Hello Happy 3rd Gen Folks...
Even though I am running a 70 Suburban you guys are the cool kids on this ECM DIY stuff so I am joining up and playing over here.
Thanks in advance for everyone who has posted before, ton of reading and searching to get me this far.

The vehicle...
1970 Suburban bought with carb'd "300hp" crate motor...specs can be posted.
Junkyarded my way to a factory 350 TBI setup.
Howell harness to tie it all together and Howell burned my first few proms.
That was ok but still too much fuel at idle and no power going up hills.

Trans is a 700r4, NO VSS sorry




I ordered the DynamicEFI EBL Flash, have it running with my Acer Notebook and datalogging, flashing and all that seems to be working well. Even have my other laptop in the rig to search and post to forums while playing in the driveway....love WiFi



I started with the EBL Flash 2011 BIN as that was a basic 350 TBI, 700r4, fed from 1988 so sounded generic enough.
The EBL calc utility helped me refigure some numbers based on 20lbs of fuel pressure and my 61lb/hr injectors.




TurnerPro helped me reset my BPC-BPC vs VAC and BST-BPC vs Boost, double check my Intial Spark Adv was 0...anything else I should change??

The 2011 BIN has a nice smooth VE low table...



However when I do a VE Learn and flash the new BIN I end up with a bumpy mess......should I do anything in TunerPro to fix it or just keep going through VE Learns and let things work themselves out?




So ECM gurus.....
What changes should I make so the ECM knows I don't have any speed sensor or does that matter?
Right now I am working on idle and around town stuff before I tackle highway power on hills.
I will be putting in the DynamicEFI TT-1 Wideband now that I understand in goes in addition to my current AC Delco Narrow band....put that will happen next week I think.

I will try to upload my current BIN and a datalog
Thanks in advance

 

Here are the cam specs if anyone was curious
Camshaft, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Duration at .050 in. Lift 212/ 222, .435/.460 in. Lift, Chevy, Small Block

 

Ok after 6 cycles of VE Learn with just a NB (narrow band O2 sensor) things are slowly getting better.

I ended up with this as my VE Low graph



Thanks to finding the smoothing function in TunerPro I did a 0.05 across the board smooth and ended up with this



However it smoothed everything UP...which I didn't really want.
So now how do I get things back DOWN in areas and learn how to smooth DOWN or at least neutral?

Thanks for tagging along for the ride.

 

Don't do that...

Back up to the previous BIN.

RBob.

 

Copy that sir....
Going back to previous BIN number 5 and won't use TunerPro smoothing....can I ask:
Do I need a nice smooth graph?
If so what is the best way to get there?
Big Thanks

Here is the VE Low graph for BIN 2011 VE Learn Version 5



I assume I am still getting too much fuel??
What do the colors mean? Too much or too little fuel? Or just rich vs lean or ??
Should I manually drag things down to be smoother using TunerPro?

Here is the BIN that matches that graph and the DAT file from EBL Flash ( changed it to a TXT file to get it to upload, just download and change back I think)

 

You are going to need more timing than a TBI head setup. That engine should have the Marine version of the 083s with the casting number ending in 217.

 

So do you mean more Initial Timing dialed in or for the Spark Advance to kick in sooner and to a great degree....if that is possible.
Still learning and very grateful, thanks

 

I don't know what heads are on your engine, but it is important to know. Pull a valve cover and get the casting number, post it.

The reason is that different heads have different spark advance (SA) requirements. The BIN you started with is for swirl port heads which have very low SA requirements. If the engine doesn't have swirl port but a regular type of head, you are leaving a lot of power and mileage on the table.

RBob.

 

In the end, mostly.

Yes.

The colors are just a representation of the VE% value in the table (0 - 100%).

You can do that, the short VE Learn does show how far to reduce the VE table. Leave it a little on the richer side (higher VE), as that is better then too lean.

Then continue on with the VE Learns. Be sure to get the head casting number so you can get the right spark advance table in there.

RBob.

 

All I had to do on the last GM 300 HP 350 crate engine was pull the Oil cap off and the casting numbers were staring at me. Had 217' heads which are the same in every way as 083s. My point was that a swirl port timing table was not a good starting point.

The 72 Elcamino this engine was in liked 12° initial timing and had 22° of centrifical advance all in by 2,600 for a total of 34° of timing at 2,600. Used a 10° @ 10 in/hg vacuum advance canister for a L82 Corvette. This one was carb and our gas is E10. It had a new Edelbrock 600cfm 1406 "fuel economy" jetted carb, plugs were chalky white (lean). I looked up the jetting chart for the 1405 600cfm performance carb and went 1 step richer in power/cruise and secondaries. Put in new Delco MR43TS plugs. Car ran alot better. Plugs ended up a nice light tan and power was way up. Killed the 3.08 rear end which was later rebuilt with 3.73s. The engine had to come out after 6-7 years of sitting to get resealed. The owner wanted more power. The TH350 trans was resealed and a 2500 converter added. The GM intake manifold got traded for a Performer RPM. The rusty 1.5" primary headers had a nice set of 1 5/8" super comps put in their place. Also swapped the 1.5 factory stamped rockers for a set of 1.52:1 full rollers. The heavy factory steel pulleys left for a setof march aluminum underdrives. Swapped out the HEI module for a MSD 6a box an put on a good set of custom built Accell 300+ race wires with HEI boots. Also put a 170°F thermostat in place of the 195 junk that was in it. The way that car runs you would think it had more like 350 HP.

 

Thanks for the great info guys...
Just got back from a weekend of highway and camping with 15 cycles of VE learn and adjustments.
I will see if I can get the actual casting number off the head but I do know that heads are NOT swirl port. My buddy who built the TBI setup for me remembers researching them...

I found that on the highway my SA (spark advance) was only around 10deg @ 2000 rpm and 60 Kpa. So I upped to around 25deg and in that range on the highway and things are much nicer now.

I am curious about a few settings that I can't figure out.

First...
I don't have a VSS (vehicle speed sensor)...how do I tell the BIN that? Is it worth the trouble to add one?

How do I tell the BIN not to worry what gear I am in?
The WUD (whats up display) shows I a in P/N (park/neutral) all the time.
I don't have any way to wire it from my 700r4

 

So I got my TT-1 WB (wide band O2) hooked up and I admit it does make it very interesting to see a deeper view of what is going on.

After a few more runs and meeting up with a buddy who actually understands what much of this data means I am getting a much better running setup.

Here is my current VE low table



And this is where I am at for SA (spark advance)....this is after manually adding about 10-15 degrees after doing some long highway miles on a camping trip this weekend.



I am finally getting small amount of knock...I still need to figure out how to tell the BIN that I have NO Charcoal canister, NO EGR, NO VSS (although I am seriously thinking of adding one) and NO gear selector...would love to tell it I am in drive all the time at least.

All thoughts welcome.

 

Depending on what steering column you have, it is easy to add the P/N/D. There are tons of factory GM column switches. I had a Jeep with a column that looked like yours, I used a switch from an early 80's Camaro if I remember. I was able to add the info and use the ECU to lock up the TCC on a 700R4. Just a thought.

 

On my 83 G20 I put a switch from a 1992 G20. Simply added a pair of terminals to one side for the ECM.

 

Ok so been doing more reading...and research...

I am going to add a VSS between the trans and speedo cable.
I am going to add an IAT (intake air temp sensor)
Anyone have a reference on what pins each of those need to be wired to?

But how do I tell my BIN file I have NO EGR ?

How do I tell it I have NO CHARCOAL CANISTER ?