This 86 IROC I've bought has been nothing but problems, the person I bought it off of swapped the 305 for a 350, long story short, I had and still have a cooling problem and code 33. I've changed the t-stat, flushed the system, changed the temp sensor, fan relay, the TPS, IAC, MAFS, and my last step was the MAFS relay. When I went to the store to get the MAFS relay, there were two to choose from, and the computer said compare to original, they all look the same! So I took a guess, thinking it shouldn't cause a horrible problem, and when I hooked it up it ran fine, atleast for the first 20 minutes. While driving the car I lost all of my gauges, the fuse blew. I went and got another fuse and that blew immidately. I've gone through a ton of fuses and can't keep one in it. Everytime I turn the ignition on, it pops automatically. I've also tried every combination by taking the new relay out and putting the old one back in while resetting the computer. Can anyone help please???????:hail:

 

I had a problem like that on my '85, every time I'd put in a new fuse it would blow. After a few days of shooting wires I tracked it down to the EGR solinoid wiring, the connector was shorting out inside. Have a look at yours. Pull it off and have someone put a fuse in for the guages while you wiggle the wires in the connector.

~M~

 

Thanks, I'll repost the result...

 

I tried the EGR wires, plus I've taken the cluster out and it still blows a fuse. On top of that, I have the computer out because I'm changing the EPROM chip, and it still blows. Could I have gotten the wrong relay for either the MAF burn off or the fuel pump? That's the only thing I changed along with taking the manifold off and reinstalling it after a port job, but I thought I made sure everything was hooked up. Is there anything I could have screwed up there to make this happen? Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks

 

I am having the same problem. Not having guages surely does suck. I don't know where to begin looking for the problem. I've gone through 45 fuses..I can't turn the headlights on because the buzzer goes off for ever while I'm driving. So very annoying..all help is appreciated.

 

I finally figured it out, I disconnected the two air valve connectors on the air pump and changed the coil, and nomore fuse problems.

 

I take that back, still blowing a fuse and still tracking it down.

 

Ok, so it was good for a bit after you did those things? If so, you just have to figure out what you might have moved while in those areas, chances are it is something there.

~M~

 

I don't want to insult anyone, but have you checked to ensure there's no shorting in the connectors that you had to disconnect/connect when you replaced the MAFS relay?

 

Some of the wires have been tugged on before me, does anyone know whe I might be able to get new connectors? I haven't put a volt meter on it to check it though.

 

Others have said that Pep Boys have some of the connectors.
If you can get the fuse to not blow right away, then go out and wiggle the wires you should see/hear a spark when it shorts, just before the fuse blows.

~M~

 

Well, I went out, disconnected the EGR solenoid. But the fuse still blew. Guess I wasn't lucky enough to have that problem.

Guess I'll have to track some other ghosts.