I copied my post from the Code59 forums, to see if I catch any good advice on here...

I recently built a twin turbo 355 SBC that will run on Code59. I have some questions concerning the break-in procedure.

Some specs:
355
9.0:1
Twin T61's
55# Holley injectors
224/224 .465" 114LSA
World Sportsman II heads

At the first fire, to break in the cam, the motor will have to be ran at 2000+rpms for an extended period of time. Seeing as how I have no tune for this setup, what would be the best way to successfully run it initially.

I found a 60# bin for a small-block in the Download section, but I will be running 55# injectors. My thoughts are to raise the values in F28 (how much??) so that the motor will not run lean on initial startup/break-in with my smaller injectors.

I have an Innovate WB02, and will be running Ostrich 2.0...So, if the AFR is wacky I can fine tune it in real time.

The bigger question is about timing...

Could I just adjust the distributor to the factory 6*, and leave it unplugged, so that the ECM will not interfere, or will that cause problems in the 2k-2500rpm range where it will be running?? If so, what would be good values to put into table F1, for the break-in procedure??

Thanks for any input. I'm definitely a noob, so please excuse any "less-than-experienced" questions/statements.

 

subscribing cause I'm going to be dealing with a similar issue, need to know before i start hehe!

 

honestly, since you have an ostrich, i would just set the desired idle speeds to whatever RPM you plan on keeping it at for the ~20 minutes or so that the camshaft work-hardens.

if you need to play with advance, at least you can do it real-time. just know that retarded timing with turbos will heat up the exhaust gases REAL quick.

 

you wanna make sure you have enough timing when you start the engine. the worst thing you can do is to try and break it in without enough timing. I would put everything together exactly as you plan to run it, change the injector constants to match the injectors, leave the timing in the code59 as is, and tweak your engine idle via the set screw once you get it fired.

alternately, you can use the ostrich to set the idle speed, but don't know if there are any gotchas with that.

keep close eye on WB, and timing, you wanna run a good solid 20 degrees at idle initially(distributor initial, plus advance) then tweak from there to get the engine running smoothly. keep an eye on exhaust temps as well, a handheld laser thermometer is a good investment.

with a larger cam than stock, you will most likely have to pull fuel so it's not rich, so I would say focus on that until you get it somewhere close to 13-14:1 AFR range. you won't build boost without a load, so there are no concerns regarding boost fueling for break-in.

make sure you use good oil (or treatment) with the needed zinc/phosphorus additives for flat tappet.

 

What I like to do for spark timing when breaking in engines. Is to tighten the distributor clamp enough that it won't move on it's own, but can still be moved by hand.

Connect a timing light and make sure you know where the damper & tab marks are and that they are visible (not covered in dirt, grime, or such).

Get the engine started, bring up the RPM, and check the timing with the light. Adjust distributor for at good 30* to 36* of advance. Note that even more may be used as the engine isn't under load. Can listen to the engine for what it likes for timing during this time.

Setting the idle speed high prior to start up is helpful. Although it may be better to block open the TB, or even crank it open with the idle stop screw.

As once the engine is started you will be looking for leaks, checking the coolant level, making sure things are going OK. The last thing you need to be doing is messing with the laptop/tune and trying to figure out if it is working or not.

RBob.