Ok here is the deal. I am almost finished with my long running project. The only problem I have is I cannot seem to get this Camaro of mine running correctly. I started out with a 1987 Camaro 305 TPI with an auto trans. I change the car from a auto to a T-56 and replaced the dash with a 90-92 dash. I rewired the current dash wiring harness to work with the 90-92 gauges and controls. I also replaced the motor and went with a 383 with a cam that should handle 2,500 to 5,500 PRM. Now I have a Accel 58MM throttle body, 30# injectors and a TPIS Mini Ram setup. I replaced the fuel pump. Put in a high flow fuel filter. Removed the old fuel pump. And extended the fuel pick up tube. I also replaced the fuel feed metal line from the fuel pump to the front of the car and I have it going to the fuel rails with braided hose. I replaced the knock sensor, water temperature sensors, IAC sensor, MAF sensor, TPS switch, oil pressure sensors, and O2 sensor. I also replaced the distributor, the coil, and I installed a MSD 6AL. Replaced the spark plugs and spark plug wires. The fuel pressure is set to 45 PSI with an adjustable regulator. I also had a custom chip made by Ed Wright.

Ok now on to my problem. When I start the car it seems fine. It will idle somewhat nicely. I still need to adjust the idle and get the chip redone to lean it out a little more at idle. It’s running to rich. Now when I try and drive the car it will rev but it really feels like it’s lacking some power. Once it revs up to 4,000 RPM it feels like it’s hitting a rev limiter. I thought that was my MSD 6AL box so I took it out of the system and it still wont rev over 4,000 RPM. At wide open throttle I get readings of about 138 cfm from the MAF. I know it is supposed to be higher. I replaced it four times and every time I get about 138 cfm. Since I figured it might be another problem I replaced all the other sensors 2 more times and still I get about 138 cfm at wide open throttle. Last run on my Auto X-Ray I got 79 MVolts on the O2 sensor. If anyone has the PC link software I can send the files. I am not sure about what to do next. I am at a total lose and getting really annoyed with my car. I do not know how to program my own chip and I really don’t have the time to learn that’s why I had Ed Wright do the custom chip. Please help I really want my toy back. Thanks.


------------------
JJ IROC
1987 Camaro IROC Z-28 383ci. TPI 6 Speed T-56 black
My Car
jjiroc@alijas.com

[This message has been edited by JJ IROC (edited November 16, 2001).]

 

I don't mean this as a flame and don't want this to turn into a flame war but what you are saying is that your time is more valuable than everybody that has taken the time to learn how to do their own prom. This is the DIY PROM board and that's what we do here, help people burn their own. Why don't you send Ed Wright the readings from your scanner and see if he can't figure it out. After all, you did pay him for a custom prom so he might as well attempt to get it right.

 

I never said anything about anyone else’s time. Between running my own business and kids it took me a little over 3 years to get the car this far. I'm just personal very busy and have been pulling my hair out over this. I really do wish I had the time to program my own chip. Ed Wright doesn't have the auto X-Ray software. I was just wondering if someone here could help me out with this. I'm sorry you took offence to this but when you need help don't you ask?


------------------
JJ IROC
1987 Camaro IROC Z-28 383ci. TPI 6 Speed T-56 black
My Car
jjiroc@alijas.com

 

The only thing that you can really do is get a "scanner" that Ed Wright supports that way you can get him some data for him to tune your chip. Or, you'll need to find time somewhere so you can burn your own.. Driving it the way it is, your going to end up ruining your engine. I'm just saying this from personal experience.


Brendan

 

Guys, I believe this post was transferred to us from DFI (I recall seeing it on another board). So, I will let this post "slide", even though it really has nothing to do with eprom burning.

JJ, your problem seems VERY similar to problem 89Vette was originally experiencing back a few months ago when he got into eprom burning. Turned out he had a combination of a bad pickup coil (in the dist.) and a bad coil.

I also had a buddy that had a "flakey" MSD unit that experienced a similar problem. Replaced the MSD unit and it worked fine. Try disabling your MSD to see if that is a source of your problems.

Just some hints of what to look at. Your problem seems more "electrical" than eprom related. The only things I can think of in the eprom that may affect this would be an OVERLY rich situation (basically flooding the motor) or massive retard.

Lastly, the incorrect lash (overly tightened rockers) can cause you to not rev. With your motor, you should be reading around 200 gms/sec flow at the MAF @ 4,000 rpm and max the MAF @ around 5,000-5,200 rpm. Adding more fuel with the "WOT %Chg to Air/Fuel vs RPM (while in PE)" starting at the point where the MAF maxes out will help compensate for the loss of meaningful data once the MAF maxes will help there. But, that is once you get your initial problem fixed.

 

Glenn91L98GTA If you think this is in the wrong forum by all means please move it. This way no more flames.

I have the MSD box diconnected right now. I also tried 3 differennt coils and 2 different distributors with it. All the same result. I don't know if it's in the chip it's but there is something with this thing I can't figure out. See I'm at a loss because this is my first heavily modded car with fuel injection. See this is why I'm posting this here. Thanks for the help.

------------------
JJ IROC
1987 Camaro IROC Z-28 383ci. TPI 6 Speed T-56 black
My Car
jjiroc@alijas.com

 

Did you do all 3 at once (MSD, coil and pickup coil?) with known good parts?

Also, double check your valve lash. If someone tightened them too much that can kill your ability to rev.

As I said, I will let the post slide. But I recommend making another post on the Tech/General Board to get any "mechanical/electrical" advice...which I still feel is the root of your problem.

Pity you don't have Diacom, I would take a quick look to see if anything stands out. Can your scan tool create a "comma delimited" or a file that can be imported into Excel?

 

Yeah I tried a coil and distributor from a friends 88 GTA and I tried the MSD box on his car. He went out and bought one after that because it made his car run a lot better. I will try to adjust the rockers again this weekend sometime but I really don't think there is anything wrong with the valve lash or adjustment. No go on the PC link software. I called Auto Xray and they don't have any why to import it into anything else. If you think it's more due to electrical can you move it to the other forum so that they might be able to help without me retyping this? Thanks again.

------------------
JJ IROC
1987 Camaro IROC Z-28 383ci. TPI 6 Speed T-56 black
My Car
jjiroc@alijas.com

[This message has been edited by JJ IROC (edited November 16, 2001).]

 

Pity you don't have the eprom burning equipment. If you did, you could do a simple test where you take a "standard bin" and compensate for the larger Injectors to eliminate the BIN as a problem. If the engine ran differently (not optimally), eg. you can now pull revs, then you would know for sure that there is something wrong with the calibration.

Conversely, if you swapped in a "standard bin" with the correction for the larger injectors and it did the SAME THING, that would point to a mechanical/electrical issue.

BTW, have you pulled the spark plugs? You may find that only one cylinder is different than the rest, or conversely they may show an "overall rich or lean" condition.

One thought I am having is a vacuum leak somewhere, as your MAF readings are just too low. The leak may even be between the TB and the MAF, so your idle is not affeted.

What are your BLM/INT values when you are cruising in on the highway in part throttle? Really high BLM/INT values would also point to a vacuum leak. How's the idle too?

 

Yeah I did replace the plugs. Had bosch platnims in there and heard that they lose the tips so I put in a fresh set of AC Delco’s. They were also kind of black. It is a little rich at idle. It's not witching btween rich and lean. I forgot about this but I tried a set of 24# and still got the same results with the 4000 RPM hit but it was lean at idle. I have been trying to read and understand Traxion's article. Maybe one day I will be able to redo or burn my own chip for my car. II found out today that my Dad has an older eprom reader/burner. He says it should work for burning and reading the stock chip. Which BLM/INT should I look at? Your personal opinion do you think that it either could be a ground problem. I have AFR aluminum heads on it and the ground on the back drivers side head shows ground but what if it's not a good ground.

I'm going to try and pull the valve covers some time this weekend and check the valve adjustment. I'm also going to run a ground strap to both body and the I guess it would be a computer ground on the other side.
Thank I really do appreciate this.



------------------
JJ IROC
1987 Camaro IROC Z-28 383ci. TPI 6 Speed T-56 black
My Car
jjiroc@alijas.com

 

Also don't you think with a vacuum leak it would show up with a rough idle or high idle. I did check for vacuum leaks with a little carb cleaner on as many vacuum ports and manifold. I also did spary the boot between the MAF and TB.