Let me start by saying that im very new to the whole tuning situation so be gentle, and im tuning an 89 maf car with 6E and modified apyp bin. My problem is that the car doesnt want to idle expecially when u initially put it in gear. It will idle once its in gear but when u put it in gear it drops low around 500 and then surges till it stalls. It will sometimes do this same surge till stall when not going into gear.

From my logs it looks like its idling fine then once rpms start to drop LV8 rises causing BPW to rise. The 2 things im having trouble understanding is that while my BPW is going up my O2 is showing that its going from rich to slightly leaner. Its going from 860 to 780. Shouldnt it be getting richer since BPW is going from 1.90 to 5.80 and essentially flooding the engine.

The secong thing i cant understang is that my maf voltage is very irregular. Its around 9.50 at 800 rpms and it stays constant as the RPMS are dragging down to stalling range. Shouldnt voltage go down as rpms are falling. Also at one point at 350 RPMS it reads 10.10 volts. Then once its back to 825 RPMS later on maf voltage is 12.75.

Also earlier tonight i was coming home from Cruising the coast and i lost fuel. It was fine cruising down interstate. Once i get off and start back from a stop it acts like its not fueling correctly. Any gas given by me would result in the motor almost stalling and i notice the AFR gauge going all the way lean. It would idle tho. Once i cut the car off and restarted, throttle came back and i was able to make it home. Im thinking i have a bad maf.

 

Ok I am running the same setup with an APYP based bin. I have also used ARAP. There is at least one thread in the "Tuning Guide" section that specifically deals with ARAP starting issues.
The MAF may have issues as you suspect. I notice some strange low spikes during my log sessions. I also get a "high maf" signal code from time to time. Seems to be more common on cold starts. Watch the maf during startup. IIRC the stock ARAP has a higher setting at low flow (top of table 1) which should explain the higher readings on start. It's there to add fuel at cranking speeds. If you are flooding out you may need to reduce the entry at the top of T1. You may also want to see what the SA timing is doing at this time. Crank and afterstart SA can be adjusted with their respective tables.
I know this doesn't give you specifics but I would reread some of the stickies on this subject and go though it piece by piece. Short of hardware failure it is most likely a couple of settings.

 

Well when i started tuning everything seemed to rich. My BLMs were always around 108. Which seems weird being that its a stock APYP bin and im running a .020 over 350 with XE 268 Cam, runners and ported upper intake, and headers with higher flowing exhaust. I figured with all my mods i would be lean and have to richen it up but the opposite was my problem. I got it running pretty good by lowering the scalars accross the board accept for #6 and just tweaked the lower entries on #6 so they would be close to the end of #5. My BLMs were closer to 128 and in open loop it was running on the rich side but it was consistant throughout part throttle. But when i lowered the scalar on #1 table it made the car idle really rough, i noticed the O2 was really lean so i moved the scalar back to where it was and the idle smoothed out really good. But it still does its stalling when going into gear.

Im thinking i might just convert to SD and start from there.

 

I hear ya on the SD issue. If I had major maf problem I may. However, I suspect that it will be a lot of the same basic changes to make with some advantages/disadvantages. Either way, it takes a good understanding of the tuning process, OEM goals and learning the program and what to do. If you are new to tuning, I don't necessarily think SD would make it a lot easier.

Now with the MAF, the tune can be optimized and when you get a lot of things in line (SA IC taking care of EGR or AIR delet) the rest will come. I had to really think about what was going on. Once I got close I could then focus on things like MPG and the extreme conditions. I undertstand you gotta get it to idle in gear but you may find it is the basic tune still needs some attention.