I know this isnt a thirgen, but was still wondering if anyone can help me. I have a 95 350 TBI truck. I dont program my own chips although I would like too. I have been having my chips tuned for me, as I have increased the fule pressure and im trying to get it to run right. But I have not heared from him anymore and its hard to find answers to my questions. Anyway I noticed my SA dosent seem as high as it should be. Im only getting about 21 degrees of total advance at abour 4200rpm. at about 2500rpm its only about 12 degrees. I am also getting KR all the way up to about 3000rpm. Running 93 octane running at about 190 degrees. My guess would be that im not getting enough AE its running on the lean side (Which is indicated by the lean 700mv O2 reading, although im running stock O2 not wideband). Ive always heard when you run lean you get KR. So maby this is the reason for this. But then why am I getting low SA, if this is low? I have been told that my pickup coil might have gone bad and I need a new distributor. What does a pickup coil do?
Anyway thanks as it is hard to find answers, and I guess im going to have to lean to tune my own chips.

 

I would start by looking at the knock problem. Yes, too lean will cause knock. Pull a couple plugs, get a magnifying glass and look for little specks of silver. Look real close, as if each speck is worth $5000. You may need to get a new set of plugs and run them for a few hours then inspect them. If you find little specks you definitely have way too much knock. The specks are little pieces of your pistons coming off.

Getting rid of knock usually entails working both spark (less) and fuel (more). I am leaning toward a fuel problem (pun intended). More AE might help but you should start with the other two first. The low SA is probably a result of knock which causes the ecm to reduce SA.

If someone else programmed your chip, do you know what SA and fuel values were used? Did this start right after you got your last chip?

Take a look at <u>DIY Fuel-Injection Tools:</u><br>Created by an EFI enthusiast for EFI enthusiasts like you! : Moates.Net. You can probably burn your own chips for very little investment.

 

Also, if you start with a new set of plugs you can check the color. White or yellowish is bad, too lean. They should be kind of a golden-light brown. This is tough to describe in words. The color should definitely be in the brown shade... Very light brown, more towards yellow is too lean.

Trust the plugs!! They always tell the truth!!

 

I was thinkng the same to get some new plugs and check them. As I dont have a wideband O2, so I was thinking of getting a new o2 since theres only one. Anyway im going to check the plugs. Im going to turn my fuel pressure up a little and see what that does. But my fuel pressure is already at about 14psi.
I think my problem is that ive been through so many chips becuase I turned my fuel pressure up and was trying to get Brian from tbichips to tune it for the fuel pressure. I was doing this becuase it was hard for me to adjust the pressure becuase I had to take the tb off every time. I havent really heard from him in a long time thats why im stuck. He also said something about the pickup coil going back and causing a lean conditon. Is there any way i can test this? Ive used seafoam also but ill probably try it again, and let it sit for a long time this time. I just want my full timing to match the octane im running, my lean issue solved, and I want my shift points to be stock or close too it becuase it seems so wasteful to have my motor at thoes high rpms when I no it has more power down low.
Im trying to avoid buying everything to tune it myself as im not going to have my truck for very long, but ive porbably run out of options.

Also one more question my truck was acting wierd a couple weeks agao like it would stumble at very light throttle. I got a data error code when I datalogeed but check the plug wires seemd one was loose and fixed it. It still stumbled but whent away after I pulled the egr and cleaned and ran seafoam. No more stumble but it seems like my truck dosent run smooth, with no radio or noise I can just liten to it run and it seems to skip a little, also idle jumps around a little. I wonder if this is my porblem with a new pickup coil, or distrubutor.

Thanks for your help though and im going to go through and read some more, and see what I can find out.

 

Here is some info. Im using datamaster so if anyone wants to look at my datalog I can send it to them.

 

If you're not going to get into doing your own chips, then at best all you'll have is a truck that sometimes runs. It takes a commitment of wanting the best, and the willingness to learn how to do that, to get good results. Seems like you've found out what a waste of money most *programming experts* really are. Read the stickies, and start learning, or figure on wasting a lot of time and money with just guessing on what your combo would like.

There aren't any short cuts to tuning, it takes work. If you're not willing to do what it takes, then you'll just have to be miserable. BTW, when paying someone remember, they're doing it to make a profit, not to optimise your truck to the highest level possible. They want to make you happen enough so that you don't mind paying them, and there can be a huge difference between the two.

 

Most of my dataloggs of my previous chips got deleted. But I looked at some runs I took about 2 weeks ago, and I was getting 1 to 2 degrees retart throughout the entire rpm range. That about what its doing now to, but that is with the same chip. I have another chip that ill put in and see what happends. I need to log new data as I increased my fuel pressure a little. I looked but dint log in Tuner Pro and my INT was like 117 a lot of the time. My BLM was around 128 though.
I just dont get why I would get spark retard if im running 93 octane with low SA.
How much SA is other people runnning with faritly stock motors with retunes tuned for 93?

 

I was looking at Tuner Pro and noticed how easy it really is. I opened one of the Bin files and saw that tuner pro really did all of the work for me. It shows all the values and tables and you can just change the numbers. Is it really this easy. I know it takes a lot of practice to get it right, but if I bought the reader witch is about 80 bucks that is all ill need right. I still need a WB02 though.

 

Sorry for the questions but would all I need is Burn 1 from moates, and I could it to read and program my chips. I guess I would need some EEPROMS.
How can I edit transmission data like shift points and line pressure. I dont see it in tunerpro or any tables on it or anything.

 

Not everything is in the ecm (fuel pressure, etc). I would spend a couple days reading the stickies at the top of this board. They will tell you HOW. Pretty much everything you'll need. The trick however, is to determine which values to change and by how much. For this you need to have a good understanding of what makes engines tick (like a watch).

You don't have to have a wide band to do tuning although it would help tremendously. It depends on how much coin you want to spend. Work off the ecm values and read the plugs to verify the numbers.

Good luck

 

Thanks I looked at my plugs today, but dint see any sings of detonation. The center porcalin was white and then on one side had a little black. The tip was gray and white. Im going to read some more and order my stuff later this week. Im going to go with Moates flash n burn and get the adapter as I have a memcal in my 95. Im going to go with the 27S512 chip it is flash programable. I am still unclear on how the adapter works. Does it mount permanantly to the PCM?

 

White and gray are BAD colors to have on the plugs. You definitely have a fuel problem!

The memcal adapter that lets you add your own chip without removing the old one... stays in the ecm.

 

White after extended part throttle operation on a TBI truck, really is not a problem. They all do that. TBI is setup to run pretty darn lean at cruise.

Here is the stock BJYM spark timing table that would be used in a 1995 G10 Van with a 350 TBI, a truck should be similar. This is the open throttle table. PE adder is one degree at 1,200 and two degrees for over 1,600.

The second table is the one from my EBL .BIN that runs my mildly modified TBI 350. Stock heads/Stock Cam I run 2* PE adder at 1,600 rpm 28* total advance

 

Thanks for helping me out.

 

So this means that my timing is only about 2 or 3 degrees advanced at WOT from stock. But i still need to track down my knock.

 

I was looking at my log in datamaster. Why is my injector DC only 52 at WOT at 4250rpm? Shoulndt it be close to maxing out? Or is this for one injector?