Just to continue on a theme:

First, CARB, and the EPA can't even agree on exactly they do sense (oem switching types). So that kinda sheds a new light on things for openers.

The idea of grounding the sensor thru the exhaust is poor at best, and on the new sensors they use 4 wires, one ground for the heater, and one for the sensor, thou they apprear to be common on most sensors.

There is a reason for GM having several hundred part numbers.
They vary slightly for response time, and exact crossover voltage. While a vast majority cross at 14.7 some are at 15.2.

While you can get by with being sloppy with replacements, don't be surprised if your mileage, and emissions suffer.

Tubing headers are WONDERFUL heat exchangers, and if you move the sensor down to an area by the collector, while it might still function, it's cross counts might be really slow. My advise if you run tube headers, or relocate the sensor further downstream even with the oem headers, at least get a heated sensor.

The Bosch replacements are noted for having a poor connection on the ground side of the actual sensor internally.

If you graft an extension on to the O2's lead wire you will have problems if you solder and heat shrink it. The sensor "breathes" thru the wire to get a reference o2 reading. So crimp only, and mount it to be sure moisture can't accumulate (impossible, IMWO).

 

More good reading.

 

yes