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165 to 808 - Wierd problem

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Old Mar 4, 2004 | 11:33 PM
  #1  
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From: Makakilo
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
165 to 808 - Wierd problem

I got through converting to SD from MAF via the 808 code. As I started to take a short spin around the block to test drive, I noticed something strange.

With the car in gear and from a dead stop, I release the brake and as the car starts to roll forward until it reaches ~10mph, it all of a sudden starts to accelerate as if I were gently stepping on the gas pedal.

Also, when I coming to a complete stop, the engine idles really high ~1200 RPMs in gear then suddenly drops to 700 RPMs(normal RPM in gear) after a second or two.

I unplugged the wire that the ECU uses to send the timing to the distributor (EST/ESC ?) and the problem went away. Do I leave it unplugged and tune from there or is there a table(s) that I should fiddle with to fix the problem?

I am currently using both TunerCats $5D version and the '808 ecu from diy-efi ftp server if that is of any help.

Jeff
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 05:18 AM
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The copy of the $5d .ECU I downloaded from the DIY site had a few errors in it and they showed when loading into Tunerpro. Did you have any problems there?

Is your SES light working?

John
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 01:48 PM
  #3  
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From: Makakilo
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
I guess I forgot to add in my first post that I am using WinBin to edit the '808 ecu.

As far as my SES light working, I had to repin one of the ECU wires, I think it was A8 or something like that, in order to get WinALDL to start logging and the SES doesnt work till I replace the pin in its original position.

Before doing the repin, when I stuck a 10k resistor in the ALDL to do some logging, the SES flickered really weird like it wanted to light up fully but it didnt... If you know what I mean

Jeff
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 09:37 PM
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As far as my SES light working, I had to repin one of the ECU wires, I think it was A8 or something like that...
I bet you wished you'd taken Grumpy's advice and taken notes as you went along .

The SES (ECM) light on an '808 with $5d is on pin A5. Hook it up there and you should be able to see if you're in limp mode or not.

The flickering you saw when you had the 10k resistor in just sounds like the normal ECM light pattern when data logging.

Try reconnecting the EST and then shorting pins A and B on the ALDL connector. This locks the timing below 2000 rpm, and it should confirm the timing issue.

It's difficult to understand exactly what could be the problem when you could have either wiring issues or chip quality issues.

John
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 10:14 PM
  #5  
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From: Makakilo
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
Thanks for the help JohnL. As you can see in my sig, I have the 305 and I am currently looking at the injector constant value in the bin, its something really wierd like 0.160xxxxxxx its not stated in #'s like the 165 so my thinking is I need to get the injector constant value correct and start tuning from there. I have no idea what it is suppose to be for a 305 w/19.5/lbs.

BTW I am using the file called "ATJN 5D.bin".

In the mean time, when day time comes tomorrow, Ill change the pins and make sure I got them in the right place.

OH one very important thing, where did you hook up the vacuum line that runs from the MAP sensor? I heard it CANT be "Tee'd" as it needs it own source of vacuum. I connected it to the port thats next the EGR port on the plenum and left the hose that was originally there unconnected on the side...

Jeff
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Old Mar 6, 2004 | 01:13 AM
  #6  
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From: Makakilo
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
Ok update, I just checked my wiring, didnt make any changes yet. To make things exact I did a direct swap between wires A8 and A5 coming from the ECU. When I stuck A8 into A5 slot, was the A5 wire it to be left disconnected?

Jeff
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Old Mar 6, 2004 | 03:15 AM
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I don't know what you had connected to A5 in the first place, so I can't advise you. I thought there was a '165 wiring diagram in the original Tomcat post on the '808 swap.

BTW, the Holden Memcals site indicates that ATJN is an HSV bin- and these often have a knock sensor and more aggressive timing. You'll need to ensure you either use a KS, turn the KS code off in the bin, or use a resistor on the KS wire.

John
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Old Mar 6, 2004 | 05:39 AM
  #8  
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Originally posted by Sp0nGa

OH one very important thing, where did you hook up the vacuum line that runs from the MAP sensor? I heard it CANT be "Tee'd" as it needs it own source of vacuum. I connected it to the port thats next the EGR port on the plenum and left the hose that was originally there unconnected on the side
Some EGR valves have a small bleed orfice in them.
Run it on it's own dedicated line, if you want to make sure the MAP is getting the right signal.
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Old Mar 6, 2004 | 03:18 PM
  #9  
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From: Makakilo
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700r4
Thank you - Thank you.

I did some logging earlier by just letting the car idle. When in neutral/park, it was getting ~50-52 kPa @ 775-825RPM. Once I put the car in gear, the kPa goes all the way up to ~70-73 kPa @ 650-750RPM... Is that normal? Im running the LT4HC Im sure that may contribute somehow right

Jeff
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Old Mar 6, 2004 | 09:36 PM
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From: Sydney
Originally posted by Grumpy
Some EGR valves have a small bleed orfice in them.
Run it on it's own dedicated line, if you want to make sure the MAP is getting the right signal.
No EGR on Oz cars with '808's Bruce.

What do you think about the MAP at idle?- sounds too high.

That sort of low vac indicates the kind of problems that Traxion's been describing with idle in his posts. Oxygen sucked straight through on valve overlap misleads the ECM's interpretation of the O2S data.

John
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