87 350 165ecm.

Can I run the ARAP bin, without changing it?

Aside from changing the injector constant to what it should be, disabling vats, fixing fans, and unplugging the cold start...

Can I just burn it and have my car run well?

There seem to be ALOT of differences in the arap bin to the stock 350 $32b bin. Since the $6 is hacked so much more and I can change so many things I think I'd like to use that, however I'm not sure what the stock parameters are with this.

I havn't been able to find a descent $32b ecu file to use with GMECM and my stock '87 350 bin or I'd start there.

I am currently having issues of a surging/searching idle in Park/Neutral, bad gas milage *16mpg hwy* and I have to crank the key for a while to get her to start.

Physically tuning is done and good. I am also going to attempt to tune for more power at the track, after I get these few bugs worked out.


Thanks
-Paul

Last edited by Twilightoptics; Jun 13, 2003 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Jun 13, 2003 | 08:04 PM
  #2  
Ed Maher's Avatar
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From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
It kinda has a lot of timing, but will work as is. Just keep an eye out for knock.
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Old Jun 14, 2003 | 06:02 AM
  #3  
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
The ARAP is just recommended as what to START WITH.

It was the last and most refined of the 6E bin files.

It's a high timing chip, and in the stock applications gave the best performance but with any engine modes is too much.
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Old Jun 14, 2003 | 06:08 AM
  #4  
Grumpy's Avatar
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Re: Can I run the ARAP Bin without changing it?

Originally posted by Twilightoptics

Aside from changing the injector constant to what it should be, disabling vats, fixing fans, and unplugging the cold start...

Can I just burn it and have my car run well?

There seem to be ALOT of differences in the arap bin to the stock 350 $32b bin. Since the $6 is hacked so much more and I can change so many things I think I'd like to use that, however I'm not sure what the stock parameters are with this.

I am currently having issues of a surging/searching idle in Park/Neutral, bad gas milage *16mpg hwy* and I have to crank the key for a while to get her to start.

Just to back up a little, you also want to make sure things are fine mechanically, before doing any chips.

And by changing injector constant I hope your not one into this idea of chaning inj constants to dial in the BLs.
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Old Jun 14, 2003 | 07:04 PM
  #5  
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From: Seattle, Washington
Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
I'm changing the injector constant so I'm not lying to the ECM with my 24lb SVOs.

I don't quite understand why you can't change the injector constant to get close in blms, but I know that's a large debate.

Not quite sure what to change in the fact that some people say play with the MAF tables, and some say don't touch them.

Mechanically everything is working to the best of my knowledge. The only thing I would be unsure about would be the EGR valve because I don't know how to check it, though I'm not throwing any codes.

My Maf is good as are the relays, along with the plugs, wires, etc.
I am going to RE-clean my IAC this afternoon in hopes of helping an idle situation.

As for modifications, I am a big modded. See Sig:

Last edited by Twilightoptics; Jun 14, 2003 at 09:18 PM.
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