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No luck on the LT1 or LT4 bins. the closest one I have is a TPI with aluminum heads. was I suppose to have more of a selection to choose from? here is everything I have available to start with.
Bin Name Description
-------------- ---------------------------------------------------
EBL_F_P4.BIN: Base for MPFI, basic 5.7l engine w/22 #/hr injectors
EBL_P4_3000.BIN: 5.7l Vortec head main & extended SA Tables
EBL_P4_3001.BIN: L05 5.7l, 700r4, Fed, 22#/hr inj, '90 2WD 1/2 & 3/4 ton truck
EBL_P4_3002.BIN: 3.1l MPFI, auto, 18.5#/hr inj
EBL_P4_3003.BIN: 5.0l TPI, 5-spd
EBL_P4_3004.BIN: 5.0l TPI, auto
EBL_P4_3005.BIN: 5.7l TPI, auto
EBL_P4_3006.BIN: 5.7l TPI, 6-spd, alum heads
EBL_P4_3007.BIN: HT502 BBC, TH400, 29 #/hr Inj
EBL_P4_3008.BIN: 454, 7.4l, 700R4, 29 #/hr Inj
EBL_P4_3009.BIN: 455 Olds, Auto, 29 #/hr Inj
EBL_P4_3010.BIN: 500 Caddy, Auto, 33 #/hr Inj
No luck on the LT1 or LT4 bins. the closest one I have is a TPI with aluminum heads. was I suppose to have more of a selection to choose from? here is everything I have available to start with.
That was my fault, I should have explained. The LT4 bin will not be in the EBL files because it is OBDII. You don't need the whole LT4 bin itself, you just need the SA Main Table from it. So the idea is to search for a copy of the SA Main Table from an LT4 alone, then base your individual SA Main Table on that table. You would basically rewrite your table with the degrees found in the LT4 SA Main Table, or copy and paste it if it lets you. A google search should bring it up, Gearhead EFI might even have it on that website if its still up and running. Not sure if RBob would have it, though he may. I would have to search my photobucket as I'm pretty sure I saved it on there. All it is, is the SA Main Table from the C4 LT4 Corvette. You would then tweak it to match your idle state down low...
Just be sure to do your VE Learns before hammering the throttle when/if you go with it, and take things slow. Be sure to nail your air/fuel first, then you can play...
I cant seem to find an LT4 SA table to save my life. I did find an LT1 and plan on trying it out after this snowstorm passes. Ill keep searching for the LT4 one. When you say "You would then tweak it to match your idle state down low..." do you mean try and match my idle RPM SA numbers to the idle state SA that I set at 24*? and then smooth it out so its not such a drastic change in that area of the table?
When you say "You would then tweak it to match your idle state down low..." do you mean try and match my idle RPM SA numbers to the idle state SA that I set at 24*? and then smooth it out so its not such a drastic change in that area of the table?
Yes, to avoid the ECM hunting & playing tug of war, so average the new idle area for 24* to match...
This is what im working on now. Its an LT1 table. I set the rpm area to 24 and smoothed the whole table quite a bit. Do you see anything I need to change before I try it out? I tried to look at a couple different LT4 bin files both from googling and from the website provided above to get a spark table from but im assuming because they are OBD2 they show up in tunerpro all sorts of whacked out. Is there a free software download I can get somewhere to load in OBD2 bins for reference?
So this is what ive been working on. I keep turning it up and smoothing it out a little at a time trying to maintain the 24* at idle. I notice a little power increase every time. I still have 0 spark knock in the wud. Is that how i tell if ive gone too far? Am i on the right track with this table?
I felt like my spark table was getting out of hand and the car wasnt reacting the way I thought it should. So I want to start from scratch with the timing. Timing light says im at 45* at idle (normal op temp). Obviously thats not right. Which plug on the dizzy do I disconnect before turning to bring it down to 24? Is it the 4 prong or 2 prong connector? If my idle state SA was that far off would it cause my computer to take over the SA at higher RPMs? Seemed like it didnt change much as i made changes to the table
There's a single-wire connector you unplug to set base timing. IIRC it is a brown wire. Not sure where it is on an F body, just trucks. It's in the harness, not at the distributor.
On 3rd gen EFI cars it is over by the HVAC box on the firewall. Single wire, tan with a black stripe. Exits the harness, has the connector, then back into the harness.
Unplug either connector at the distributor and the engine won't run.
So I want to start from scratch with the timing. Timing light says im at 45* at idle
That is way off. As they pointed out above, disconnect the EST bypass wire, then;
* loosen the distributor, start the engine and bring the timing to 12* BTDC by hand.
* tighten the distributor and verify the timing didn't move. If it didn't, plug the EST back in.
* go into your latest bin and set Initial SA to 12*, and your Idle State to 24*.
* using your LT4 Main Table, smooth the idle area to average 24*.
* Tune your VE.
Had a buddy running the light while i turned the dizzy. It starts running terribly at about 30* and dies at about 20*. Could this mean im a tooth off on the gear?
No, not a tooth off. Most likely the damper mark and timing tab are mismatched. GM used at least two different setups for the damper mark and timing tab.
It is also possible that the firing order is incorrect.
RBob.
Last edited by RBob; 03-21-2018 at 03:58 PM.
Reason: Arg, changed 'matched' to 'mismatched'
Very true, make sure the firing order is correct, and that your buddy is hooking the light to the number one cylinder in the front on the drivers side. When in doubt, pull the number one spark plug out, stick your finger in, and crank the engine over. Damn that sounded perverted lmao...
Im stumped. I made my timing mark on the timing cover myself to match the balancer at (triple checked) TDC. No way im making it to 6*BTDC. It dies at 20*. The only issue i was having is that the car wasnt responding to changes in the main SA table. It starts and idles fine with the timing light telling me 30* could my cam sprocket be a tooth off from the crank? I was 99.9% sure i put that together correctly but now im second guessing. Id like to say i could just set it by ear and leave it but i feel like i would never get the full potential out of the motor. I should be able to roast the tires off with that motor and right now all i get is a chirp.
Mark the number one spark plug location on the base of the distributor, and remove the distributor cap. Pull the number one spark plug wire from the cylinder head and remove the spark plug. Stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank the engine over by hand. When you hear and feel pressure build up, you're on the compression stroke. Look down at the balancer and slowly bring it to "0". Once at "0" confirm the location of the rotor in the distributor, and that it is facing towards the mark you made on the base of the distributor. If it's not, then loosen the distributor and point it towards it, then clamp it down. However if it is facing the correct spot, then check your balancer and make sure it didn't slip causing the mark to be in the wrong spot on the balancer...
02-28-2018, 02:58 PM
