blm too low
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Engine: 3xx ci tubo
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Rain only matters if the connection is bad. You were given false information. If it did matter that much, GM would have installed rain sensors.
Something else is wrong.
Something else is wrong.
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From: Maple Ridge, B.C., Canada
Car: '89 Iroc Vert
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consider a heated O2,
headers are known for letting the O2 run cooler,
O2 has to be hot to be accurate
headers are known for letting the O2 run cooler,
O2 has to be hot to be accurate
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Originally posted by graphicideas1
do most run a heated o2 with headers where can i purchase? I had to extend the o2 wire, would that make a difference? I also changed the plenum at the same time, can a vaccume leak cause this?
do most run a heated o2 with headers where can i purchase? I had to extend the o2 wire, would that make a difference? I also changed the plenum at the same time, can a vaccume leak cause this?
If you changed the plenum, you could have a vacuum leak. Those usually (but not always) show up as a "hunting idle" symptom.
Hope this helps....
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From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
If it's a one wire sensor, you'll probably have troubles regardless of the brand with headers. Headers flow too quickly at idle to heat up a single wire sensor, plus the sensor is also usually located farther down the exhaust than with the factory manifolds, another reason the exhaust can be too cool for the sensor. The number escapes me, but the O2 sensor has to be at a minimum temp to work. The heated O2 3-wire sensor just has a built in heater to keep it warm enough. The 2 extra wires are power and ground for it's heater.
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