I know I need to change and do more tune up work but Ihave been down the replace everything only to find out the auto zones were bad and old parts good. I have a good running car and been sitting for a while and I want to drive around with little more normal conditions.

Using APU1 tunerpro 88 lb9 auto all sensors work no codes. data logging looks good. replaced fuel system tranny cap rotor still needs plugs wires and I have set of injectors. But before I swap those in I like to test (before after) some simple tunes.

So far it appears I have 02 issue and running rich. Car idles ok smells rich but sounds little too loud maybe slight miss or leaky injector or vac leaks but it runs doesnt stall I can cruise around but no power.

So I have 2 optins and using your tips and experience and quick direction and what tables/tune to look at before I do more engine work.

Option 1: Using stock 02 or even o2 unplugged it doesnt seem to matter to ECM I sit at .4-.5mv and never hit closed loop. Car will run though albeit around 800-1000 rpm but pretty solid wont stall. spark adv is around 30 and I didnt see any knock retard but not sure if much to tune since BLM not used. My g/s at idel are 11-12g/s


option 2: using wb and nb simulate. The NB output immediatly pegs the o2 sensor to 1v and my car instantly goes into closed loop. I can not get APU to read the WB 0-5volts. (see previous data stream post) my 165ecm payload seems to be byte 27 but inpout doesnt make sense even with conversion i do not see much movement and values are whack but voltages start out at 4.5 and go to zero in few secons meaning I am running rich and AFR is then pegged at 10. Makes sense and ALDL data shows closed loop and rich condition.

my BLM and INT are 109 and 100 after few minutes if idle. temps and other things seem ok. BPW is 90-110 range and inj bpw volts is 2.2

I assume this is rich. anyone have luck doing quick tune to globally offset rich condiotn for temp fix? IE can I just change global AFR from 14.7 to something else to shift tables up or down?


I like to achieve:
1: quick test make sure I am tune and burning properly
2: verify some immediate results from current CL conditon where it is pig wich and stalls to at leats it runs and I can get some data logs
3: then after a drive to get some new tires and car wash I will rip off intake and replace gaskets, block off egr, AIR, and install new injectors and use stock bin again and be able to see a differance.


so any one have similar experience? ideas? just play with open loop to get it to run quickly and then do maint and try CL tune with new parts?

 

looks like your rich condition has killed your nb o2 !

 

Well it's simulated from the wb. But it appears the wb signal is working it reads from 0-5v and drops to 0 meaning it is 10. Put agai it appears to work and I have not used the wb for more then. A total of 15 minutes could that kill a heated wb that quick?

 

I thought you were stating the nb o2 was stuck at .5 and not moving when the engine was warmed up. like it was silicone poisoned, carbon fouled, or dead.

 

Here is my 02 situation.

New Stock O2: It seems to not switch much. (again car is rich) but typically sits in the .45-.55 range I have seen .3 and .7. And does not go into close loop. I have not driven really this is all at idle maybe for 1-=5 minutes. but still should hit closed loop by then.

New 14point7.com Sparta WB with Narrowband sim output
This one was weird. i think it is broken from factory. Installed I found the ground for both heater and outputs to common car together helped a lot. Useing VMM I can see 0-5v output on the wb. It drops to .1v quickly once car is running. IE: this is about 10.5-11AFR.

My narrowband when using the WB sim output my O2 in tunerpro immediately sees 1.094v and pegs out. BUT my car also enters closed loop mode. Runs worse then open loop.

So I can unhook the narrow band sim from the stock o2 harness. So not even connected and the o2 readings sits at .5v (I assume just default value from ecm)

or I can install and I get 1v

I will probably put stock o2 back in and see if I get better swings and maybe enetr closed loop wth some tuning

 

Headers? Maybe it is not getting hot enough. Most use a heated NB02 and then it hits CL as soon as coolant reaches about 150-155dF.

How does a plug look?

 

Original plugs looked blackish brown but not gummed up. so appeared little rich at base of threads but seen worse.

I still have to chnage all the plugs I did just 1. and the boot fell apart in my hand. I know I know could be my problem right there not firing or missing some holes.

I did change cap rotor icm and coil already along with fuel pump, fuel tank, new lines
I put in a walpro 255 it is running at 40psi at idle and leaks down in about 15-20 minutes on stock injectors. I have new set of plugs and new injectors to swap in but before I crack it open I wanted to see some tune progress see if I can dial some fuel out improve it for now.

it doesn't sound bad at all it starts right up idles fine in ol, little rough at idle and stalls in cl but idles drops low and and it is rich. So I I will check timing tps iac again