When doing the min idle adjustment and you short A-B, there is a fast extend mode, and the pintle will fully extend in just a couple seconds. The reason for waiting a min before unplugging it, is to *knock* any carbon loose so the pintle fully seats in it's orfice.

Depending on your housing, phase of the moon, etc... The fully extended position should generate a measurement of about .96" from the flat part of the IAC to the rear of the pintle.

Pintle (the cone shaped piece on the end of the shaft).

And if you swap IACs and nothing seems right be sure to check it's extended lenght. If it runs backwards, then just swap one set of colored leads, ie Grn/Blk, with Grn/Wht. Swapping all four does nothing. So double check your work when your done to be sure.

And there are IACs that externally the same but are different inside, so that even if wired one way, still work backwards.

 

Guess, why they do so many IAC resets code wise?.

The IAC can get confused, and start operating backwards. Doing the min idle reset, resets it.

 

Well, I was just going to get a new IAC from like autozone and throw it on the car. Guess this is a little more involved than one amy think. Thanks for the heads up.

 

Can a car be tuned to idle around 900rpm, w/out an IAC?

I was thinking of going with a monoblade tb that I have, but with doing so I wouldn't have an iac..

??

-- Joe

 

Some people dont use the iac,some do. So yes it will work. BUT it wouldn't be too hard to make an iac passage.From what I understand, you'll have little or no cold start ability w/o the iac,FYI....

 

Just off hand the 87ish 3.8L FWD cars have a housing for the IAC. All you need to do is make a 1/4" plate and tap two pipe threads in it, then run hoses pre and post butterfly and you have an IAC.

Depending on application, the IAC is usually your friend, but can take some time to work out the philosphical differences.