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Inj. offset vs. Batt. Voltage

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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 04:49 PM
  #1  
3.8TransAM's Avatar
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Inj. offset vs. Batt. Voltage

How and when do u know that u should make changes to it?

Are there cretain guidelines or a simple experiment to run to see if it helps?

Kind of just looking for all the clues for AE involvement on my tpi 383(SD)

later
Jeremy
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Old Jul 20, 2005 | 07:21 PM
  #2  
Grumpy's Avatar
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Re: Inj. offset vs. Batt. Voltage

Originally posted by 3.8TransAM
How and when do u know that u should make changes to it?
Are there cretain guidelines or a simple experiment to run to see if it helps?

Kind of just looking for all the clues for AE involvement on my tpi 383(SD)

Disconnect the alt, run the car, logging it, as the battery voltage drops, correct as necessary.
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Old Jul 21, 2005 | 12:03 AM
  #3  
RednGold86Z's Avatar
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From: Corona
Car: 92 Form, 91 Z28, 89 GTA, 86 Z28
Engine: BP383 vortech, BP383, 5.7 TPI, LG4
Transmission: 4L60e, 700R4, 700R4..
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 2.73
That's to get the difference at each voltage, but a way to get the offset close to correct is to have a good warm calibration, and have a good cold correction factor for high to medium loads, and then check the same cold correction at low loads and low PWs to see if it's excessively lean or rich. Too lean, subtract some VBatt offset and add to the VE at low loads. Too rich, add some VBatt offset and subtract some VE at low loads. Coolant enrichment doesn't look at VBatt offset, just VE. In order to get the same warm engine fueling, you'll have to change VE and change VBatt inversely to get the cold engine - low PW stuff working.
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