Hey all,
I'm just getting into the tuning/PROM burning for my project. The victim is running a '165 MAF with $6E code and unplugged 9th injector. I started with a stock 305.bin, and have been working with that. So far, I've changed the injector constant to 22 (running 22 lb. LT1 injectors) and messed with the idle speed vs. coolant temp in an attempt to get this car to idle while in open loop.

The first time I start the car when it's cold, it fires and dies right away. The second or third time may get it to run long enough for me to step on the throttle a bit and keep it alive. After I get it out of the driveway and into 1st gear, it will generally run like crap for a minute until the temp comes up a bit; backfiring through the intake, stumbling, surging idle, etc. Once the car is warm, it does settle into a nice lopey idle and is pretty smooth. Cruise BLMs are in the 140s and WOT BLMs have been in the 120s.

The motor is basically a budget-built version of a ZZ4 (355 ci, ZZ4 cam, World Products 58cc heads, 9.8:1 compression) but from what I've read here, most guys have had hardly any trouble getting the ZZ3/4 cam to idle. Am I looking at something in the code, or something mechanical (major vacuum leak that I'm not seeing/hearing?).

Also, are there any opinions on leaving the EGR in, vs. deleting it? It's currently installed, but does it have any impact with this cam?

 

Run the 89 350 code with the VATS deleted. It has no ninth injector or conversely run the 88 350 code and redo the appropriate cold start tables and work from there (ie: use the 89 cold start to compensate for the ninth injector u no longer have)

later
Jeremy

 

I was using a 305/5-speed bin because I have a 5-speed in the car. Will using a 350/auto .bin make a difference? Will the DFCO tables and such work allright if I flag the manual trans bit in 350 code?

 

The stalling can be fixed by raising the CHOKE settings ie:
If it starts you have enough CRANK fuel then if it stalls you need more choke fuel, if it blows black smoke then you have to much CHOKE.

 

In order to pinpoint if it's a "choke" setting (i.e. afterstart setting), or just the MAF tables/injector constants that need to be fixed, reduce your injector constant to get the Idle and part load BLM to 118-128. Then let'r cool down and try another cold start.