Another day is done and I think I have managed to get a LOT done toward completion of my Jeep+GM engine project. Here's a quick rundown:
1.) New MAT, O2, CTS, and ignition module installed; ignition module adapted to the DuraCrap distributor
2.) ALDL cable built using the 160-baud ALDL interface design that uses the DTR port of my OLD PC to (hopefully) provide the 12VDC power (Talk about EASY to build for $12 worth of RadioShack parts! I can't believe people sell that for nearly $40!)
3.) ALDL interface mounted under Jeep dash panel
4.) New TPS adjustment jumper harness built (I couldn't find the first one I built for the Holley ProJection system)
Here's where I may be stuck...
First off, if the ALDL cable works like I hope it should, WinALDL will let me see what's going on. Is there a way to adjust PROM parameters from within WinALDL or even TunerPro without having to actually burn a new chip? I am a poor grad student and that $100 that I am gonna spend on a Pocket Programmer will just have to wait until the first of January. I'd really like to have the Jeep running before then if possible. Please help...
Next, with the new .bin (modified ANLU .bin), will I have to do a lot of tuning or will the ANLU tables (VE, etc.) be enough to run the engine for a while? The engine is a VERY healthy V8 with a more-than-warm cam (Summit Racing 8600: 272/288 adv. dur., .472/.496 lift @ valves, 114 centerline) and a well built set of OEM AMC V8 heads. I realize I will have to do a little bit of tuning to get things just right. With all the stuff I have been reading about BLM cells and all, it sounds like this tuning thing can take a good while.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TIA!

 

you'll have to do some tuning to get that thing drivable. If your using a stock 350 tb and injectors then you might get it to idle and get you around the block with just a fuel pressure change.

That cam is healthy to get tuned to a tbi setup for your first try at tuning. I'm having a little bit of a problem with a cam slightly smaller. It's not that you can't do it, it's entirely doable but just a little tricky for your first time.

Also the stock 350 tb will have you choked about 2000 rpm's after that cam starts workin and you'll be way outta fuel by 3500. Long story short I had 350 injectors when I thought I had 454 injectors and I basically ran outta injector by 4 grand. Thats with the fuel pressure maxed at 16 psi. I got my new stiffer spring that'll allow me to get 20 psi and that should let me get by with the 350 injectors but you really need the bigger TB.

Let me know if I can be of assistance, been there and screwed that up with the swapping thing, it's worth it but you just gotta be ready to spend some time and a little cash on it.

 

I'll take all the help I can get. I know that I know pretty much squat about this tuning thing.
Where would be a good place to start with the tuning? The TB is from the Caprice cop car and so is the BIN I am using. I would guess that the injectors are the same ones used with the stock TB unless they were changed for a cop car. All I have done to the BIN is set the EGR On Temp to 0 so that I don't have to figure out how to fool the computer into thinking the EGR valve is there...the Performer AMC manifold is a non-EGR manifold. If there is anything I can do to make it driveable before I get it all ready to drive, that would be great....just the basics for now and I'll figure out the rest as I go along...with a little help of course.
The cam is advertised to have an rpm range of 1500 to 5500 rpm. So you are saying that I will be out of fuel availability by the time I hit 3500rpm? This thing won't see that kind of rpm on a regular basis unless I am cruising it down Padre Island at some wild assed speed in 4WD. It'll see higher rpms when some punk kid in a ***** thinks the Jeep is nothing but exhaist noise and some neat paint and stainless steel stuff.
Thanks for the help....I definitely need it.

 

Yeah from my experience the injectors will be about done by 3500 to 4000 rpm and the TB will go higher but it'll be a major restriction on the system. As for drivability you have to crank up the fuel pressure. I would get the fuel pressure regulator from top down solutions (there at the top of the page) and give her 18-20 psi.

It souds like you have the burning equipment so you'll be able to start from there. You need to look for the "BPW egr off" This is basically the injector constant for TBI computers. Start out at 120 or so and go up or down untill the engine will idle. You'll need to start looking at your BLM's once the engine is up and running and warm. Higher than 128 is lean lower is rich. Try to get it in the ball park plus or minus 5 is decent.

This is at idle, from there you'll need to start tweaking the the VE table. Let me know when you get that far.

Opps just read your first post again...you don't have your own burner. Thats a bummer.....You can just try to fiddle with the fuel pressure and get the blm's in the ball park. They will peg over at like 108 if your way rich and 145 if your way lean. Just try to get them between there and it'll get you from point a to b but no whipping hodaa's.

Also what are you doing for a speed sensor? Thats used to indicate when your idleing and various other things. It's really important and not somthing you want to take the time to disable. Just went through that with a guy who swapped a tpi in his jeep. Ended up just fooling the cpu by cranking up the tps...not a good idea but since it's mass air flow it works kinda....half assed and duct taped but he's happy. I really don't know how the thing idles.

 

Well, as long as it gets me from here to there that will work for now until I can get the thing tuned. I guess I'll have to splurge the $$ for that pressure regulator you are talking about.
I haven't gotten the VSSB from a junkyard yet. I have to go junkyard jumping because my local parts houses didn't even show the part on their lookup screens. As for the sensor itself (not the buffer) I am planning to get a speedo cable out of a Wagoneer that has a speed sensor (generator) already in-line. It has the leads for the voltage signal to the buffer.
I have already tweaked the BIN to get rid of the EGR stuff. My manifold doesn't have an EGR provision. I don't recall seeing anything like BPW EGR Off when I was looking at the BIN using TunerPro RT and the 8746 def file I have. I'll look again. It looks like I'll be spending a lot of time in the driveway just getting the thing to idle. I guess that $12 I spent for the ALDL cable parts was a well-spent $12.
This AFR thing is gonna be tricky...I really don't want to burn new valves in these heads....they were NOT cheap to have worked up.
Thanks for the help...I'll definitely be keeping in touch.
EDIT
Half-assed and duct-taped? ROTFLMAO...that sounds like WAYYYY too many Jeepers that I have known in the past. One fellow Jeeper actually used two wires in the cab to crank his engine. The ignition switch was trashed and he was too damn cheap to get a new one. His paint job wasn't even paint...it was roll-on bedliner!
Okay...I just found what you were talking about. It doesn't say EGR Off. It just says BPW Constant. I am assuming this is the injector Base Pulse Width constant. It is currently set at 135. From what I have been reading, it sounds like the BPW is modified by the ECM by taking O2 sensor, TPS, and MAP signals into account. I even looked at the code for the 8746 ECM and there was some stuff in there about calculating pulse width that seemed to take the BPW into account. Anyway, I just set it at 120 and saved the modified BIN. Will this show any changes in the tables that I can see as of right now?

 

Just looked at that FPR from the link at the top of the page. Did you get that one or did you just get the stiffer spring? Which spring part# did you get for the increased fuel pressure? I do see how the vacuum adjustable fuel pressure would be a bonus. From what I can tell, it looks like the set-up they are advertising is a kit made up out of existing off-the-shelf GM parts. I guess that vacuum FPR would need a ported vacuum source. Hmmm...good idea. I may just look into getting the parts to make it up myself here in Texas. It seems simple enough.
Again, I am a poor grad student. I could probably get a friend in the Computer Science dept to burn the PROMs for me until that PROMinator is ready for production (count me in on that one). I know that having the stuff to burn PROMs is pretty cheap when you really think about it, but $$ is at a premium until I get outta grad school in a little over a year.

 

Definetly look into getting your friend to help you out. Most electrical departments have a burner of some kind. One or two well planned chips can get you along way.

I just got the stiffer spring but it looks like the 20 psi won't be enough still can't get past 5000 rpm, it's better than before but still maxing out the injectors.

You might want to look into my long post on the tbi board titles "tuning issues". Goes indepth on the whole static injector issue.

 

I have been following that post intently. I even responded once with a suggestion for your ignition woes. As of right now, I am looking for that particular friend that may be able to help burn chips.
Thanks for your help...I sure need it.