DIY PROM Do It Yourself PROM chip burning help. No PROM begging. No PROMs for sale. No commercial exchange. Not a referral service.

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Old Feb 20, 2002 | 10:05 AM
  #1  
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From: A thorn in a few people's sides
Engine: 2 mice and a cat
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Hi all,
I would like to first say I think there is a ton of knowledge here and it makes for great reading. With that being said I have really started to log my cars new setup and have determined the following. I will state the problems and then state how I am going to attack it through programming. Hopefully when I am done this will serve to help not only me, but others. I have sent the logs to Yahoo breifcase were you all should be able to view them. I tried to lable them so they would be easy to identify the changes I have made thus far. I am fairly new to this "indepth"programming and would appreciate any help you might be able to provide. With many thanks.
Ok let get started.

1. I noticed after the injectors were installed and my vacuum leak was fixed that I was running universally rich. From my readings I determined I should first get the FP set at around 39-40 psi. And change the injector constant to ~26lbs/hr for the #24 SVOs. When I did this I saw some improvement. I ran out of time to burn another with a higher constant. I also noticed that my TPIS AFPR will not allow me to get much below 39 psi. It seems to be out of adjustment? From what I understand from reading here I should try to make universal adjustments with the injector constants till I get faily close to 128 BLM. Then focus on specific areas of concern. Yeah or Naay?

2. The next item I noticed is that with the stock ARAP bin I am running WAY too much timing. With the base timing set at 7* I am reaching up to 47* of timing, hence I am seeing quite a bit of knock. I am not really sure how to systematically change the RPM vs Load vs Main Spark Adv. From what I have read, I have gathered that without an EGR, ect I probably do not want to be running much more than 35* of timing. What I am not sure on is are they talking about Total timing or this main spark advance table? Once I have a pretty good handle on the BLMs I want to start tuning for spark. Any comments on this would greatly be appreciated.

One last bit of information which you may need to know is that my car is an A4 and has 3:07 rear gears. If you need any more information I would be happy to provide more. The complete logs can be had at the following site:


http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/ski_dwn_it

I should also add that it takes a bit of time to bring up the information. Some of it is pretty large, but its worth the way! Thanks all.

Last edited by ski_dwn_it; Feb 21, 2002 at 08:34 AM.
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Old Feb 21, 2002 | 08:34 AM
  #2  
ski_dwn_it's Avatar
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From: A thorn in a few people's sides
Engine: 2 mice and a cat
I find it hard to believe that no one has any ideas for me.
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Old Feb 21, 2002 | 09:08 AM
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From: In reality
Car: An Ol Buick
Engine: Vsick
Transmission: Janis Tranny Yank Converter
Originally posted by ski_dwn_it
I find it hard to believe that no one has any ideas for me.
Believe it or not some folks don't visit here more then once a day.

Yes, if the cal is way off you need to start with the injector constant.
The ARAP is a very aggressive timing chip
There is a max set in the code for how much timing the ecm can actually do, so seeing 55d doesn't mean the engine is seeing that. ie the small and large cap distributors have different design limits.
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Old Feb 21, 2002 | 05:43 PM
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From: A thorn in a few people's sides
Engine: 2 mice and a cat
Thanks grumpy. I just came in from doing some more testing. I increased the Injector constant to 28 lbs/hr and It started to come back to 128. The cable that I made was acting up and finally quite receiving data therefor I could not continue with the testing. Tomorrow I will have an electrician that works for me fix it up. I hate soldering stuff. I am begining to think that Summit might have sent me #30 lb injectors! Do you think that is possible? I am going to get the #s off the box and call them tonight. Also, what else could be causing the rich setting if it is not that? I still only have the pressure set at 40 psi. I would have thought it should have started leaning things out quite a bit. I guess what I am saying is there anything that could be giving me false BLM reading. Actually now that I think about it, what does the blm come from. Kind of a vague question. Thanks for your help grumpy I look forward to hearing from you again. You are a wealth of information and experience.
Thanks.
-jesse
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