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mod'ed 350 almost ready for first startup

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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 01:13 PM
  #1  
thewizzard's Avatar
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From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Car: 1991 K1500
Engine: 355 Vortec
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.42
mod'ed 350 almost ready for first startup

Folks:

Ok, so I've just got my 350 back from the builder and have some questions that I'm looking for input - just to be on the safe side so I don't blow my engine. I'm new to this so please bear with me.
350 mods:
Garage Ported/polished 193 heads
compcams roller 262H-R12 (210/220 @ 0.50, 0.480/0.480 lift)
Modded 350 TBI w/ 55lb/hr injectors
Airaid TB Spacer
Flowtech shorty headers to 3" exhaust with dynomax muffler (no cat)

What I was planning on doing, I've bought the 454 injector housing w/ regulator that according to numerous articles should give me 26-32psi. Was planning on running at 30psi to give me 83lb/hr on the injectors (Until I can find the 454 injectors - none to be found at any junker where I am)

Using that flow rate I was going to set my BPW to 99. BTW, I'm installing a prominator.

From there, as suggested by the engine builder I was going to run-in the engine (even though it's a roller that's what he suggested) for 20mins, change oil/filter and go for a nice long break-in cruise for about 500kms.

So, my questions are:
- Should I be doing my first start-up and run-in with the stock chip or with the ECM modified as above and with the stock Fuel Pressure?
- Is my BPW calculation correct (Based on 0.47 brake specific... is that about right given my engine mods?)
- Should I start tuning immediately once I start the 500km portion of the break-in? Or should I run stock through the entire break in before beginning tuning?

Also, can someone tell me if my basic tuning procedure is relatively accurate?
1) Adjust Fuel Pressure
2) Set Injector Constant
3) Datalog for 1/2 hour under various conditions
4) Adjust VE using BLMs (BLM/128*VE=New VE)
5) Datalog again, verify BLMs @ 128
6) If correct, force open-loop and datalog
7) correct ve for open-loop BLMs
8) Move to PE Tuning??

Also, couple more questions:
-I'm going to be installing a 160degree thermostat. What will I need to change and using what formula to accomadate for this?
-Is there anything else that anyone might suggest as far as getting a good base tune on this thing?


I really to appreciate ANY and ALL replies!

Ben
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Old Mar 30, 2006 | 06:23 PM
  #2  
91L98Z28's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,162
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From: California
Car: Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
I can't really comment on the TBI stuff as I don't know enough about it.

20min at 2000 is primarily to ensure that flat tappet cams cam develop the proper wear pattern to spin the lifters. as you pointed out, you're running rollers. 20 at 2000 should ble entirely unnecessary for this engine. Most of your engine builders these days (well, the ones running carbs, anyways) woudln't hesitate to slap it on a dyno and start making pulls right away.

I'd personally go with a 180 stat so that everything can get up to temperature. but that's just my opinion.
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 09:46 AM
  #3  
Tibo's Avatar
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From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
I would run it open loop for a while. I prefer to do my tuning in open loop, especially on new engines. I would richen everything up so you can go driving and just go from there. Running it rich will usually ensure that it starts up faster easier and stays running untill you get a better tune. Sometimes at idle your single wire O2 can get cold and give lower readings, that is why I don't let my car sit for 1/2 hour while trying to tune idle.
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 09:57 AM
  #4  
thewizzard's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 58
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From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Car: 1991 K1500
Engine: 355 Vortec
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.42
Thanks for the replies guys.

So as far as richening it up... seeing as the prominator isn't installed just yet (Will be just as soon as it arrives), can I do this just with my FP regulator? Just use the stock one and bump it up to something like 15 psi or so?
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Old Mar 31, 2006 | 08:00 PM
  #5  
89stroker's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 60
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From: Alamosa, CO
Car: 89 K2500
Engine: 383 tbi
Transmission: built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10 14 bolt
ya, bump up your pressure at the very least. you should be able to get 15 psi out of it. i like your cam choice. same one i have. i don't think you'll need 454 injectors, i could be wrong, but that seems like a lot for a 350.

when i first started mine, i verified my timing, and started drving it. i didn't know near as much as i do now about tuning, etc, but that is what i did, and it hasn't blown up yet.

edit: i actually drove mine for almost 6 months before i learned i needed bigger injectors. i got all worried that i tore something up, so over thanksgiving break i tore it clear down in the frame to make sure nothing was wrong, and everything was still perfect. don't ask me how i didn't burn holes in all my pistons, but i didn't.
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 12:29 PM
  #6  
thewizzard's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 58
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From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Car: 1991 K1500
Engine: 355 Vortec
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.42
Well!!! I love my new engine... and it's not even tuned yet! Surges/Searches when idling, but other than that seems to be running OK.

What used to take full throttle around a corner now does at 1/4 throttle from a dead stop!!! Fun Fun FUN!! I CANT WAIT to see what it does with a proper tune on it (Found out my prominator is going to be another week or so)

Any how... this is probably getting a little off topic here, but would it be recommended to get a performance coil (48k volts) and increase the gap to 0.040 on my plugs? Would this help the idle and help with making sure that I'll burn all the fuel in the cylinders? Or is this more of a moot point??
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