Here are the readouts from my latest datalog- please give me some feedback- I have to be at something at 7, which is 21 miles away.. and I don't want to make it with my car acting as it is.

The basics of my engine:
305 TBI
059 Vortec Heads (9.0:1 Compression)
Professional Products Hurricane Intake (Single plane)
VAFPR (set between 25 and 33psi- not sure. need to purchase gauge)
Ported TBI

Problems:
Main problem is that it has a hard time idleing. If I leave it in drive with my foot on the brake at a stoplight, it stalls out and dies. I have to shift into neutral at stops and sometimes have to feather the throttle to keep it from dying. It's also running kind of rough, omitting the intermittent "thump" or knock- however you'd describe it.
This morning it was doing the same thing and I saw that it was running VERY rich (1000+mv from the O2 sensor). It's leaned out now and looks a bit better, but still isn't running like it should be

I really need to have this thing better by tonight. I know it'll make the trip (42-50 miles round trip- mostly highway), but I don't want to make it endure it if not running the way it should be.

 

More screenshots. I can email the datalog if you PM me with your email address

 

One more. Sorry if this is in violation of forum rules. I really need this thing to be OK tonight.

 

Post your SA table.

Looks like you need to pull some sub 1k timing, too much makes a rough idle and the KS is pulling 5-8.

 

If your SA looks legit my next instinct is a vacuum leak or MAP problem.

 

Thanks for responding! SA table delivered

Edit: I'm going to check around the top end and tighten where I can.. after I make a run to the bank before it closes. I'll be back to respond within 45 minutes though

 

Back. Had a hell of a time getting out of the bank parking lot. Stalled 3 or 4 times getting out of the lot but was good after that. Any other input?

I forgot to mention, it has an LT1 cam and I TDC'd it when I installed the timing chain. Also, when I got the car started I didn't rotate the distributor cap any, I just tightened the nut and left it, as I was glad to finally have the car running- could this correspond to my problems? I guess you'd be able to tell from the spark data

 

Come on guys.. any more feedback? I'm leaving in like a half hour.

 

SA table looks ok, no glaring problems. What we don't know for sure is the base setting.

When you can, get a light & set the base. For now move the base till it runs better.

I hope you have good wires, don't hit your head on the hood, elbow on the hinge ect. if it shocks you.

 

Two things that you have to do first. Use the main and extended SA tables from the 3000 BIN. They are for Vortec heads and are a lot different then the SA table you are currently using. The other thing is to get a timing light and set the base timing.

There are likely other odds & ends, but these two items must be done first.

RBob.

 

Oh my, that's really gonna wake her up!

Thanks RBob, his knock count had me shy of recommending more lead.

Ron what bin did you start with?

 

Thanks for the feedback- I'll do that. And I started with the 16 BIN for a stock 305 TBI: adjusted the BPC vs. Vac and BST- BPC vs. Boost for approximately 27 or 28 PSI and have a few VE learns on it.

But at least I made it to and from my destination. Almost all highway, averaged 20mpg (and burned about 2.5 gallons). I'll plug the SA tables in now so it'll be ready for when I go to work tomorrow. At freaking 7AM.

By the way, I'm running 87 Octane. Should I fill up with something more potent? I'm only at 9:1 compression and I drive a lot (for a relatively broke rising college freshman) so I'd like to keep it low.

 

I figured that the base timing was cranked up to get the swirl port SA tables to give any kind of power with the Vortec heads. So it was either riding the knock sensor or there is something loose on the engine.

RBob.

 

Be sure to set the base timing with the engine warmed up. In the BIN you used it is at 0* BTDC, unless you changed it in the BIN.

The 87 octane should be OK. Those Vortec SA tables are from a truck, so they are mild.

If the knocking continues then need to pull some plugs and see if there are signs of detonation. Otherwise like the previous post, there is something else causing the false knock. Loose accessory bracket, exhaust rattle, noisy valve-train, and so on will do it.

RBob.

 

Verify your fuel pressure and calculate the proper psi needed for your injectors at your FWHP. Set your BPC accordingly afterwards.

 

Going to order the FP gauge adapter tomorrow so I can hook up a fuel pressure gauge.
Had to work another job after my main job so I'm almost running on fumes here, but I'm going to get this computer issue mostly sorted out tonight, and I'll pull some plugs to check for signs of detonation.
Is there an easy way to plug the SA table into my current working BIN, or should I just use the Vortec BIN and adjust it accordingly?
I spent most of my time after work putting the heater valve back in after dumping 1.5 gallons of coolant in traffic earlier today. The fun never ends lol

Edit: Disregard my question about the SA table- I had to figure out the whole "compare bin" thing

 

OK, you got it. Also see the Intro to Tuning pages on our web site. The first is a tutorial on Tuner Pro and the WUD, with the second covering getting started tuning with the EBL system.

RBob.

 

Took the car to a local shop and they adjusted the timing. They said it was advanced by about 30 degrees. I'd have done it myself, but my grandparents wanted to have them check it over anyway and picked up the tab. It's running great now and I can't wait to do some more tuning with EBL. Maybe I can even bump the FP back up, but I'll have to see what the data says

 

Also, can I email my latest datalog for one of you guys to interpret? Just want to know if I'm running rich and what adjustments to make

 

Here's my latest VE learn, taken last night. Does this mean I should dial down the FP?

 

Not required to change the fuel pressure due to those corrections. They are getting close, or you started out close. A few more learns and they'll be +- 2 or so.

Regarding the fuel pressure, it is based on the maximum seen injector duty cycle (DC%). I like to see the max DC% in the 80 to 85% range. This means that the engine has just the right amount of fuel delivery. Not too much that tuning low loads is difficult. And not, not enough which makes WOT possibly lean.

Obviously, when checking the DC% the AFR needs to also be correct. Such as, if the WOT AFR is 10:1 and the DC% is 90, changing whatever needs to be changed to get the WOT AFR in the 12.8:1 range will also lower the DC%.

RBob.

 

Not if your BPC is calculated correctly!

All it means is that the VE values are a bit high. Do a VE Learn off that datalog. You may want to manually remove some fuel in those areas of no hit. Specifically that square 400-1200 50-100 map.

How were you able to log 90 MAP? Climbing a mountain? Or towing a 3000# trailer?

Robo Bob types faster than me

 

Right now my injectors hardly ever make it over 50% DC, but of course I have yet to go WOT. My transmission isn't exactly comfortable with anything over half throttle. Hopefully this Sunday I'll have time to install the shift kit so I can beat on it a bit.

Still have to get that damn adapter off ebay and a FP gauge from Summit so I can dial in the BPC right. As for the 90 MAP, I have no idea lol.