Does anyone know how hard it is to install a security system into our cars? I plan on doing the work myself and i dont' have much experience with this, although i did put in a new stereo system in my car. (My car has power door locks)

I don't really want to pay $150 to get this installed, although i did get the security system in a box for free.

------------------
Mods:Hooker Aerochamber 3" exhaust, gutted kitty,
March 2 piece underdrive pullies, smog pump gone,;these two made a very noticable difference.
14x4 K&N open air element filter-the best mod so far
Eibach springs with KYB's all around.
Appearance: Harwood cowl hood, Z-28 wing, painted black(7/20/00)-original color was light blue
*All these mods were made this year
Stock Options:117,000 miles on motor, 5spd, TBI, 305, T-tops
Run a best of 16.7 @85mph with traction problem. Have to try again sometime.

 

It's not too difficult. Put the control module in the area under the radio & use battery power from the radio harness to power the unit. You may run ignition power from the ECM harness on the pass side, or from the fuse block on the driver's side. There is a good place to screw a shock sensor to the body, under the radio, as well. The toughest part will probably be routing the siren & hood switch wires through the fire wall to the engine compartment. There is a hole below where the steering column goes through the fire wall & another one with a plug in it higher & more toward the driver's side fender you may use, as well (Willie's find). You will also have to run wires to the electric lock relays (if you have electric locks), one of the door pin switches, and a rear hatch pin switch. If you have all the "bells & whistles" you will have to run a wire to the parking light circuit & the horn relay circuit, too. There will also be an indicator LED to mount - the console is an easy place to mount it, and a valet switch to mount - a good place to put this is in the console glove box - there is already a hole in the front wall that was used for an analog clock time set adjustment **** in early year models.

Tim

 

One more note. If your system has a starter disable relay, put it in line with the yellow (or dark green) wire going from the ignition switch to the PRNDD21 switch on the shifter in the console (automatic), or the yellow (or dark green) wire coming from the clutch start switch under the dash (manual). With the automatic, make sure you cut the wire up stream of the point where the hatch release relay connects to the yellow wire, or the hatch relaese may not work when the ingition off. The hatch release relay coil gets its ground through the starter coil only if the PRNDD21 switch is in P or N. On a manual trans setup, the hatch relay coil gets its ground through the emergency brake switch, only when the brake is engaged, so the circuit position of the ign cutout relay is not important in this case.

Tim

 

Thanks a lot Tim!!! I'll give it my best shot.

 

Are all of the wiring instructions you just posted also compatable with Firebirds? I've got 1987 Formula 305 carb, with power windows, manual locks, and auto tranny.
Thanks...

------------------

 

The wiring should be compatible, however, I'm not sure about the "predrilled" hole in the glove box.

Tim