Doward

IT RUNS!!!

IT DATALOGS!!

I still have to hook up the knock sensor, though

Now, when I'm datalogging under TunerPro, I notice my O2 readings are all over the place - they jump up to 1000mV, then back down to 250mV, then back up - all while idling. BLM is 124... I'm going to start working on the tune, but was wondering if anyone knew why the O2 sensor would go up and down so far like that, while logging on the ZT-2 shows a fairly even line?

3.8TransAM

The stock o2 averages for stoich.

U will see rather large swings and many oscillations during its operation, even while your wideband registers stoich.

Stoich is only thing the stocker can actually see. It knows when its above and when its below and add or subtracts fuel accordingly.

Do enough datalogging and you will laugh at people who say shoot for .800mv at full throttle and the like. Compare the o2 mv to the wideband on a few runs and you will see it wuite well when u get to that point.

later
Jeremy

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I am guessing that you have a turbo now. Where did you put the O2 sensor? Is it heated?

Doward

I'm running the ZT-2, with the LSU4 Bosch WB O2... I'm using the 'simulated NB output', and it is approx 6-8" down the downpipe aft of the turbine.

I'm wondering if I should weld another bung, and use an actual NB02 in there....

RBob

iTrader: (1)

It may be best to just run open loop. Actually, it will be best to run open loop. The only reason for closed loop is to keep that under car furnace happy. . . Which in this case may not apply.

RBob.

Doward

How would I keep the $58 in open loop mode?

*edit* Also, little confused as to how the Base Boost Multi vs MAP works - is the BPW just multiplied by the multiplier?

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Change the min temp for closed loop to something higher than the operating temp. I think it is 21 degress C stock. I just cranked that up in my $58 bin. It was doing some weird stuff at idle in closed loop. It also cleared up the odd 2000 -2500rpm flucuation I had while cruising in CL.

J

Doward

Sweet, thanks

Doward

So far so good... I've been trying to figure out why the T61 wasn't making more than 3psi - I'll post pics later of why it wasn't making hardly any boost

Doward

Ah, the goodness

3.8TransAM

Is that plain rubber tubing?

At the minimum get yourself some of the reinforced stuff.

If you ask around u can get it at most good part shops in like 3, 3.5 and even 4 inch diameter.

Easier to find now with all the newer diesels using it it seems.

Also another good idea is welding a bead all the way around the pipe and than grinding it down so you have a slight lip to actually keep the hose in place. Wont fix the blown rubber coupling bt might help some in the future.

later
Jeremy

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I used silicone hose and T-bolt clamps. It is worth the extra $50. I also added a weld lip to all of my compressor tubing. I run low boost, but it is the sudden throttle lift off that seems to blow hose connections apart. Do you have a BOV on it?
How do you like the $58 code so far? Is that a T61 on a 2.8 V6? What is the exhaust A/R?

Thanks,
J

Doward

.84 T3 hot side... spools starting around 3200rpm... the lovely 2.8's intake is completely unsuited for anything over 5000rpm, though. So the intake is now the hold-back point in the system, as far as I can tell

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

That turbine and compressor seems like a good choice for a 2.8
J

Doward

Yeah, I'm enjoying it.

I'm still chasing this IAC problem tho!!

http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/IAC.htm

I checked out the info there, and measured the resistance in my NEW IAC MOTOR I PURCHASED - 51ohms across the top two, and 50ohms across the bottom two.

Both blue wires control coil 1
both green wires control coil 2

I've got the IAC completely out of the throttle body, sitting on the accumulator, so I can watch it.

Put the key in, put it to 'RUN' and nothing.

I've switched the wires out all morning, and I get nothing. Does the IAC not move if you just put the key in RUN? Do I need to actually try to crank the car, or what?

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Yes, putting the key on run and NOTHING will happen. Do this:
Install a jumper wire on the ALDL pins A&B (test mode), turn the key on, and look at the IAC. It should be fully extended blocking the port. If it is all the way closed (spring compressed) then it is wired incorrectly. Then pull, the jump wire out of the ALDL connector (with the key still on) and look at the IAC. It should now be 3/4 way open.

If you still can't get it to work right, then read your other $58 thread. I posted info on IAC operation with $58 code in a 730 ECM.

J