New Best at the track on my tune with your help!
New Best at the track on my tune with your help!
Thanks all for helping me with tuning. Orr89rocz helped me a ton and got me up and running. All of you have helped me on here. Just wanted to pay a little thanks. Here are my results:
Rolling into the throttle because this is in a 'vette with independent aluminum rear. I now could easily kill the rear if I stabbed the throttle to the floor on launch. I can't wait to get the funding up and install a solid rear in this thing, then launch on the spray. I currently don't spray till after 1/2 way through 1st gear.
Major components of setup:
'89 Corvette with 6E ARAP based tune running full time open loop but still using PE mode, an all forged 383 with Eagle rotating assembly, 6" I-beam rods, billet splayed caps, AFR 195 eliminators, 230/236 flat tappet cam, HSR intake with custom plenum, LT headers and dual exhaust, Crane ignition box with timing retard control, beefed up 700R4 with 2800 stall lock-up converter, 3.07 gears, Nitto drag radials, Zex 200 shot, LC-1 wideband with gauge, 3520 lb raceweight with me in car.
RT .068
60' 1.585
330' 4.442
1/8th 6.858
1/8 mph 101.8
1/4 mi 10.662
1/4 mph 131.08
I am so stoked that I put this thing together and tuned it myself. Again, thanks all for the tuning help!
Rolling into the throttle because this is in a 'vette with independent aluminum rear. I now could easily kill the rear if I stabbed the throttle to the floor on launch. I can't wait to get the funding up and install a solid rear in this thing, then launch on the spray. I currently don't spray till after 1/2 way through 1st gear.
Major components of setup:
'89 Corvette with 6E ARAP based tune running full time open loop but still using PE mode, an all forged 383 with Eagle rotating assembly, 6" I-beam rods, billet splayed caps, AFR 195 eliminators, 230/236 flat tappet cam, HSR intake with custom plenum, LT headers and dual exhaust, Crane ignition box with timing retard control, beefed up 700R4 with 2800 stall lock-up converter, 3.07 gears, Nitto drag radials, Zex 200 shot, LC-1 wideband with gauge, 3520 lb raceweight with me in car.
RT .068
60' 1.585
330' 4.442
1/8th 6.858
1/8 mph 101.8
1/4 mi 10.662
1/4 mph 131.08
I am so stoked that I put this thing together and tuned it myself. Again, thanks all for the tuning help!
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 26
From: Wesley Chapel, Florida
Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: Dart SHP 406ci T88 turbo
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: QP 35 spline Ford 9" 3.50 gears
Re: New Best at the track on my tune with your help!
Thanks all for helping me with tuning. Orr89rocz helped me a ton and got me up and running. All of you have helped me on here. Just wanted to pay a little thanks. Here are my results:
Rolling into the throttle because this is in a 'vette with independent aluminum rear. I now could easily kill the rear if I stabbed the throttle to the floor on launch. I can't wait to get the funding up and install a solid rear in this thing, then launch on the spray. I currently don't spray till after 1/2 way through 1st gear.
Major components of setup:
'89 Corvette with 6E ARAP based tune running full time open loop but still using PE mode, an all forged 383 with Eagle rotating assembly, 6" I-beam rods, billet splayed caps, AFR 195 eliminators, 230/236 flat tappet cam, HSR intake with custom plenum, LT headers and dual exhaust, Crane ignition box with timing retard control, beefed up 700R4 with 2800 stall lock-up converter, 3.07 gears, Nitto drag radials, Zex 200 shot, LC-1 wideband with gauge, 3520 lb raceweight with me in car.
RT .068
60' 1.585
330' 4.442
1/8th 6.858
1/8 mph 101.8
1/4 mi 10.662
1/4 mph 131.08
I am so stoked that I put this thing together and tuned it myself. Again, thanks all for the tuning help!
Rolling into the throttle because this is in a 'vette with independent aluminum rear. I now could easily kill the rear if I stabbed the throttle to the floor on launch. I can't wait to get the funding up and install a solid rear in this thing, then launch on the spray. I currently don't spray till after 1/2 way through 1st gear.
Major components of setup:
'89 Corvette with 6E ARAP based tune running full time open loop but still using PE mode, an all forged 383 with Eagle rotating assembly, 6" I-beam rods, billet splayed caps, AFR 195 eliminators, 230/236 flat tappet cam, HSR intake with custom plenum, LT headers and dual exhaust, Crane ignition box with timing retard control, beefed up 700R4 with 2800 stall lock-up converter, 3.07 gears, Nitto drag radials, Zex 200 shot, LC-1 wideband with gauge, 3520 lb raceweight with me in car.
RT .068
60' 1.585
330' 4.442
1/8th 6.858
1/8 mph 101.8
1/4 mi 10.662
1/4 mph 131.08
I am so stoked that I put this thing together and tuned it myself. Again, thanks all for the tuning help!
Re: New Best at the track on my tune with your help!
I haven't launched hard on a n/a pass yet (I just make 1 n/a pass first pass at the track each day and launch fairly easily to test out the traction). But on an easy launch I ran a 12.22 @ 111. I know I could put in a looser converter, keep the converter unlocked for the whole run (have to lock it at 95 mph or it blows through it in 3rd gear when spraying), and raise the shift points some (I have the governor set up to shift automatically still) and be in the 11.8 range, but I have it set up more for the spray.
I am spraying a full 200 shot on a zex kit. I had to drill out the nitrous side of the nozzle because it was only the size of the 175 jet on the inside. Also had to install a -4an line from the NMU to the nozzle and drill out all the -3 to -4 fittings because the inside of the -3an line that came with the kit was also the same size as the 175 jet. By calculating the jet size it really should be about a 210 shot.
I'm a believer in the 2 degrees of retard per 50 shot. I am retarding 11 degrees, and will likely try 10 next time out. With my setup, I'm only getting away with 28 degrees overall timing (when not spraying), and step down 1.5 degrees per every 400 rpm below 4800. If I run more I get audible detonation with the KR system disabled. So I know on motor I'm close to the edge, and the 11 degrees retard on the 200 shot worked perfectly with no sign of detonation. Part of that is the air fuel ratio, which I shoot for mid 11's when spraying a 200 shot, 12.0 when spraying a 100 shot, and low to mid 12's n/a. If I do go up to a 225 shot (not sure if the solenoid in the Zex nmu can flow any more but I likely won't stop till I find it's limit) I will likely run 12 degrees retard and a fuel jet that will give me low 11's on the afr. The bigger the shot, the richer it needs to be. If you were to run all nitrous and no air, your afr would need to be like 9.0. Also, my numbers are about .5 less than what most shoot for because in my area all gasolines are blended with 10% ethanol.
Make sure that you run a step colder on the spark plugs if your motor is high compression, then for every 75 to 100 shot go another step colder. If you are borderline on your plugs now then even a 100 shot will turn them into glow plugs and will melt your exhaust valve and seat. Ask my new AFR eliminator heads how I know that! Copper plugs are great, but I've found that iridium plugs allow you to run really cold plugs and not build up carbon like cold copper plugs do. The iridiums are working great with the 200 shot. DO NOT USE PLATINUM PLUGS FOR NITROUS!
My suggestion to you is to put in a 100 nitrous jet, put in a fuel jet that should be a little rich to be safe, retard the timing 4 degrees, take my advice on spark plug heat range, and don't spray it till well up in 2nd or bottom of 3rd gear. Keep a close eye on the air fuel ratio. If it is rich, go down 1 step on the fuel jet and run it again. IF all is well, step up to the 150, retard 6 degrees, keep the plug heat range in mind, then make another pass, again not spraying till well up in 2nd or in the bottom of 3rd gear. Any hint of lean on the afr gauge, lift out of it and abort the run, then come back and put in a bigger fuel jet and do it again. After all is worked out, try spraying 1/2 way through 2nd gear, then try it right after the 1-2 shift. I don't think I'd try spraying in 1st.
I am spraying a full 200 shot on a zex kit. I had to drill out the nitrous side of the nozzle because it was only the size of the 175 jet on the inside. Also had to install a -4an line from the NMU to the nozzle and drill out all the -3 to -4 fittings because the inside of the -3an line that came with the kit was also the same size as the 175 jet. By calculating the jet size it really should be about a 210 shot.
I'm a believer in the 2 degrees of retard per 50 shot. I am retarding 11 degrees, and will likely try 10 next time out. With my setup, I'm only getting away with 28 degrees overall timing (when not spraying), and step down 1.5 degrees per every 400 rpm below 4800. If I run more I get audible detonation with the KR system disabled. So I know on motor I'm close to the edge, and the 11 degrees retard on the 200 shot worked perfectly with no sign of detonation. Part of that is the air fuel ratio, which I shoot for mid 11's when spraying a 200 shot, 12.0 when spraying a 100 shot, and low to mid 12's n/a. If I do go up to a 225 shot (not sure if the solenoid in the Zex nmu can flow any more but I likely won't stop till I find it's limit) I will likely run 12 degrees retard and a fuel jet that will give me low 11's on the afr. The bigger the shot, the richer it needs to be. If you were to run all nitrous and no air, your afr would need to be like 9.0. Also, my numbers are about .5 less than what most shoot for because in my area all gasolines are blended with 10% ethanol.
Make sure that you run a step colder on the spark plugs if your motor is high compression, then for every 75 to 100 shot go another step colder. If you are borderline on your plugs now then even a 100 shot will turn them into glow plugs and will melt your exhaust valve and seat. Ask my new AFR eliminator heads how I know that! Copper plugs are great, but I've found that iridium plugs allow you to run really cold plugs and not build up carbon like cold copper plugs do. The iridiums are working great with the 200 shot. DO NOT USE PLATINUM PLUGS FOR NITROUS!
My suggestion to you is to put in a 100 nitrous jet, put in a fuel jet that should be a little rich to be safe, retard the timing 4 degrees, take my advice on spark plug heat range, and don't spray it till well up in 2nd or bottom of 3rd gear. Keep a close eye on the air fuel ratio. If it is rich, go down 1 step on the fuel jet and run it again. IF all is well, step up to the 150, retard 6 degrees, keep the plug heat range in mind, then make another pass, again not spraying till well up in 2nd or in the bottom of 3rd gear. Any hint of lean on the afr gauge, lift out of it and abort the run, then come back and put in a bigger fuel jet and do it again. After all is worked out, try spraying 1/2 way through 2nd gear, then try it right after the 1-2 shift. I don't think I'd try spraying in 1st.
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