newb quest: what were the first things you modified when starting out tuning?
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Just starting out w/ a moates emulation/tuning/burning setup.
Look back in your past, and when you first started messing around with tuning, what was it that you did? I think I would like to see what others did to get booted. If that first success worked for you, it might just work for me too!
Look back in your past, and when you first started messing around with tuning, what was it that you did? I think I would like to see what others did to get booted. If that first success worked for you, it might just work for me too!
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Look back in your past, and when you first started messing around with tuning, what was it that you did? I think I would like to see what others did to get booted. If that first success worked for you, it might just work for me too!
Booted Originally Posted by EvelBist
Just starting out w/ a moates emulation/tuning/burning setup.Look back in your past, and when you first started messing around with tuning, what was it that you did? I think I would like to see what others did to get booted. If that first success worked for you, it might just work for me too!
Tons of information in reading the stickies
https://www.thirdgen.org/promintro
That section "Modifying the BIN" in the link is the bomb!
booted - kind of like when the tree goes green at the strip!
booted - kind of like when the tree goes green at the strip!
My car day one of tuning (Stage1)was significantly modded. Second round of modding(Stage2) required same. So i changed about everything.
I did something Grumpy told everybody NOT to do. Copied his VE table. I didn't get much further than down the driveway. Was like riding a Brahma in a rodeo.
I can laugh about it now.
Read as much stuff as you can from the stickies especially RBob's papers on IAC and PID controls.
TRAXIONs stuff on taming a more radical cam. Visit www.dynamicefi.com for a good primer on terminology and tips.
Frankly, it turned out to be helpful for tuning an LT-5 by starting w the LOWLY
Xfire and a 7747.
I can laugh about it now.
Read as much stuff as you can from the stickies especially RBob's papers on IAC and PID controls.
TRAXIONs stuff on taming a more radical cam. Visit www.dynamicefi.com for a good primer on terminology and tips.
Frankly, it turned out to be helpful for tuning an LT-5 by starting w the LOWLY
Xfire and a 7747.
Well with maf, there are certain things to do but all dependent on combo being tuned
If you are starting with a stock to mild modded setup, theres not much to change in a bin file to get started.
I like to change timing tables around by deleting the PE mode spark adder table and working from main table only. I will leave the coolant temp spark tables there but may change those numbers abit. But i make main table my base table with full timing values i wish to see at the motor. Smooth it out, set up wot timing to a target depending on combo, bring it in early and lock out idle cells. Thats my starting point for now
I set idle command speed, base timing and injectors to match what i have. Disable egr if not using. Maybe set fan turn on temp alittle sooner. Maybe disable vats if not desired.
Other than that, for a mild combo or stocker, no other changes. Just try starting and logging motor once it runs. There are some auto trans converter lock settings you can also adjust before driving. Thats all personal preference
Heavy cam heads and or stroker stuff, things start to get more complicated but not by much.
Idle speed is generally alot higher than stock, 800-1000 rpm. Adjust stall saver values accordingly. Can adjust closed loop enable temps or disable all together. Big cam may not like closed loop but there are o2 tables you can adjust for proper blm readout. Spark timing at idle i jack up from 20-21 deg stock to 24-30 depending how nasty cam is. Depending on compression and heads type, timing for wot and cruise i may change from stock bin. For instance vette L98 heads i may use ARAP bin timing for cruise which is alot higher. Those heads need timing. Fast burn modern heads or vortec types, bring timing down some, they dont need it. If running low oct gas and higher compression where it may be border line compatible on pump gas, go low on timing. Set up knock retard to pull alot of timing if knock detected. Its safer.
For hot racey motors like this, the maf will be maxed out at some point in the rpm range. Theres a min airflow table related to maf. I drastically raise the upper and mid range values to allow maf to read more grams/sec at lower rpms and loads to do as much fuel compensation as possible.
After that, i may go into pe mode enrichment vs rpm and add fuel percentages to the rpms above 4000, because i know its gonna need fuel. However unless you have had experience with tuning similar motors you may not know what it will need. In this case do not go wot. Gradually work your way into more and more throttle and have a wideband o2 sensor monitoring fuel ratios. Log it to see what rpms it starts to go lean while you enter PE mode. Gradually alter the pe mode enrich vs rpm table til you are getting proper air fuels in the 12-13 to one range.
Dont change timing til air fuel is correct. Then play with timing to find what motor wants. Will need to also adjust fuel after some timing changes. It can change.
Most combos will need some acceleration enrich changes if you change intakes and throttlebodies. There are a few tables to play with. Can easily test wot smashing of gas pedal and feeling the cars hesitation or bogging. Also watch wideband if its fast enough. I start with stock settings and add fuel enrich til hesitation is no longer and wideband doesnt spike lean or too rich.
Thats a start for you
If you are starting with a stock to mild modded setup, theres not much to change in a bin file to get started.
I like to change timing tables around by deleting the PE mode spark adder table and working from main table only. I will leave the coolant temp spark tables there but may change those numbers abit. But i make main table my base table with full timing values i wish to see at the motor. Smooth it out, set up wot timing to a target depending on combo, bring it in early and lock out idle cells. Thats my starting point for now
I set idle command speed, base timing and injectors to match what i have. Disable egr if not using. Maybe set fan turn on temp alittle sooner. Maybe disable vats if not desired.
Other than that, for a mild combo or stocker, no other changes. Just try starting and logging motor once it runs. There are some auto trans converter lock settings you can also adjust before driving. Thats all personal preference
Heavy cam heads and or stroker stuff, things start to get more complicated but not by much.
Idle speed is generally alot higher than stock, 800-1000 rpm. Adjust stall saver values accordingly. Can adjust closed loop enable temps or disable all together. Big cam may not like closed loop but there are o2 tables you can adjust for proper blm readout. Spark timing at idle i jack up from 20-21 deg stock to 24-30 depending how nasty cam is. Depending on compression and heads type, timing for wot and cruise i may change from stock bin. For instance vette L98 heads i may use ARAP bin timing for cruise which is alot higher. Those heads need timing. Fast burn modern heads or vortec types, bring timing down some, they dont need it. If running low oct gas and higher compression where it may be border line compatible on pump gas, go low on timing. Set up knock retard to pull alot of timing if knock detected. Its safer.
For hot racey motors like this, the maf will be maxed out at some point in the rpm range. Theres a min airflow table related to maf. I drastically raise the upper and mid range values to allow maf to read more grams/sec at lower rpms and loads to do as much fuel compensation as possible.
After that, i may go into pe mode enrichment vs rpm and add fuel percentages to the rpms above 4000, because i know its gonna need fuel. However unless you have had experience with tuning similar motors you may not know what it will need. In this case do not go wot. Gradually work your way into more and more throttle and have a wideband o2 sensor monitoring fuel ratios. Log it to see what rpms it starts to go lean while you enter PE mode. Gradually alter the pe mode enrich vs rpm table til you are getting proper air fuels in the 12-13 to one range.
Dont change timing til air fuel is correct. Then play with timing to find what motor wants. Will need to also adjust fuel after some timing changes. It can change.
Most combos will need some acceleration enrich changes if you change intakes and throttlebodies. There are a few tables to play with. Can easily test wot smashing of gas pedal and feeling the cars hesitation or bogging. Also watch wideband if its fast enough. I start with stock settings and add fuel enrich til hesitation is no longer and wideband doesnt spike lean or too rich.
Thats a start for you
There are some auto trans converter lock settings you can also adjust before driving.
Ok, that brings up a couple of newb type questions:
1: does a torque conv have a "lock" rpm range? IOW, if a TC has a stall of 1100-1400, does the lock have to occur in that range? Better to lock below or above for economy/performance?
2: can you completely disable the "lock" function? Why would one want to do that?
Ok, that brings up a couple of newb type questions:
1: does a torque conv have a "lock" rpm range? IOW, if a TC has a stall of 1100-1400, does the lock have to occur in that range? Better to lock below or above for economy/performance?
2: can you completely disable the "lock" function? Why would one want to do that?
No converter doesnt have a lock range as far as rpm goes. You adjust it via throttle position and mph. There is a lock mph and unlock mph in high and low gear. Stock is something around 40-50 mph. With stock converter that aint to bad but if you have 3000-4000 stall or higher, and you drive in places where road speed limit may be 25-40 mph, then may want to lock earlier. I locked mine at 25-30 mph with heavier throttle position so i could crawl up hills when stuck behind traffic and not burn my trans up
There is ways to disable. Set all lock up mph to high speed and full throttle. It wont lock up
Also theres a unlock prevention threshold mph. Most cars seem to be set between 70-90 mph. When you hit that speed no matter what gear or throttle position the converter will lock. This is good if you have a converter that can handle wot lockups and used for dyno tuning. Locked converter will eliminate slip on dyno and show more true power at wheels. Some use it at the track and gain et and mph. I however never saw gains rather losses in time. So i set my unlock prevention threshold to high speeds like 140. Back when i was trapping 125-128, setting unlock to 140 ensured converter stayed open during entire 1/4 mile pass
There is ways to disable. Set all lock up mph to high speed and full throttle. It wont lock up
Also theres a unlock prevention threshold mph. Most cars seem to be set between 70-90 mph. When you hit that speed no matter what gear or throttle position the converter will lock. This is good if you have a converter that can handle wot lockups and used for dyno tuning. Locked converter will eliminate slip on dyno and show more true power at wheels. Some use it at the track and gain et and mph. I however never saw gains rather losses in time. So i set my unlock prevention threshold to high speeds like 140. Back when i was trapping 125-128, setting unlock to 140 ensured converter stayed open during entire 1/4 mile pass