Will the AUJP bin work on the HRS? I have tried to sort through the prom but I am not getting anywhere. Now It is backfiring through the exhaust. I thought I could just copy the AUJP bin and it would at least run. I even changed the intake gaskets once more. Any suggestions???????????????????????????????????????????

 

I am have idle issues. What can I change in the bin to help smooth out the idle and get the blm closer to 128. My last data log showed the afr slowly go to 14.7 then never moved from there. The blm did go to 132 then stuck at 128. I think they should adjust as you are driving but they stay the same the whole time I drive it. strange?

 

do you have a wideband? I have never tuned for a hsr intake so other guys would be much better than me but have you read the ton of tuning stuff up in the stickies? I would say go the normal tuning route. get a wideband o2, disable close loop and tune your ve table to 14.7 and there's an idle table too. its like 0 to 1600rpms. don't forget that one. once it runs good in open loop, then go back to closed loop.

 

I have read ALOT, STILL reading! Open loop, can you just disconnect the 02? The wide band is pricy, I got a heated nb and that was 200. Where does the wb 02 connect at? Should be able to use it with tuerpro, or does it connect to the 730 ecm? I seen the info but can't find it now. What wb sensor do I need and what does it cost, can I get a used one? I just want to get this thing running, now my starter took a crap! I adjusted the tune and now I have BAD surging, wants to stall then goes to 1000 rpm! I am tired of fighting with this, I would like to drive it!!!

 

I found a Bosh LSU4.2 WB on ebay for 60 bucks, is that good for what I need and where do I go from here????

 

you have to have a controller for a wideband, thats just a sensor. the controller would them output the air/fuel ratio to something you can watch. i believe more guys are buying one made by plx these days, its around 200$ for everything.



but from your above post man, i'm not going to be much help. i hope some other guys can post up and help you out more. just be patient with it. most people buy all the software and use it on a stockish running car first to get a handle on whats going on. your pretty much jumping in the deep end. this will take time to make work right.

at this point i'm not even sure a wideband would do much for you till you get a handle on the other stuff going on. all i can say is read and re read. try not to get pissed off at it. it will come to you.

 

I found more stickies on bad idle, possible to use a DVM to see read the NB to get it back on track. Also adjust the o2 minimum? Says it's on the 165 ecm but not sure on the 730. I could not find it on tunerproRT! Does anyone know about setting open/closed loop 02 intunerprort, mvolts???

 

If your backfiring out the exhaust that could indicate you are too rich.
Adjust the injector constant if that is not calculated correctly.
If the BLM is locked at 128 you may not be in closed loop.
Are you running too cold of a T-stat? Might not be reaching the threshold to go into CL.
There is some good information on this in the tuning guide sticky.
Look at O2 Costants under $8D.
There's a couple good threads around with O2 adjustments to get idle better.

 

Is the ijector constant the injector flow rate?? The thermostat is 180 and I have a heated o2, datalog says closed loop. I have been studying the stickies, I have had problems for a looooong time, getting impatiant, wife says SELL, I say I can do this but I NEED ALOT OF HELP!!! I am trying! I am going over ALL the stickies. It just sucks having problems not knowing what to do. NO shops have exerience on programming, mabe I will school then after I get over this MOUNTAIN! Thanks JP86SS for the answer I was afraid I would not get answered because of a dumb question!

 

I need to know where the injector constant is? PLEASE direct me.
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Its the same as the injector flow rate you had previously mentioned. Make sure it is set to whatever size injector you are running.

 

Location is 041C & 041D (16 bit entry)
Use the "Item Summary List" (F7) in TP to see the address if the description is not correct.
Make sure you know what the fuel pressure is at so you can enter the correct "calculated" value.
Using rough values to get running is ok but eventually it will come back to bite you on other settings. Starting with the correct value is always best.
If it runs like poo, try using Datamaster to log (for the free trial) and then run logs of a few long drives through "VE Master" to rough in the VE tables.
Sould get it at least drivable without too many problems.
If that doesn't seem to work then you'll need to look at a physical problem or sensor out of whack. The setup is not radical so the above should work barring any device not functioning correctly.
HTH

 

I have the bosh disign III and the 22lb, the constant was set at 19? I set it to 22.04. the hex went to 01CD. My fuel pressure is 40, tried to go more but the holly adjustable fpr is junky, I have to turn it back and forth to get more out of it, will 3 lbs affect it that much? Where do you enter the correct calculated value at, would it have to be 22.40? My starter went south so I will get after it when the starter comes. Thought it was the battery, now I will have both new. Thanks JP86SS. Also I had a problem using AUJP, no start, I willl check the injector flow on that to mach. On a stock 350 what is the cylinder cc, it is 713.00 now.

 

I am no expert and probably I would just research anything I post. But what worked for me was to find a VE value that would allow me to idle at 126-128 blm. I then flattened out the VE table where I idle. Next I removed almost all spark correction at idle (advance and retard). Then in my spark table I flattened out the spark value around where I idled. The last thing I had to do becuase of my engine modifications was to change the O2 constants at idle (had to mess with VE table a little). All this allowed my HSR equipped 10:1 408 with AFR heads and a Voodoo cam to idle at about 35 kpa @775 (+/- 25 rpm). Actually the 775rpm idle feels too fast and I probably will adjust down 50 or so rpm. My idle spark is 23 total. I tried anywhere from 12*-30* to see what felt the best and gave the lowest KPA. I started with SAUJP V3 which is based off of AUJP. The extended VE table in V4 has too much resolution when you are just starting out. You just have to keep rereading the stickies until it makes sense and you will have a much better idea of what to look at when issues pop up.

P.S. At idle my IAC steps are 5 or less read how to adjust if you haven't limited IAC steps.
P.S.S. I am using a heated NB from a '93 Mustang and it was <$40.

 

I am waiting on my starter, also ordered the nvsram from moates, real time tuning would help. I have read alot, but still have to learn what my set up likes. From what you are saying soulds like the stickie "how to fix some of those common idle issues." I copyed a ve table that had 0 timing at the idle areas, made it surge and stall.

 

I have a GOOD question. If the o2 sensor is at the end of long tube headers, then the air and fuel will be burnt by the time the o2 reads the mixture, this will lower the oxygen content of the exhaust and will read as a very RICH exhaust, BUT the cylinder COULD be lean. Part is burnt in the cylinder and the rest is burnt in the exhaust. How do I remedy this???