Same configuration as my old 3", but now with 4" diameter and a filter with a larger flow area. All I have to say is WOW. No A-to-B comparison dyno numbers to support what I'm saying, but the ol' butt dyno shows a significant improvement above 3500 rpm. The entire upgrade (K&N filter, 4" aluminum tubing, silicone elbows etc) cost ~$100. Well worth the money!

 

sounds interesting

any pics?

 

like to see pics

 

Very cool car!

But until we see pics it's a FAIL!

 

Yes, see those pic's

 

Ask and ye shall receive! This picture was taken before I got the final hose clamp for the assembly. The expert eye will notice there's a hose clamp missing...

Also, there's a bracket that you can't see that's supporting the filter from underneath. The filter came with a 1/4-20 stud built into it which made a very convenient mounting point for it.

 

well that isn't a thirdgen engine bay.....

That isn't picking up any hot air off the back of the radiator????

Looks good otherwise!

 

You can't see it in the photo, but I put a little heat shield between the air filter and the radiator to try to divert hot air from being pulled into the air filter.

 

i tried on my 88 to make a 4 inch cold air intake with a 4 inch maf. Didn't pick up to much maybe 5 hp but was a nightmare to tune, so went back to a 3 inch. Surprised you picked up that much power, what did the dyno say the difference was?

 

No dyno numbers (like I said on the original post). Everything I'm claiming is purely intuitive.

BTW, where'd you get the 4" maf? I may need one soon as I'm planning to change over to an LT1 PCM

 

made one

 

Transplanted the 3" maf electronics into a 4" tube, I gather?

 

The LT1 MAFs are 3.5". I have one, and it doesnt pose any restriction, at least up to 6k. If your running a cam with overlap, Ive found that the intake ducting can have a significant impact on the torque of the engine. I surmise that this is due to the mass of the air in the duct preventing reversion from the cylinders, so teh engine makes more torque as you loose less cylinder pressure when both valves are open. I used this with my old isky cam to restore torque at low engine speeds by basically messing around with the intake until I got the right length. With an open element on the TB, the engine basically had no low end torque. With a properly tuned intake, at WOT, it behaved just like a cam with no overlap.

 

As for the LT1 MAF itself, its actually a plastic insert on teh older models that has the sensing elements mounted to metal strips that run across. The plastic section then mounts between two alum. venturis with a honeycomb screen and an airfoil that straightens and directs air over the sensing elements. You cant relocate these, at least not easily. If you want to make your own MAF, you need to get one of the probe or blade types that you can install into a section of pipe. These are available on the later model GMs.