I'm planning to use Ostrich for my 90 Vette. Is there someone that use it with the '727 underhood ECM?
Problems with the ribbon cable?
I'd like to put the Ostrich in the car and not in the engine compartment....

-Beppe-

 

The 4kb nvsram module with my modded AUJP bin works in an underhood 727 ECM. I did this to my wife's 83 T/A (TPI conversion). I reprogram it through the ALDL port... (sort of like how a LT1/LS1 is reflashed)

 

Monte Carlo,

I'd like to know how this works. I've got a ZR-1 with a 3993 ECM in the engine bay. I currently have an Ostrich. How or where do you get the 4kb nvsram module? Does it work with a 32kb bin?

 

Hmm that would be a nice thing to have.. more details please

 

I asked this question a while back and didnt get any good answers. I basically only did idle tuning with the hood open, and then drove the car around normally without the Ostrich, while watching the Datamaster output. The Corvette was mostly stock so it wasnt too difficult.

 

For the most part its fine underhood. It might be a good idea to put it in a bag and tape it up to keep it from getting wet, if you live in areas where it might get splashed up under there.

 

Mangus, so you are suggesting to hook up the Ostrich to the ECM, then LET the Ostrich in the Engine compartment, but with someting to protect it from water and hot temp in the engine bay..?...then using a USB cable from Ostrich to the interior of the car via firewall?
The ECM in a Vette ('90 later) are sealed. How to manage the connection to the G1 Craig Moates adapter without loosing the watherproof carachteristic?
Thanks.

 

...another question..
With the Ostrich "you can change one parameter at a time...."
Yes. I understand ....but what about the checksum?
If I change a single parameter/constant/table, the checksum will be different...
(i searched in the archive without results..)

 

I rewrote the $8D code so that the ECM reads all the engine calibration parameters from the 4kb nvsram module instead of the eprom (as originally designed.) Then I hacked the ALDL mode 4 command so that I could write to this nvsram module through the ALDL port. What you end up with is the ability to make real-time adjustments to the engine calibration (you cannot alter the code). As of right now, you cannot use TunerPro R/T to make real time adjustments because Mangus hasn't added the functionality. I have a little app that I use to upload (or reflash if you will) the calibration section of the ECM by simply importing a BIN that has been edited by TunerPro or TunerCat.

I think some folks have this trick working with code $59, but I'm not 100% certain.

The nvsram has a built in 10year lithium battery, and to make it last longer, I've tapped into the ECM's battery backup 5V supply as well.

 

The checksum is only tested at key-on. So you can sit there and make all kinds of changes and the checksum value won't matter. However, once you key-off, wait 10 seconds or more, and key-on, then the checksum becomes an issue.

Most folks just place the hex value $AA in place of the maskID. That bypasses the checksum test. A better solution would be to upload the latest checksum value as calculated & saved by TunerPro before doing another key-on.

RBob.

 

727, with 1990 corvettes with CCM are an explosive mix.
I prefer to stay with the Craig stuffs that are tested (by me also) and good to use (for me).

 

Ok I understand, So if emulating, I change only a temp of a fan, the important thing is to do it with the key ON.

Thanks, this is referred when you change AND SAVE a new modified bin.. right?
Tunerpro always is asking me IF I WANT to calulate the new checksum.

 

The "Ostrich in a bag" solution may work. I've got a Moates G1 adapter for my ECM with a ZIF socket. So I'll plug the Ostrich into that. Not going to be driving around in monsoon anyway. It won't be as convenient as it was with the Xfire but for just playing around, it should be fine.

 

You can disable the confirmation dialog for checksum recalc. That is off by default, so either you have a really old build, or you enabled the confirmation.

My recommendation is to do what RBob suggests - simply disable the checksum by changing the mask ID byte to 0xAA.

With emulation you can make changes with key on (engine running or not) or key off. The net result is the same - the next time the value is pulled up by the ECM it will reflect the new value that you entered.

As you've discovered, in order to use an external emulator, you'll have to break the seal on the ECM. This means you'll need to take care to protect both the emulator and the ECM. It's not a particularly daunting task, but it is more work.

 

Dominic,
I often used the Ostrich underhood, on my ZR-1. Never drove in the rain, so water wasn't an issue. I tucked the O down beside the battery, and it stayed secure. The ribbon cable I tucked neatly under the ECM, as I was putting it back in place.

todd

 

Todd,

Good to know. I'm sure I'll be trying that out in the near future. Did you feed any WB O2 signal through the ECM? And if you did, which pin did you use and what did you change in the ALDL stream?

 

Yes, probably ought start a new thread or email me. todd

 

Todd,

Emailed you and I'm starting a new thread for the benefit of others. Look forward to your response.

 

Thank you !
I use a Tunerpro Version 3.09 and I don' remember if the check sum was enabled or I enabled it.
All the time I do some mods to a bin, I like to exit from Tunerpro. It ask to save and ask if I want to update the check sum . I say YES. I always made like this.
-Beppe-
----------
.. Ostrich in BackOrder..
-Beppe-

 

Beppe,

I used the Ostrich with TPRT4.0 for well over a year. Never turned checksum off. Motor was running, make a change in a parking lot, save the bin and download it. Done. Never had a problem.