I got the car running several days ago. Since then, I've been trying to get the VE tables tuned, mainly from 1600 rpm down. I have tried having the vacuum reservoir hooked up for my power brakes, and having it disconnected. Idling at 750-800 rpm, about 50 kpa without the vacuum reservoir, and about 45 kpa with it hooked up.

Its gotten about 10 degrees warmer and the humidity has gone up since the last time I was playing with the VE tables. I had the BLMs at idle around 125. I go outside today, and they are at 108. Dropped the VE using the following formula, and the BLMs don't move.

New VE = Old VE * (BLM/128)

I did the same thing two more times, and it still won't move. The INT is fluctuating around from like 115 to 130, I'm in BLM cell 4, closed loop, learn enabled. O2 is crossing about 255 times in 5 seconds.

I took the car for a drive, and I couldn't get the BLMs to move anywhere. There were quite a few instances where the INT was steady at 128, but the BLM was still 108. What can cause that?

I was a little worried before because my lower VE table is ALOT leaner than the stock AUJP, and quite a bit leaner than any VE table I've seen posted with this cam.

Keep in mind its still very rough and needs alot of work, but just for the sake of comparison, this is my current lower VE table.

36.28 34.72 36.28 43.69 49.16 53.45 55.01 55.01 55.40 57.35 61.64 67.10 72.95
36.28 33.94 35.89 40.57 48.77 49.94 53.45 53.84 55.01 57.35 59.30 63.98 67.88
35.11 34.72 33.16 36.28 44.47 48.77 53.45 53.06 55.01 57.35 59.30 61.64 65.15
35.11 33.16 31.99 32.77 40.18 46.42 52.67 53.06 54.23 57.35 59.30 61.64 65.15
33.16 32.38 31.99 29.65 37.45 44.08 50.72 52.28 53.84 57.35 59.30 61.25 65.15
32.38 31.21 31.21 30.43 33.55 40.18 46.81 51.50 53.45 56.57 58.52 60.86 65.15
30.43 30.04 30.43 28.09 31.99 39.79 46.42 50.72 52.28 55.40 58.13 60.08 64.37
28.87 28.87 28.48 27.31 30.82 36.28 42.13 49.55 51.50 55.01 56.96 60.08 63.59
27.31 26.14 27.31 26.53 29.65 33.16 38.62 48.77 50.72 54.62 56.57 59.30 63.20
26.92 24.97 26.14 25.36 27.70 33.16 34.72 45.25 48.38 53.45 56.18 59.30 62.81
24.58 24.19 25.75 24.58 28.09 31.60 32.77 42.13 46.42 51.11 53.84 56.96 61.25
21.46 21.07 22.63 24.19 26.14 30.43 31.99 38.23 42.91 46.81 50.33 53.06 58.52
17.17 17.17 19.12 23.02 24.58 27.31 31.21 36.28 40.57 44.47 49.16 52.67 58.52

 

Personaly I think its impossible to get them perfect. But then again im new at this.

 

If it's running "ruff" then I'd look at the ignition. Running really rich but still running and running really lean, but still running usually indicate it's ignition that's the issue. Check EVERYTHING because with a misfiring cylinder the o2 sensor won't report correctly and the result will be abnormal BLMs.
This is where a romulator/prominator/ostrich/autoprom come in handy. The RT tuning would help you diagnose this in a jiffy.

 

Sorry, I guess I didn't describe things clearly. Its not running rough at all. I meant that the VE tables were rough in the sense that its in its early stages. I've been focusing on the 30 to 60 kpa range, not paying much attention outside that range at the moment.

The car runs great. With the exception of a bit of a surge at low rpm in gear, you wouldn't think it needed much more tuning. Great power throughout the rpm range. I'm sure theres alot more to improve on, but its not running bad at all. I'm just complaining about the BLMs which won't move (even though the INT is moving quite a bit).

The VE tables have ALOT less VE in them than when I started with the AUJP. No matter how much fuel I pull out, the BLMs won't move from 108. I have tried unplugging the ECM from power, so that the BLMs restart at 128. After closed loop kicks in, it starts dropping to 108 again. I kept following the same tuning formula I metioned, and got to the point where the car lost its throttle response, and I noticed it a little sluggish compared to before. The BLMs at this point were still 108. I ended up restoring the bin to how it was before I posted this.

I guess my question is this....what can cause the BLMs to not move?

By the way, I have an A/F gauge inside the car. I am not relying on it for tuning, just have it to make sure it doesn't run lean on WOT and to make sure the O2 is functioning properly in closed loop. I just noticed today that at idle, it will sometimes light up almost all the lights momentarily. In other words, reading rich and lean at the same time. Could this be a sign of an exhaust leak? I haven't noticed an exhaust leak at all, and I tried putting the car in 6th at around 1600 rpm and stepping on it abit so its under load. I still couldn't hear an exhaust leak.

 

Your over worrying. I had those lights in a few of my cars. It seems like after a few months they start getting glitchy like that. If you play with the wires some times it goes away.

 

It only does it at idle though. I've already verified that all the header and collector bolts are tight. I'll try to check the plugs soon to see what they look like. I can smell it running rich almost all the time, so I can already guess what they'll look like.

 

How long have you had the gauge hooked up?

 

I put it in the car in October of last year I think, but the car wasn't running then. Its probably had under 10 hours of use on it.

 

Could it possibly be triggering dMAP accel? Just a thought, and probably isn't happening. Also what headers do you have, and is the O2 heated? Also, when it pegs at 108, is the integrator still allowing the O2 to switch?

On another note, I don't believe the crosscounter is an actual count of crosses in a direct 1:1 relationship. It's pretty hard to get the O2 sensor to switch more than 5 times per second and that's at a little load. Idle should have a slower switch rate. If anyone has actual evidence to this being incorrect, please share it. The other day, on an engine dyno, with our company's ECU (I'm in China now, calibrating for Euro 2/3), I cranked up the Integrator steps and jumps (gain and steps) to see how quick I can get our new computer to switch the little 1L 4 cyl, and it was pretty quick, but no where near 255 times in 5 seconds. If you look at a high speed log of an O2 sensor output on your car, you'll probably see the same thing.

Good luck finding the problem.

 

Bad o2 sensor, unheated, poor gauge interferance. It doesn't sound like an exhaust leak but it does sound like you've got an issue with the o2 sensor signal.
Definatly plot the actual o2 voltage vs time.

 

I'll go ahead and plot that, and come back with the results. The O2 is fairly new, and heated. The headers are Hooker Comps 1 5/8, but I'm not sure what that would change.

 

I couldn't get Tuner Pro to datalog. Even time I record something and I go play it, it turns the datalog into 1/0 samples, and plays nothing. I've recorded around 30 datalogs since I got the car running, not sure whats going on now. One more thing for me to do. Anyway, I've been looking at the O2 crosscounts both yesterday and today, and it isn't going anywhere near the 255 crosses in 5 second rate. Its going much slower right now. I'll try to fix the dataloging problem so I can post a plot of the O2 cross counts vs time, and also O2 voltage.

By the way, I noticed my TPS voltage wasn't moving as much as it is supposed to, and took a closer look at it. It wouldn't read anything beyond .71 volts. Put another one in there that I had here at home, and the car is running alot better. I tried to monitor tps voltage while flooring it in 4th, and the voltage never got past about 2.5 volts. Isn't is supposed to reach around 4 volts or so? If so, this one must be bad as well. I have it adjusted to .53 volts right now.

I think the car got sluggish not because I had pulled fuel out, but because of the TPS. It really was rich still, I just thought that it lost throttle response because of pulling out fuel, which confused me because the BLMs were still 108.

Now that it has throttle response back, I disconnected the ecm from power to reset it, and kept working on the bin. I got the lower tables with BLMs in the mid or low 120s by bringing the injector constant up to 26 ( I have 24s though). Now I think I am running lean past 2000 rpm or so. Oh well, need to tune some more.

Thanks for all your help so far guys.

 

Check the wiring on the TPS to be sure you have the 5V supply and that they are on the correct pins. Also you may want to check the MAP and IAC are correct as well. Many little things can go wrong when swapping the motor if you did any harness work at the same time.