squirrel

Can not get timing set at damper, 92 Chevy PU with 350 Vortec swap using GMPP TBI intake, orignal TBI and injectors, no other mods, motor is stock.With EST disconnected, attempting to set at 0, on a warm motor the timing jumps constantly back and forth, no smooth idle, pops out the exhaust and through the T-body. With 1 attempt, had it set on 0, plugged the EST, took a drv, abt. 10 min. into the drv.it starts popping, sputtering and goes dead. With hood up, and checking the plug from the ICM to coil, aft. yrs. of tune-ups these wires have been spliced with a newer plug, I laid my elbow on the + side of battery post, burned, pretty hot. Aft. sitting for a bit, it fired up to get me home, barely sputtering and popping. Had a friend over today for suggestions, he noticed EBL was very warm. Last week wife was helping me bump starter for TDC, starter would not stop spinning aft 1 attempt, pulled cable to stop, had a burned wire that got on the manifold. What would cause the EBL and the battery to be hot like this? Today aft. giving up for the nite, a couple hrs. later and felt the EBL, was still, what I considered to be too warm, so pulled the cable on the battery. Stumped

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Dave sent me an email, I'll also include this info in my response to him.

With the EST/BYPASS open the ECM can not control the timing. That is unless the ICM is bad. The ICM does have auto advance built in for limp mode. It kicks in once above 1600 RPM or so.

If the RPM stays under 1600 and the timing is jumping around with the EST/BYPASS open I would suspect a bad pick up coil.

Try to get a new pigtail for the ICM to coil connection. They do fail after some period of time.

A hot battery can be from over charging. The hot terminal can be from corrosion of the cable to clamp, or clamp to battery post. The higher resistance causes the connection to heat up. More so when cranking at that requires high current.

The ECM does run hot. This is normal as the case is the heat sink to dissipate the heat. Looking at your location I imagine that it is also quite warm there.

RBob.

squirrel

Thanks for the reply rBob. Dave is a new nieghbor, and haven't spent much time with him, seems to be pretty knowledgeable. Have gone from the pickup coil to the cap, not wires, yet. Will try to get GM pickup coil and try it, in hopes of a cure for this, Thanks again, Don

Dominic Sorresso

Squirrel,

If your damper is a 2 piece, the outer ring may be moving in relation to the hub. Check that.

rusty vango

isnt this a forum for third gen camaros and firebirds??? did you say you got a PICK UP ??

squirrel

rusty vango if its a problem with the mods of this forum, then I will back out and not post another question. Been reading this forum, and others, and will continue, since early 2000's and even tho I am not a heavy poster of questions I'm very sorry , Sir, for posting a question thats not concerning a 3 gen automobile. I come to this forum for mostly TBI Topics, and now for much needed info concerning the EBL, in which I like very much and its beginning to load up with a boat-load of info abt. the EBL. Its seems I have read other post and replies, that applies to none 3 gen autos. Will not waste my time hunting for those, which I consider your reply, petty My apologies to the forum readers and mods for my mistake, and rbob, I may have found my problem, from this point, I will contact you through e-mail. Thank you Thirdgen.org for being a wonderful forum to learn from.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

rusty, yes this is a thirdgen F body site.
posts here in DIY PROM that can be related to a thirdgen such as this one are fine.
swapping in a 96 or later 350 Vortec is a very nice upgrade over the factory TBI LO3 305 or LO5 350 for someone wanting a boost in both performance and fuel mileage without breaking the bank.

squirrel, i've seen bad modules also cause problems with the timing jumping around with the bypass open.
im not a big fan of aftermarket modules, i've had too many problems with them so i recommend using a Delco module.

squirrel

Thanks DENN_SHAH, yeah, I'm a fan of Delco myself, had a new 1 a few days ago, swapping different parts in and out in hopes of curing this. Have had a new friend I've just met, that seems pretty knowledgeable with automobiles helping me several days with no luck as of yet. Will not idle smooth enough to set the timing, and when we do get a, somewhat good idle, I tighten dist. down, then it goes to crap. Have been thinking abt. the injectors,230,000+ on these, unfortunately, 1 thing I did not maintain, could this possibly be my problem? On the WUD, my o2 is bouncing up and down as well, along with the SA. I NEED HELP, I'm stumped. Have lowered my FP down, had an 18 Lb. spring in it, changed that and same thing, went down to 15. Abt. the injectors, hope I'm not out of bounds with this, could someone recommend a place to clean and flow test, if need be you could PM me. New PU coil, ICM, cap, all Delco. The dist. was 1 I got with the motor, which was a long blk. It appears to be the same as the original that came with the vehicle, same size base, I did change the gear to the hardened 1. Good vacum reading, around 20-22 Thanks folks

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

no problem.

i did a Vortec short block swap into a friends 89 TBI 4WD Suburban a couple of years back. we stayed with the swirl port heads because he needed the torque for pulling boats.
i did replace his injectors because we had no ideal how many miles he had on the truck, this is motor #4. he knows he put about 175K on the second motor and at least the same if not more on #3. the first motor had around 200K on t.

your injectors may have problems, but from what you've described i don't think its a fuel problem. check the resistance and see what it looks like.
if you do decide to get a new set, there are a couple sponsoring members here that sell injectors.
southbay08, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/member.php?u=88662
InjectorsPlus, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/member.php?u=124926

there is also FIC who is not a member here,
http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/index.php
i believe southbay may have a coupon code for an additional discount.

this is a long shot, but its something i've seen a few times.
check the relucter on the dist shaft, on rare occasions they can get loose on the shaft and move around.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

i got an E-mail from another person about this thread a few weeks back and thought i would post up that the problem is fixed along with the main info exchanged and some links i sent to squirrel in PM for any other future searches.

from me,
"if the reluctor moves on the shaft, that is a problem and you'll never get the timing just right.
if it spins on the shaft, that is a major problem and the timing will be all over the place and there is no way to set the timing.

another thought i had, the distributor your using doesn't have mechanical or vacuum advance, right?

8 points for a V-8, 6 for a 6 cylinder. the pickup coil should have the same number of "teeth" as the reluctor. i have replaced just the reluctor before, but it was many years ago.
it shouldn't be real hard to remove, but it should take more than hand pressure. it also must be in the right position on the shaft. IIRC, there is either a tab or a pin on the shaft that lines up the reluctor."

even though its about a distributor with both mechanical and vacuum advance, these are pretty good links for distributors,
http://rustynutscarclub.com/HEI.htm

http://www.rustpuppy.org/ignition2/Ignition%202b.htm

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...or-signal.html

"Hey man, just letting you know, it's all good now, new distributor delivered and in, timing set, and it stays set, no moving, EST plugged in, advances, and stays solid. The SA reading on the WUD is steady."