I had my 350 rebuilt in my 90 Formula 350, and it has a 212/212 duration and a .430/.430 lift. Other than that it is stock. My engine vacuum is around 14 in, and my car idles like crap because the MAP sensor thinks theres a load on the engine when there isnt. Do u guys think i need to order a custom chip?

 

The entire point of this board is Do It Yourself. I'm not meaning to sound like a jerk or anything. But, read the article at the top of the page. It would be a waste of money to "order" a custom chip.


Brendan

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1987 IROC-Z L98,SuperRam,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 Roller, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, ADS 24#, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 3, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, KYB Shocks/Struts, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs, Polyurethan Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm,

To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here

 

No.
You need how to learn to program your own.
Have you ever heard of a distributor or carb that was perfect out of the box?.
Once you start swappin parts, you have a unique engine combination, and there aren't any one size fits all calibrations that will make it right.
Just like carbs, you have to tune it get it right

 

You should be making more than 14" with a 350 and 212 cam. Are you throwing any codes? Check for vacuum leaks, set the IAC and TPS per the tech articles. What's your base timing set at? If it's at 6 or less now,, bump it up a couple of degrees. See what that does for you. To get it perfect,, you'll need to burn one yourself,, but a "chip" can't fix other problems.