When in end of march i will go 250 miles away from my town I will take back my vette (90 SD 8D '727) with a completely different engine.
From a basically stock 355 engine to a 383 with trickflow heads, lpe 219 cam and 1.6 roller rockers and a ford motorsport 24 lb/h injector set. It will be with a Full superram intake.
My problem is that I have to do the trip to my house (250 miles away...) with the new engine and the old chip (good for the actual near stock configuration -stock cam, stock intake, stock alum heads-)
I will burn a chip to use when I will take the car.
I thougt to burn a chip with the inj. constant changed, the cylinder volume changed, some deg take out on the SA tables, lower some VE numbers on the 800-900 rpm range in the 50-55 kpa range, And generally a bit of more fuel an all rpm....
The trip to return to my house will be 90% highway...without invoking PE.
Which other mods I can burn to the chip in order to do a safe trip?
An idea on how thw VE curve will be with these mods?
Thanks
-Beppe-

 

If you can afford an engine costing that much I would recommend having it delivered to your house.

If you can't afford that engine then you can't afford to blow it up and I would recommend having it delivered to your house.

That way you can do a proper break-in and log some data before worrying about an oil leak or stuff like that while you are trying to get home. Just too many things to watch for the first time you fire up an engine. This is just an opinion, someone with more tuning knowledge may be able to help you figure out a chip for the trip. I just prefer taking the safe way out.

 

My first engine swap was the motor I have in my camaro and it got a 540mile break in test drive on a stock 350 cop car chip with only TCC table changes.
You should be fine if you don't touch the tables. For one thing, GM made the open loop rather rich so you'll be safe on cold start so long as you've adjusted the constants (cyl vol and injector size). Also, the 383 moves the power band down in RPM, the heads and cam move it up. So you're peak torque with that stroke/cam/heads/intake should all be right around stock, maybe a tad higher. In other words, just add about 5-8% across the whole VE curve (because of the high efficiency parts). As for timing, aluminum heads, aluminum heads, you should be okay to just no touch the timing. Might want to disable highway mode but other than that, drive it. I have serious doubts that you'll have any troubles cruising in closed loop. That's just my opinion, please don't complain if there is a problem, I'm just telling you what I would do.

 

You could get a WB and and emulator setup.
Then just see where your at and adjust the tables while driving.
Or if you can datalog, just a wb and your burner.
The 24's might be a little small at WOT without more fuel pressure. But I'd think would be fine at cruise.
You could also just use a wb and adjust FP as needed.
Definitely not the best way to do it.
Might want to move your blm limit just to give you a little more room just in case it you don't tune along the way.

 

It's 2 year I'm collecting parts for this engine...
and the engine does not costs so much if you consider that i spent money in two years. The engine builder offered to build the engine at no cost because it is a friend of mine and a real guru here in Italy on SB chevrolet. He make engines for pleasure and not for money. His 427 small block with over 560 hp (without power adders) it's real music to hear..
The "home delivery" will cost an arm and a leg shifting the "economy" project to a "costly " project.
In any case I thank you for your advice (i considered it me too..)
Thanks again.
-Beppe-

 

about the answers of Jprevost and Z69 I want to thank you for the advises.
Please try to see if this way can be good:
before to fire up the new engine:
I will change cylinder volume and injectors constant .
I will raise VE values by 5-8 % accross the board.
I will scan the engine for the first 30-40 miles.
I will see if I'm totally out on closed loop on BLMs (under 108 or over 160).
If I will be out of values, I stop the engine and on a gas station I will try to burn a chip with new values on VE tables....hoping the battery of the laptop will lasts
Do you think is a good thing to add in the chip (for safety reasons) some additional AE and some more fuel on PE?
Thanks
-Beppe
-edit- oh yes, I will remove HW mode ...-

 

I wouldn't richen up the PE afr, if anything I'd set it all to 12.8 across the board. If you've got a cat you might want to leave the PE stock.
As for AE, yeah, richen that up a tad, maybe 4/3's, shouldn't need much more than that if you add it to both dTPS and dMAP tables.
Obviously BLMs around 128 is nominal for a cat'd car in closed loop. So if the BLMs are showing a major drift one way or the other then yeah, change the VE table. Let us know how it goes and if you've got any datalogs I'd like to see them seeing as I'm always curious.

 

15 days ago I drived the car to the builder.
This Friday I made the travel from the builder to my house.
No bigger problems.
Car run strong , only the idle is a bit rougly until the car is warmed up.
When i start the car (a cold car) I have to help the idle with a bit of gas pedal. When 120 or 130 °F coolant temp are reached the car idles good. (I set the idle at 750 via chip..)
I don't think is a question of open/closed loop because if I restart the car when warm it idles good (and the car at the restat is in Open loop..).
Yes I'm at 108 BLM at idle when in closed loop (expected), burned a new chip with lowered VE lower table at 700 900 rpm in the 45 - 60 Map area. Tonight I will se if this can improves a bit the idle.
The cam is an LPe 219 and it idles (warm) at a steady 57-58 Kpa at 750 rpm in D. and at about 48 Kpa at 800 rpm in N or P.
Are these good vacuum numbers for a mild/medium cam as the 219? 57 Kpa should be about 13 in Hg vacuum and 48 Kpa is around 16 in HG vacuum.
Thanks for your help.
-Beppe-

 

That sounds about right. You're adjusting the VE table with a warm engine and that's good. It's an easy mistake to look at a cold start and see too rich and then go over to the open loop AFR vs CTS table and lean it out, only to then go to the VE table when in closed loop, and now you're lean on cold starts. You've apparently avoided that trap .
That idle sounds normal.

 

I decreased the VE on the lower RPm and in the 45-60 map area.
I'm at 124- 126 BLM now. (it was 108)
I Increased also idle in D from 750 to 800 and it idles perfectly even on cold start.
I have the IAC counts a bit on the high side now...

I will use the screw on the TB in order to decrease the IAC help.
Thanks
-Beppe-