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trying to diagnose a bad idle....

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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 06:23 PM
  #1  
KYL98's Avatar
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From: Northern Kentucky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
trying to diagnose a bad idle....

Hey just wondering what my MAP sensor should read at idle on my laptop?? I thought it was my 02 sensor(Bosch) so I replaced it with the OEM AC/Delco, but no change. It seems to show its running rich at idle on my laptop, but it idles like it has a vacuum leak.....I checked the voltage on the MAP sensor a while back, but cannot remember what its supposed to be. Can anybody tell me what kind of voltage I should be getting and what KpA it should be showing???? Thanks in advance......

BTW, can anbody think of what else might cause my idle to start acting up right before and after the car is in closed loop? I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and the T-stat(195*) and checked the timing a while back....all of which didnt help. I dont want to just start throwing parts on it, or take it to a shop and pay out the butt, but Im running out of options here......HELP!!!!
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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 10:12 PM
  #2  
KYL98's Avatar
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From: Northern Kentucky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
I had a fellow member on here tell me I could have a vacuum leak if my IAC counts are below 10 at "hot" idle.... any truth in that???? Im only showing anywhere between 3-7 at idle.....does that mean I have a vacuum leak or the TB blades are open too much?? What kind of IAC counts should I look for at idle???? Anybody???
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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 10:29 PM
  #3  
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Re: trying to diagnose a bad idle....

Originally posted by KYL98
Hey just wondering what my MAP sensor should read at idle on my laptop??
It can be between 40-70 K/Pa.

IAC counts at idle can be 0-30, depending on the way you have things adjusted.

Vacuum leaks can be REALLY tricky to find and cure. If you have any suspesions, then do what ever it takes to make sure, there aren't any.
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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 10:35 PM
  #4  
KYL98's Avatar
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From: Northern Kentucky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
I just kinda ruled out vacuum leaks because it starts DIRECTLY before and after closed loop. I did do a dumb thing while back....I started the car while adj for min air...BUT the jumper was still between A&B on the ALDL...oops BUT the car ran fine for about a week after that....so I assumed my ESC didnt fry..lol Anything else I could look at? Check fuel pressure again?? I just kinda ruled all of that out because of the idle just acting up after closed loop....Im lost on this one....Its about time to pay to have it hooked up to the scope...lol
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Old Mar 15, 2004 | 07:39 PM
  #5  
KYL98's Avatar
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From: Northern Kentucky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Grumpy, I noticed something today that I havent noticed before. I was adjusting for min air for the IAC....and I let the car idle WITHOUT the IAC, just with the TB. The car idles the same without it...so I can rule the IAC out. The funny thing I noticed was the car went OUT of closed loop, and back into open loop while sitting there idling.....is that normal?? It was when I had the IAC unplugged so I dont know if thats ok or not. I also tried a new TPS sensor for kicks...with no change in idle. I also put a new ign coil on but with the same results as the TPS sensor. I unplugged the ESC bypass to see if maybe it's bad....but it didnt change anything either. I checked my injectors again at operating temp...and the resistance of 6 of the 8 injectors was NOT in spec.....so hopefully they are the culprit. My MAP sensor was showing around 32KpA @ idle in park...and over 40KpA in Drive....so Im hoping there's not a vacuum leak. I also tried unhooking the vacuum line to the EGR valve itself...with no results....Should I just replace the injectors and hope thats it???? Or should I keep checking....
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