I have my old Moates G1 adapter from when I had TPI. Have a Commander in the car now so I don't need it.

I just put vortec heads on my '89 Jimmy and it needs some SERIOUS tuning! I was wonding if I could just solder the Zif socket I have, onto the 8062 Computer. I know I'd have to ditch 4 of the pins as it's a 24pin computer.

My question is, can I do this? It looks like on the forsale G2 adapter, that Craig has a resistor in there for some reason. Rbob, maybe you know?

I'd buy the adapter, but this project nickel and dimed me, and school tuition is due in 2 weeks and I REALLY need this rig running!

Help!

And does anyone know where I can find an ECU to use with tunerpro, for the 8062 computer? I can't find one! And I understand the 7747 ecu wont interchange.

Thanks!
-Paul

 

Most likely the ZIF will fit. However, before you do anything check the pin spacing on the current '8062 PROM socket. This is the spacing across the socket, side to side.

Free up the little board by taking out the two screws and carefully pull it up and over. On the bottom of the little board measure across the PROM socket pins. If the spacing is 0.6" (a little over a half-inch), the ZIF will solder into it's place.

If the pin spacing is 0.45" (a little under a half-inch) no-go, the ZIF will not fit.

As for an '8062 ECU, I don't know of any. You may be better off swapping in a '7747 or '8746.

RBob.

 

Spacing is .6" Thanks Rbob!

Swapping the 7747, would just be something like repinning a few wires right?

 

Paul,

I have my old Moates 8way adaptor. Next time your over here, bring the Jimmy's ECM, we can see if that will fit.

 

Rbob, forgot to double check.... I don't need any resistors to run a 29c256 chip in there or anything, or do I?

Thanks

edit: Guess it really doesn't matter now. I soldered the zif in, and even the stock chip wont read. So I used an ohm meter and found that 4 pins are somehow connected and getting 300 on the 2000k ohm setting.

:O(

I've got a 7747 ecm... and don't want to fubar it, guess I'll send it in, and let Craig do it.

 

Sounds like I'm too late, but maybe someone else will find this and be able to make use of it.

Here's a 1228062 ECU I was working on. Most of the important stuff is there, but some of it isn't. It was enough to get my large cammed V6 to run, though. The tables with ??? in front of them are 7747 equivilants that I never managed to locate (if they even exist). You might want to just delete them from the ECU.

Consider it my gift to the community.
http://www.philter.com/~teeleton/8062.ecu

I now have a 1227747 in the blazer, and possibly even a EBL setup on some future day, so my development on this ECU is pretty much halted. My 8062->7747 swap was a direct fit. No repinning necessary. Just unplug the 8062, and plug in the 7747.

Teeleton

 

Made an ALDL cable to work with USB for my laptop. O2 read .440 when warming up, ran real rough. BLMs turned out to be maxed at 150 (LEAN!!!)

So I adjusted the fuel pressure regulator for max pressure. BLMS are 140 at idle now in gear. So that's good.

Well all weekend I tried to make an adapter to fit my 28pin eeproms in and couldn't get it to work. Now, the stock chip doesn't even read right in the ecm. So I went to the j-yard and picked up a 7747 ecm with the ABUL bin from a 4.3L astrovan.

Smoothed things out a bit. Now, I've got the exact opposite with timing.. it wants 10deg advance. Anything less and the engine slows down alot and starts to lope. Heh

Can't even drive it, the ALDL is so slow spitting out information, but it needs a considerable amount of fuel added for acceleration enrichment.

I didn't think these heads and intake were THAT big! Or that I'd get so much more air flow, still retaining the stock manifolds!

Speaking of which, one of the manifolds leaks on the new heads. I'll need to add gaskets. When a manifold leaks, does it suck any fresh air down, or is it all just a force out? If it sucks some down, that might cause a false lean. Doesn't smell rich at all though.


Got to thinking that resistance would change and such from pin to pin when you are testing the straight through, it's a circuit board! The resistance was 0 from the zif to the solder joint. Couldn't get the stock chip to work even. So I desoldered the zif, set the stock chip back in the holes and pressed down, turned the key on, and had the text book flashing SES light as usual. ARGH. Need adapter!! heh

 

http://www.moates.net/files/3)%20Binary%20Editor%20Definitions/4E.xdf

Moates has one up there too. Not sure if it works or not, I've been having trouble getting chips to read.

 

I've got a couple stock 4.3L TBI astro van 7747 bin images I pulled from the units I salvaged from the bone yard if you just need a starting place.

Teeleton

 

The 7747 I pulled from the yard was an Astro van one. (ABUL) Bin works. Idles better than the AMRW from the 8062 stocker. Drives worse though! lol

Need to get some BURNed chips to work here!

 

I had to take a few degrees of timing out of the timing map above 70kpa MAP with my 7747 astro van cal. The computer was constantly tripping the knock sensor. You might be seeing something similar.

Teeleton

 

Havn't gotten a burned chip to work yet.

Never had this much problem with my 165ecm.