I have been browsing this board for the past few days cramming everything I see along with taking notes on a notepad. BTW I am starting out with an ARAP bin w/ stock 89 timing tables.

This is how I see it.....please correct me if I am wrong.

I need to adjust the fan temps to work around my thermostat. Trial and error is the best way to learn this.

Starting:

Delete the cold start injector (or unplug it)
Adjust the:
"Crank Fuel PW Multiplier vs. Ref. Pulse"
"Crank Fuel PW vs. Coolant Temp" and
"Crank Fuel PW vs. TPS"
IF the car is hard to start

To tune Part throttle:

Adjust the Injector constants and possibly the MAF tables (?)

Datalog and tune the following (for Part Throttle):

* BPW Fuel vs. Load (for $32B) or the MAF Scalar (for $6E) - noting the BLMs and INT's during datalogging and adjusting to get a consistant 124-130 BLM range

LV8 table to adjust the timing under part throttle conditions

The main goal here is to get a consistant BLMs of 124-130, closer to a consistant 128 BLM the better and very little to no knock.

BLMs of 127 and less = Richer
BLMs of 129 and more = Leaner

* Editing the MAF Scalar - Lower the number to run leaner or raise the number to run richer.

WOT tuning:

The big thing here is to get a W/B O2 setup for proper tuning of WOT

Adjustments include:
Forcing PE mode early and tune PE tables (also because of 255 MAF limit was mentioned)
PE vs. rpm table

Gas Milage:

You only want PE mode during WOT and no PE mode during cruising.

Keep the TC locked up even if you let off of the throttle and possibly lockup the TC sooner (based on MPH/RPM)


Random notes:

This is stuff I am still trying to figure out:

Since I am going with a PROMinator, I'll need to program 1 bin for Performance (PE mode engaged early) and 1 bin for gas milage (PE mode only during WOT, TC lockup early etc.).

Closed loop vs. Open loop:

Based on threads on here, alot of people are having better luck forcing the ECM to stay in Open loop so everything they change will not be modified by the ECM in Closed loop.

To do this all I would have to do is:
Raise closed loop enable temp really high (say 300*)
lock the min/max BLM's to 128
set the min/max coolant for BLM update really high (say 300*)

Based on what I have read.......closed loop is constantly adjusting the tune with readings from the O2 (leaner) while open loop does what we program the bin to do.

During cruising though the car should be in closed loop and only go into open loop if I say go WOT right? So essentially closed loop is for better gas milage and open loop is better for performance?

My head is starting to hurt now so I think I will stop there. All comments and/or corrections are welcome.

Edit - Updated. Marked with an *

 

U sound like you are on the right path.

U have managed to search for answers and asked the right questions. (Lots easier when the question makes sense :-))

Make small changes at first, and take lot of notes, then u will begin to notice trends.

Think about what you are trying to do, if the stock t-stat is 195 and the fans come on @ 200 and off at 190 then your 180deg stat, you should try your fans on at 185 and off at 175.

This works for some things and wont on others. Take notes, note trends and when searching doenst provide the next clue, feel free to post a question.

I've been playing with this for 3-4 yrs now and am just now learngin all the gritty in's and out's of the MAF setups. Up till now everything was speed density. The learngin curve never seems to stop.

later
Jeremy

 

Since you have an 88' you will have 32 code. You need to leave the cold start injector plugged in with this code. If you go with the 89' 6E code, then you can unplug the cold start injector or eliminate it. That is unless they are going to be looking for it during a smog check......

Edit: Duh!!!!!!! You mentioned the 89 ARAP code.... My bad!!!!!!

 

Closed loop has actually got me better gas mileage because my cam has a bit more duration than stock (280 advertised, 224 at .050 = quite a bit on a basically stock 305). I rebuilt the MAF tables with a little less air at low values to combat the possible reverse pulse in airflow that the MAF could read at low RPMs, but nothing worked untit I went to closed loop. After that, the idle was steady (albeit at a bit higher RPM than stock) and the total rich stank at idle went away.

 

You won't need different bins for performance and for mileage. These are two separate areas of the tune and both can be had on the same bin. PE mode isn't engaged until after a certain minimum throttle position is reached (in the '746 at least). Mileage has more to do with highway mode, getting the lower VE tables correct (so the car doesn't burn through a lot of fuel in open loop) and TCC lockup for auto cars.

 

He means the MAF tables. VE is from speed density!