Just a quick question.
I'm setting this up for permanent install. I really don't feel like running another wire to the starter solenoid. Can anyone think of any reason why I just can't hook up to 12 volts that turns on when the key switch is in the run position?
Maybe the wire that feeds voltage to the ecm?

 

I ran mine to key-on power

 

Innovate recommends for a permanent install to do as follows.

ign on, sensor is on and heating and fuel pump is on. when up to pressure FP is off and sensor is now off.

starter on sensor is off. voltage spikes not desired.

engine starts, sensor is on.

worse scenario is with ign on and sensor is heating, maybe over heating, the cold cold start shock will damage hot sensor.

 

Thanks Ron,
I really didn't have the desire to run another wire through the firewall....so what I ended up doing is running it off the A/C power (since I don't use it). And powers the LM-1 when in Run. Hopefully this will work out ok. Next step is to hook it up to ebl which should be done before this weekend.
thanks

 

off topic, but do you have any pix of that X ram? I like unique intake setups...

 

I have a couple of pics but its tough to actually get a good picture since it sets under the tb's


All it is, is one of these shaved with a 1/4 in or so plenom on the top to allow the mounting of the tb's


Here you go

 

From LM-1 manual

"It is NOT a good idea to connect the LM-1 permanently to 12V and switch it on before the vehicle is started. Condensation water can form in the exhaust pipes.
This condensation water could then be blown by the exhaust stream against the hot sensor when the car is started. The resulting heat shock can permanently damage the sensor."

 

You should see the heck I give our sensors. -33C, run the wideband off of a spare battery to preheat it before starting (and to not loose voltage during cranking), crank and go. Can't remember having one fail directly that way (but could have been weakened). The meters themselves seem more prone to failure than the sensors - the voltage spikes of cranking really mess them up sometimes (go really goofy), and the cold kills the display. I have seen the sensors fail after long hot drives, though. I think we have >6 LM-1's here - I like the sliding bar display much better than the LM-2 if I'm not watching logworks. The LM-2 display is updated so slowly. LM-1's are not rugged though - the power connector always always gets loose or breaks the solder inside.

 

As a side note I had two sensors fail from what I would consider placement issue. I had the Bosch WB sensor that Innovate uses in my ext pipe(dual ext) right behind collector(long tubes) at 3 o'clock position. Innovate suggested I move it back some and add a extention bung. Only good spot I had do to clearances was back about 20 inches. That turned out well as no failure since. I dont quite understand how an engine running closed loop can create an environment that is going to hurt a WB02 sensor? It was not a hot sensor seeing shock from moisture on cold start. I used to manually start LM1 after engine first is running. Now it is properly wired.

 

Just for information in case anyone comes across this thread in a search looking for detailed information on wiring one of these up on an early C4.

Took me an hour to find the Starter Interupt Relay.
Location- Just behind the command center. It has 4 larger sizes wires on it (3 Green/1 Purple) Relay and bracket are off white color

The relay I used for the LM-1 was picked up at advance auto
BWD-R310741-5132 cost is $11.29
You'll also need red colored insulated spade lugs and a means of connecting into the purple wire on the starter interupt relay.

 

question for Ronny above:

when you say "move it back 20 inches", do you mean 20" towards the tailpipe, or rather closer to the engine?

I thought closer to the exhaust port was always desirable for O2 sensors (they prefer hot?), so moving it further downstream (cooler exhaust) has me confused.
thanks.

 

I had no explnation as to why sensors were failing. I turned on the controller after engine started religiously. So I never allowed condensation to impact a fully heated sensor. Innovate suggested adding the extendo bung and/or move it BACK further. I chose to do both. That being said not certain if just adding the bung would have done it? I only had two locations as my tunnel is very narrow and it has the driveshaft and 2 pipes within. So I had to move back from collector back where it opened up for room. That was 20 inches (about) back. No problems since.

 

I believe I was told by Innovate the Bosch WB sensor they use needs to live in an environment that is not excessive in heat. I forget what they told me was max temp but I recall my 2 cycle EGT gauges under load ran around 1300 deg F. Maybe sensor fails over 1500 deg? Innovate further explained OEM spends considerable time and experimentation locating a sweet spot that provides results and longevity of sensor. It was almost like they were admitting a permanent install may not be the best idea.