Am I missing something obvious?

Exactly how do u split the case in two once you remove the backing plates for the case?

Its exposed and all the screws are out?

Just the lower board is semi attached to the other side of the case w/ hot glue?

any tips/clues here?

thanks
Jeremy

 

Well a little heat to undo the hot glue for the ribbon cable inside and I got the side off and it opened enough to access.

Now to desolder the socket and replace it with the sockets mister moates sent me.

Any tips here or am I just going for it :-)

Going to heat it up slightly and then attempt to desolder the joints?

Never done an actual ecm until now.

Side note for future: I have another to do as well. Have some radio smack 28pin sockets. Will they work if I cut the pins and glue them into place securely, maybe even staking them in somehow?

later
Jeremy

 

The '148s came with two different types/sizes of sockets. The closed frame with .450" spacing is the most common. The other style is the open frame socket with .600" spacing.

The open frame socket has two square openings in the bottom. The PCB can be see through the socket. For this style I carefully pry the frame off leaving just the pins. Then lift each pin out individually while heating with a soldering iron.

The closed frame sockets are tough. For these I use a sharp thin knife and cut the socket pins. To so this I set the ECM up on the harness connector side and slip the knife between the socket frame and the PCB. Start in the middle. Pull the knife handle toward the PCB so the point doesn't dig into the board.

Now gently hit the handle end of the knife until it starts cutting through the pins. Rock the knife side-to-side to cut more pins. Reposition knife and continue until the socket falls free of the PCB. Then lift the pins out individually while heating with an iron.

RBob.

 

I cut, knife and cutoff wheel, melted and abused the socket to get it off :-(

Its off, problem was my ecm has gbeen remanned, think when they repaired it(fond the wire) they redunked it in the coating batch and whole bottom of socket was covered in it ..........

First try did not succeed, getting a 51 code prom error!

Retested bin and offsets and lloks not to be the issue, means I take it apart and resolder it :-)

Yeah me

later
Jeremy

 

Good thing I ordered 2 sockets for the 148.(.045 spacing)

I broke 2 of the strips :-(

But on my second try and completely succesful soldering experience I did manage to make it work.

What a terrific pia that was, thank *** I only have to do it once and now I'm 2732 free forever :-) (going to do the other as back up still)

Its working and much like my first hack I mean memcal job the second try seems to have succeeded..

I'd post pics, but I can do without getting laughed at :-)

later
Jeremy

 

Thought of another question.

Should I use hotglue or the like to basically recoat/insulate the new socket strips on the PCB?

I never fully reassembled it and was planning on glueing the adapter socket in for some more strength. Should I secure all new solder joints on the board while I am there.

Also have to strip the coating from the edgeboard and cut the case so I can use the Rbob express edge card reader. Sucks working on something only having a snapon scanner for data :-)

 

For a fair weather car I don't bother with a re-coat. Otherwise I've found that Krylon Clear paint works. As for the edge card use a dull pop-sickle stick or such (split chop-stick) and carefully scrape off the heavy portion of the coating. Then finish up with a toothbrush, paper towels and Green BrakeKleen, 'brake parts cleaner', or whatever they call it at that store. ROMLess is a better way to go. . .

RBob.