this thing is worse than a carbed setup with start up cold is might start in 10 to 15 sec of cranking then hot I have to hold it on the floor and pray the battery wont go dead before it starts. I have played with the cold start files but not seeing a change. I dont really know what I am doing with them so if someone can explain the way the tables work as far as if it is adding fuel or taking when I go up and down and which tables do what. I have posted at code 59 and looking for help there too. Other than that I will say that code 59 is way better than the 8d and if I was n/a still with a large cam set up this is the way to go to get it all dead on for wot and driveability. both of those are perfect on my car.

 

There are a bunch of items that play with for crank to start. With the cam I would set the distributor base timing to 10 - 12* BTDC. Change cal to match.

While holding the pedal to the floor during cranking the ECM goes into a clear flood mode. Which adds little to no fuel. It is also adding a lot more air, which brings up some other items.

Additional IAC steps during cranking can help. That cam won't create much vacuum during cranking to pull air into the engine. Opening the IAC helps in this regard.

The lower corner of the VE table affects crank fuel (low RPM & high MAP corner). Along with the cranking AFR table.

The injector vs battery voltage compensation will also affect the PW. During cranking with the battery voltage dipping down this table will be in the 9 to 10 volt range.

RBob.

 

the one thing that hits me most is the lower corner of the table. I had though that when cranking that might affect it. It is pig rich when trying to start and with the 42lbs injectors I had not touched the spots in the ve that were not in the driving area. I will first try to lean it out there and see what happens. I got a known bin from a friend that his starts perfect and copied his start up stuff to see how it did and still not good but I didnt mess with the ve. His is at a 7 and mine is at 35 in the lower corner so will play with those numbers and see what I get. Just curious why does adding timing change anything when you change the value to correct it? Is is seeing only that on crank? One thing it will do when up to temp is crank hard like too much timing on a high compression engine. slow and slugish thinking too much timing already. I had to have a 20 degree pull on on my 13 to 1 lt1 engine for start up and this will crank like that when hot with normal timing. I do use a really good battery a napa gelcell like a red top optima. 1000cca so low voltage shouldnt be a factor making it crank slow. My down pipe is near the starter though maybe heating it up too much. I will heat wrap it in that area and see if it changes. let you know if ve change helps. thanks

 

The engine cranks at what the distributor base is set to. Changing the cal to match it leaves the engine-running timing the same.

To see if the slow hot-crank is from the starter unplug the power connector to the coil. Then crank it and see how it is. With no power to the coil, no DRP to the ECM, so no spark and no injector activity.

RBob.

 

adjusting the lower ve (00) table going way lean with it fixed it. It now pops off like stock maybe quicker. thanks for the help.